Well, I thought I was dancin'...

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64ragtop

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...'til someone walked on my hands! I thought the AZDart was just about ready for inspection, but the battery wouldn't hold a charge, so I bought a new one and THEN found why the battery was discharging. With the light switch OFF, the taillights and license light were staying on. I spent a bunch of time with my FSM and decided the problem had to be the headlight switch. Replaced it. While "in the neighborhood" the 1157 tail/signal/stop lamps and the license plate bulb were changed, all sockets were cleaned, plugs at the H/L switch and rear body connector were cleaned and greased. That should do it, right?

Well, sorta. Now, the license light goes off with the headlight switch but the rear turn signals stay lit with the H/L switch OFF.
But wait, it gets better. I pulled the sockets out of the body, but the signal filaments were still on. The only way that can happen is the bulbs are getting backfed and grounded via the taillight wire, right?? Turn signal switch??

With the lights on, the taillights, license light and turn signals work fine but the signal filaments stay lit with the H/L switch off even with the sockets ungrounded. It got dark, and I know enough to quit when tired and confused. Pulled the 1157s and
called it a day!

Help!

BC
 
Your........brake.........light.........switch........is........stuck...........on.

With the sockets hanging out of the body, the current comes through the stop / turn filaments and "is looking" for a ground return. With the HL switch off, you have the tail lights UN powered. I believe they find a ground up through the park light filaments to ground.

Only other possibility I can think of is if the harness contains a trunk lamp circuit and the harness is pinched or "welded" causing a cross connection in the harness.
 
Thanks for the response, 67. The stop light switch is easy enough to check but I don't think those lights are on. I didn't check the parking light sockets, though I did smack the valence panel to get the left front turn signal to blink. (Hmmm??) The car is really in amazingly good shape, just "rode hard and put up wet". As so often happens, lack of maintenance of lamp sockets and grounds and such is evident. That's why I worked over the taillights - didn't think about the parking lights 'cause they're at the other end of the car. Seems like getting that TS to blink by smacking the valence panel should have been a clue, but when I focus on something I often "can't see the forest for the trees".

Tomorrow will be a new day (well, actually later today will be a new day). It's past my bedtime.

BC
 
67Dart2731970313866 said:
Your........brake.........light.........switch........is........stuck...........on.....

Nailed it in ONE, good sir! Thank you very much!! The switch was indeed gummed up, but cleaned and lubed with silicone lube that dries non-sticky now.

The trick NOW is getting the bracket to fit the support piece. It's located by a tang and a screw to lock in the adjustment. Unfortunately, those items are about 1/8" too close together and both will not go into their respective holes at the same time. Looks like a job for Mr. Dremel!

Tomorrow!

BC
 
Very good. Some of the modern replacement switches are adjustable with two nuts and a threaded switch shaft, which can make things easier.
 
Indeed it might, but this looks like an oldie. I'm just wondering if it's the right switch - maybe a Duster or some other model?? Hard to imagine Ma Mopar making two different switches that differ by so little. TODAY's accountants would not stand for it!

BC
 
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