pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Wondering how much to allow for fabric in this area. Any trucks or insight is greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
Jim
Thanks.
Jim
Well trim
- Thread starter pyrojim
- Start date
-
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
here's a trick I used to layout the well liner and top.
I put the trim on and penciled around the bottom edge of the trim, then put blue masking tape right at the edge of the pencil make to make sure I didn't spread the glue over an exposed part(as in paint, it's a bear to get off). that's the lowest you can go. then see where you have to glue it onto the wheel well (I temp make a double sided tape sticky on the flat tops of the wheel wells to hold the liner into place) and leave it on a while. you can to form it to the shape of the well.
then you give the well liner as much room,straightening and aligning it before permanently gluing it to the wheel wells and sides. The well liner is held in place with landau vinyl top glue.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Lol, when I got the car, the guy I got it from welded in quarter patches and distorted the metal. Body guy us working in getting it straight. I was wondering what I should watch out for before it's painted as far as top installation, trim, etc.
I'm beginning to like the $78.00
Thanks Dvert!
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
your welcome.
anyway is your car a GT? if so then I'd test fit your top trim before you do much more body work. looks like they filled in a few or most of the trim holes. that area is critical (darn water leaks and rust.)for the trim to fit correctly. also drill your holes first before paint! it looks like a lot of them are filled in if it's a gt car. It's slightly different of it's not a gt car but you still need the rear trim tested for fit. here's mine as a gt car for holes
the fit did need to be adjusted even on a non rusted area of the car (one of the FEW places)
View attachment DSCF3045.JPG
and here's some of the holes. use the under piece as a minor guide and the SS trim top piece as a major guide. Under piece uses every OTHER hole and the SS trim uses the remaining. I cheated and marked mine where the SS trim screws went through and then located the underlying tack strip
View attachment DSCF3653.JPG
with the stainless removed for info.
View attachment tackstrip small with want.jpg
working on aligning my well liner to the car.
View attachment WP_20130414_011.jpg
you can see how it is on the original setup using spaced screws.
View attachment tackstrip small1.jpg
WildCat
Well-Known Member
All convertibles the minimum trim level is the GT
My car was in very good condition in this area and I had it installed by a very good talented installer.
My car was in very good condition in this area and I had it installed by a very good talented installer.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Thanks Kurt.
It is a gt, but I think he may have used 270 quarters to patch it. And, I don't think the patch panels were set just right when welded because the trim doesn't see to fit as snug as it should do he is humoring it. I guess I'll go see convertible top guy and get strips of material that lies under it. My concern is, if the material sits only under the top edge of the trim, it won't sit right coming around the corner. I'm going to print this and give it to body guy. Man there's a lot if brite work on this car !
Thanks again!
It is a gt, but I think he may have used 270 quarters to patch it. And, I don't think the patch panels were set just right when welded because the trim doesn't see to fit as snug as it should do he is humoring it. I guess I'll go see convertible top guy and get strips of material that lies under it. My concern is, if the material sits only under the top edge of the trim, it won't sit right coming around the corner. I'm going to print this and give it to body guy. Man there's a lot if brite work on this car !
Thanks again!
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Jim. it doesn't just sit under the top edge it's help in by the bottom pieces, AKA tack strips (not really tack strips in this case like some cars have and ours do in the rear bow.) AND glue for the well liner.
it get's glued on the edge under the tack strips and on the flats of the wheel wells. that way it stays in a decent shape and doesn't get all crumpled and wore.
on the inside of the well there are 3 (on mine anyway ) holes that are the NOT convertible header pieces in the picture (bottom 2 flat pieces that go after the well is on and then it's put on as a piece that holds the well in position
View attachment !!!!misc pieces1.jpg
View attachment well liner333.jpg
here's how I have mine put on to align it, not an elegant solution but it works if the wife doesn't find out about her stuff being hijacked
also you can see the pre-fit holes drilled to align the trim to the car.
if your car has quarters from a different car then look to the inside metal supports(for the hole locations) and drill through from the back side to the front to get factory locations. I had to do that with my dutchnmans panel since it came from a 4 door donor.
View attachment 0128131545.jpg
that piece (3 of them that go under your trim.) you do have and it holds the top and the well on and down.
View attachment tackstrip small.jpg
you can see the tack strip starting to be set up to hold down the well (it's not glued yet. the Well get's glued but the top does not.)
View attachment well liner setup.jpg
and then your's, that's how I know you have them. (they ARE upside down in this picture) the edges go UP and the screws sit in the channel.
View attachment !!!3holes.jpg
a little help in locating the holes. and metal piece location in picture 2
View attachment !!!3holes111.jpg
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Hey Kurt.
When you do the body work and mock up the trim, are all the trim pieces flush?? tight fit?? or do you have to leave allowances for the fabric under the trim. I just want to make sure it is correct before it gets painted and it's getting close.
Thanks.
Jim
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Hi Jim.
When I mock up for the top and well setup I used a layer of blue painters tape on the bottom edge of the trim to mark my lowest position that the top cloth and well could/should be at and hidden from view.
when I test fit the trim pieces they were flush and tight to the body. the only loose part was at the rear pot metal corners, by about 1/16" after the trim was screwed down. there really is a lot of adjustment room (1/4") in the convertible trim area if you need to tweak it "just prefect".
remember you only going to have 2 layers of material between the trim and body, so you can use strips of tape to simulate that thickness if you want. I did use slightly longer boot snap screws than stock (don't scrimp here get Good stainless steel ones from a local convertible top place, not china imports) and ground the tips off to make them the same length. that was just me and worrying about snagging the well liner. Then I realized that after I glue the bottom of the well liner to the wheel well tops and added the side strip of metal to locate it , the well wasn't going to snag anywhere :banghead:
-
