What are all these holes for?

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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So I just got my new RPM Intake and was going to install it and I have two questions. First, I am assume I need to remove the pens on the front and back of the block to get it to sit flat correct? Second, I noticed an extra hole in the front of the intake. There is the temp sensor, hose hole, thrermostat housing, and throttle spring mount hole, but then there is an extra one at the front. Is this for an electric fan and I should just plug it or am I missing something. Then there is another extra hole back in the back left. I can't think of anything to go in this hole so should i plug it too? I need help asap because I am hoping to have it all finished tomorow.
 
take the roll pins out from the front and rear. the coil mounts to the passenger rear holes. there is a vacuum hole on the rear right near carb. extra holes near front - plug. I think extra emissions.
 
On my old Torker 340 intake there was a plug on the back of the carb. There was no vacume line near the back of the intake. So should I plug the one on the back?
 
Also take a good GOOD look at the front/ rear mating surface, especially the front. Some manifolds "overhang" in such a way that they really don't seal. I NEVER use the front/ rear gaskets, I instead get everything "ready," lay a fairly large bead of (your choice color) I use black RTV, and then set the manifold down. Waste not time snugging the bolts down, and then inspect the "under" edges of the front area with a mirror, then take a towel/ your finger and smooth out the bead of RTV. Don't fire the engine for 24 hours if you can afford the time.
 
Some of the holes are for a vacuum source,the others are for heater hoses and temp senders.
Any of the holes you don't use,need to be plugged. I like to plug them with Allen head plugs,purchased at the parts house. Seal them with Permatex high heat thread sealant.
 
I figured I would just plug up the ones I was not using I just wanted to make sure I was not missing something. Yea I dont plan on using the cork gaskets for the front and rear seals. They were on when I took the old Torker off and were all dry and cracked. So I just pull the pens and put down the RTV and let it set for a while then put the intake on and bolt it down or should i put it on and bolt it down right after I lay the bead of RTV. I don't plan on driving it for a couple days after I put the intake on btw. Although I do need to change the Tie rods and ball joints on my truck in a few days so the dart will be on daily drive duty next week.
 
Do you have the instalation manual for your RPM ?
If not,look it up online. It will tell you everything you need to know about installing your new intake. Everything from what intake manifold gaskets to use,to proper torque and torque sequence.Follow it step by step,and you'll be a happy camper.
 
Yea I have it. It says nothing about the extra holes or the pens on the block ends. This is my first intake swap so I am having a local mopar guy swing by tomorow and give me a hand on putting it all on just to make sure
I do it right. I made about 6 phone calls tonight when I was taking it off. It always helps to have friends who are old timers.
 
Ok..Make sure the dowel pins are removed. Vise grips will pull them.
And follow the rest of the instructions. Make sure you use a healthy bead 1/4" of RTV on the ends. That's usually where the intake will leak. Follow their use of gasgacinch for the
Intake manifold gaskets.
Good luck !
 
Also pay attention to your valve covers going back on. I had aftermarket that fit fine with a stock intake and had to be notched along the outside flange area because they hit on the new RPM airgap I installed. I'm sure it's different for every install but just wanted to let you know. Good Luck
 
Do not remove the pins in the block. they are not drilled in your new intake so it can be port aligned correctly and still have the pins to hold the center of the gasket and the intake in place while torquing it. If you need to no how to do this I will explain. But use the pins and align your ports. Veery important for max performance and seal of the center of the ports. Steve
 
The dowel pins on each end of the block are to hold the 2 end gaskets in place.
He is not using the end gaskets,so they need to be removed. Otherwise the intake will not fit flat on the motor.
 
I have to agree with the general concensus.
Pull the pins, seal with RTV, get it on as quickly as you can, and make sure the valve covers clear the intake so the gaskets can seal.
I hate leaks and seeps so this is the way I have always done it.

It helps to set the manifold on dry first to get an idea of how thick to make the front and rear beads of silicone.
 
Johnny Dart said:
The dowel pins on each end of the block are to hold the 2 end gaskets in place.
He is not using the end gaskets,so they need to be removed. Otherwise the intake will not fit flat on the motor.
Click to expand...


My aftermarket intake has the pin holes in it.
 
Bad Sport said:
Ok, gotcha, they aren't drilled for them?
Click to expand...

No Sir...Most people don't use the end gaskets anyways.
Edelbrock specificly tells you to throw them in the trash,and use RTV.
What intake do you have ?
 
Johnny Dart said:
The dowel pins on each end of the block are to hold the 2 end gaskets in place.
He is not using the end gaskets,so they need to be removed. Otherwise the intake will not fit flat on the motor.
Click to expand...

The reason you leave the pins in is to align the intake. The reason the holes are not in the intake is it needs to have them drilled after you align the intake. There is a simple procedure to do this. But if you don't believe what I am telling you check this

Set the intake on the motor and see how far you can slide it front and rear without the pins with all the bolts in loose. Now turn the intake upside down and measure the thickness of the web between the two runners. Almost the same as the movement isn't it?? The web in the head and the web in the intake need to be aligned. and these pins insure it stays there during bolt torque. Did you ever think that this could be the reason why some run good and some don't. And maybe some just get lucky.

Just trying to help ya. But I know you have it covered. Steve
 
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