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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Ok, so today i had some off time from work, and this 1976 360 short block i got off my junkyard buddy who had it in storage. Paid $150 for it. I start dissassembly everythings going ok. First thing i find, is a flexplate bolt tack welded to the flexplate. I cut the tack welds, the bolt falls out. Threads are gone, I get to #6 rod. No bearing at all in it, crank is toast, so is #6 rod. I'm thinking no big deal, i will see if he can hook me up with another crank, and a replacement rod. No biggie. The last thing that happened, is upon removal of the main caps, the #1 main cap sides that press fit into the block, one side broke into 2 pieces upon pulling the cap off. (And yes i used a plastic mallet to take it apart) I am not putting another main cap on it and getting it align bored. First off nobody in my town has the equipment to do this, and the cost on top of it. The further into this engine i went, the worse it got.

I need to call him, and see if he will make good on this one. I know when something like this is assembled, you cant tell if theres anything wrong with it. Just a wasted day.

Matt
 
A 30 year old engine for $150 is a crap shoot.
You knew that I'm sure. .....you lost this one.

Pics of carnage! !!!!!!
 
I've felt this before after buying a 100$ 360 from a guy at mopar nationals. Let's just say it had rod soup in the oil pan... Sorry to hear about this Matt, hopefully your friend makes it straight!
 
Yeah, if he can hook me up with a bare block with caps, a useable crank, and 1 rod that would be great. I dont want to dissassemble another short block, but will if need be.
 
Update. Went to talk to my junkyard buddy yesterday. He was on vacation for a week prior. Had parts in the trunk of my car. I told him it got worse and worse the further i got into i. We actually laughed at everything that was messed up. But then he said no problem, i got another short block you can have. He just said bring the bare block and caps back. He races oval short track , and said he would put 4 bolt mains on it and get align bored for circle track racing. So i still got to pick up short block #2 and do a teardown. Hopefully this ones better.

Matt
 
I keep having to remind myself, this ia 2015 !!!! not 1995 or 2000. back then, finding a good ot decent running used S B or B B was EASY!!!!! and they were all cheap. NOW, all these engines are getting OLD!!!!!!! much more of struggle to find a good running old Mopar anything!!!!!!!
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ok, so today i had some off time from work, and this 1976 360 short block i got off my junkyard buddy who had it in storage. Paid $150 for it. I start dissassembly everythings going ok. First thing i find, is a flexplate bolt tack welded to the flexplate. I cut the tack welds, the bolt falls out. Threads are gone, I get to #6 rod. No bearing at all in it, crank is toast, so is #6 rod. I'm thinking no big deal, i will see if he can hook me up with another crank, and a replacement rod. No biggie. The last thing that happened, is upon removal of the main caps, the #1 main cap sides that press fit into the block, one side broke into 2 pieces upon pulling the cap off. (And yes i used a plastic mallet to take it apart) I am not putting another main cap on it and getting it align bored. First off nobody in my town has the equipment to do this, and the cost on top of it. The further into this engine i went, the worse it got.

I need to call him, and see if he will make good on this one. I know when something like this is assembled, you cant tell if theres anything wrong with it. Just a wasted day.

Matt
Click to expand...

anytime you buy a used engine, especially private party, it should always be bought with a core mindset. Not the sellers fault if he never had the engine apart and there is an unknown problem. Sucks, been there, done that.
 
Been thru it myself. Bought a "untouched" 360 from a buddy. Turned out to be a wasted, already .040 over and the crank turned .030... Had some nice .020 pistons I was going to use. He gave me half the money back, but its just sitting as a paper weight.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
anytime you buy a used engine, especially private party, it should always be bought with a core mindset. Not the sellers fault if he never had the engine apart and there is an unknown problem. Sucks, been there, done that.
Click to expand...

My intent was buying it as a rebuildable core. Never said it was the sellers fault either. I believe my original post stated that. The problem with the core itself, was that there wasnt anything salvagable even the block.

I take that back. The block would be salvagable if i wanted to pay the truck freight to have it shipped off to get a new main cap for it and pay for machining to have it align bored. Its not worth it for a mild street 360. Btw the bores measured out at 4.000" at the top block was never bored out.

He agreed, said bring the bare block and main caps back, and he would give me another short block for round #2. Hoping this ones a winner.

Matt
 
From how the bearing looked on the rear main cap, we both think somebody put a 318 trans and torque convertor on it. Severe out of balance condition. The hammering from this may have damaged the #1 main cap. Who knows.
 
Good luck. Even the cheapest cores I have ever bought from a salvage yard always came with the standard "it's a good core" warranty. Nuthin wrong with expecting that.
 
Yup. Time for a Magnum swap. Their getting old too, but they are better built.
 
I'd do a Magnum swap or a modern Hemi swap, but No LS swap. Never !!!!!!
 

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Well i picked up and dissassembled 360 number 2 today. Looks like we got a winner!!!! 1978 date coded block, std bore. Crank even looks like it may only need to be polished. I know its gonna need a .030" overbore.

My junkyard buddy gave me a complete 360 with motor mounts and truck crossmember hanging off it, and said just bring back the heads, oil pan , and any other pieces you arent going to use.

Now i just have to knock out the core plugs, all the oil gallery plugs, cam bearings, and give this thing a good power washing, gun brushing, blow it off with compressed air, and get it to the machine shop.

Woo Hoo i finally got my 360. Im doin the happy dance.
Matt
 
barbee6043 said:
i keep having to remind myself, this ia 2015 !!!! Not 1995 or 2000. Back then, finding a good ot decent running used s b or b b was easy!!!!! And they were all cheap. Now, all these engines are getting old!!!!!!! Much more of struggle to find a good running old mopar anything!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

x2..
 
moparmat2000 said:
Well i picked up and dissassembled 360 number 2 today. Looks like we got a winner!!!! 1978 date coded block, std bore. Crank even looks like it may only need to be polished. I know its gonna need a .030" overbore.

My junkyard buddy gave me a complete 360 with motor mounts and truck crossmember hanging off it, and said just bring back the heads, oil pan , and any other pieces you arent going to use.

Now i just have to knock out the core plugs, all the oil gallery plugs, cam bearings, and give this thing a good power washing, gun brushing, blow it off with compressed air, and get it to the machine shop.

Woo Hoo i finally got my 360. Im doin the happy dance.
Matt
Click to expand...

Nice that's cool you have a good friend you're working with. I realize now I was pretty lucky when I bought my 360 core, got it from a guy off Craigslist for $100 and once I got it to the machine shop it turned out to already have a .060" overbore (need to magnaflux next time it's apart, got my fingers crossed it's not paper thin) AND had the decks shaved down to "blueprint" specs; only needed a fresh hone and the crank turned .010/.010". You got a thread going with your build plans?

I +1 the Magnum cores if I did this again I would just grab one out of a truck/van. Better manufacturing quality all around and usually have near-perfect bores thanks to the EFI. Only downside is the lack of oiling passages for running LA-style shaft rockers and 1-in-10 chance the heads aren't cracked.
 
I have a 5.9 magnum that I just got a smokin deal on, 50 bucks except....the last cylinder bore on the passenger side has mega wear,...like it's at 4.026 just at the top of the bore and favoring the outside of the block . the next bore in line is not as bad but is bad in comparison to the rest. dont know what could have caused the excess engine wear just in those 2 cylinders, but im hoping that .040 will save it. I think .040 should be OK. Also on the side of the block it says Hencho en Mexico. Im assuming that is pretty common.
 
omahamoparguy said:
I have a 5.9 magnum that I just got a smokin deal on, 50 bucks except....the last cylinder bore on the passenger side has mega wear,...like it's at 4.026 just at the top of the bore and favoring the outside of the block . the next bore in line is not as bad but is bad in comparison to the rest. dont know what could have caused the excess engine wear just in those 2 cylinders, but im hoping that .040 will save it. I think .040 should be OK. Also on the side of the block it says Hencho en Mexico. Im assuming that is pretty common.
Click to expand...

Leaky intake plenum gasket letting oil in and causing detonation perhaps...? Really common on these
 
younggun2.0 said:
Could be worse! This I the lifter valley on the 400 block I recently picked up

Click to expand...

? Orientation of cracks? (seems I remember this photo from another thread ???)
I.e,
Right Bank, Left Bank, forward Block half (from #3 cam journal) or rearward ?
 
zac_F71 said:
I'd start over with a 5.9 magnum that you can hear run before the guy pulls it out..
Click to expand...

Heres the thing, i wanted it to appear as if it was a 273 in my 67 cuda. I am going the sleeper / resto looking route, orherwise i would have gone 360 magnum and been done with it.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Nice that's cool you have a good friend you're working with. I realize now I was pretty lucky when I bought my 360 core, got it from a guy off Craigslist for $100 and once I got it to the machine shop it turned out to already have a .060" overbore (need to magnaflux next time it's apart, got my fingers crossed it's not paper thin) AND had the decks shaved down to "blueprint" specs; only needed a fresh hone and the crank turned .010/.010". You got a thread going with your build plans?

I +1 the Magnum cores if I did this again I would just grab one out of a truck/van. Better manufacturing quality all around and usually have near-perfect bores thanks to the EFI. Only downside is the lack of oiling passages for running LA-style shaft rockers and 1-in-10 chance the heads aren't cracked.
Click to expand...

Hi Mopekid,

Thanks for the kudos on this. Seems my junkyard buddy has a cinderblock shed full of mopar engines , trannys, and parts. To him the second 360 was no big deal. He just wanted to make sure i got what i payed for which was in essence a useable crank, rods, and block. I will be talking to my machinest in cost to shot peen , magnaflux, straightness check, put rod bolts in and resize. I also have the set of rods from 360 #1 of course rod #6 is wiped out, and it damaged #5 in the process. At the very least i have a few spares in case one of the 8 in this new engine doesnt pass inspection.

Btw magnafluxing is not for checking thickness. The way your post reads i am assuming this is what your thinking. Sonic checking is for checking block thickness in the bores. Magnafluxing or magnetic particle inspection is for checking for cracks and deformities in ferrous metal parts that may not be open to the surface, and are undetectable by a visual inspection.

Its actually pretty cool to watch. We do this at my work quite a bit. If you are interested, feel free to PM me and i can tell you a bit more about how this process works.

Matt
 
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