what cam for my build

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mcat

mcat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
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Location
cincinnati ohio 45251
2006 5.7 shortblock
2010 5.7 heads and intake
i have new 6.1 springs and pushrods
727 trans.
2800 stall converter
3.73 gear
3000lbs 1968 A-body
mega squirt management
professional tuner
stainless works block hugger 13/4 headers
thanks
 
i'm in the same boat you are. With the exception I haven't bought pushrods or springs and I will also have pistons with valve reliefs.

I've read a lot about the srt max camshaft by inertia motorsports I believe. They make around 440ish wheel hp in a lx based car with a 6.1. I was thinking about having a cam custom spec'd for me.
 
oldschoolmuscle said:
i'm in the same boat you are. With the exception I haven't bought pushrods or springs and I will also have pistons with valve reliefs.

I've read a lot about the srt max camshaft by inertia motorsports I believe. They make around 440ish wheel hp in a lx based car with a 6.1. I was thinking about having a cam custom spec'd for me.
Click to expand...

Not having a "dig" at you but Im tired of reading about this BS RWHP of the SRT Max...

So lets examine this -

440 RWHP is 530 engine HP if we assume 17% drivetrain losses (which is pretty generous - its probably closer to 20% which would make it 550 engine hp)

So if we take the 540hp and subtract the factory hp rating of 425... The difference is 115 engine HP.


Are we happy to believe that just a mild cam will make 115 Engine HP difference??? . :wack:

Here's a hint - most " cam only" upgrades on modern V8 motors reveal around 40. -50 engine HP improvement.....depending on the exhaust and tune.

There's way too much chassis dyno horse **** spoken about in the Gen3 hobby - point is... A vendor can make a chassis dyno say anything they want it to...and who can argue...they have the dyno slip.....but reality is chassis dynos can be set up to make the #s .

FWIW I run an SRT MAX Plus...but i see them as a "compromise" cam and I suspect there is better out there.

Try Performance Werks Racing...they have some genuine custom grinds.

Rant Over :)
 
I agree with the Rat, why limit yourself with stock springs and .550 lift? All the SRT cams are a compromise because of either stock springs or pistons. Im coming out of the gate with a .600 lift 247/255 at .050 cam I got used from Andy at PWR. I dont want any of the off the shelf "cam swap" computer friendly stuff. These engines can rip some serious pavement with a REAL camshaft.
 
Rat Patrol said:
Not having a "dig" at you but Im tired of reading about this BS RWHP of the SRT Max...

So lets examine this -

440 RWHP is 530 engine HP if we assume 17% drivetrain losses (which is pretty generous - its probably closer to 20% which would make it 550 engine hp)

So if we take the 540hp and subtract the factory hp rating of 425... The difference is 115 engine HP.


Are we happy to believe that just a mild cam will make 115 Engine HP difference??? . :wack:

Here's a hint - most " cam only" upgrades on modern V8 motors reveal around 40. -50 engine HP improvement.....depending on the exhaust and tune.

There's way too much chassis dyno horse **** spoken about in the Gen3 hobby - point is... A vendor can make a chassis dyno say anything they want it to...and who can argue...they have the dyno slip.....but reality is chassis dynos can be set up to make the #s .

FWIW I run an SRT MAX Plus...but i see them as a "compromise" cam and I suspect there is better out there.

Try Performance Werks Racing...they have some genuine custom grinds.

Rant Over :)
Click to expand...

I don't get to worked up about dyno numbers or factory power ratings. when a 4400 pound car can trap a 108 mph at the track the engine is making some power. Not many people want to fly cut stock pistons, so your stuck with a cam roughly the size of the srt max cam. He said he was using mega squirt, so no need for a "computer friendly cam" I'd also venture to say most guys aren't willing to replace valve springs every 10k miles. So yet again your stuck with a mild cam. He doesn't have a 4000 plus convertor. I do agree with you saying why use stock valve springs on a aftermarket cam, along with stock pushrods.

I mean you see where I am going with this. I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest, just a friendly debate. I'm all for big cams, with a lot of gear and stall, but everyone has a budget and its no fun breaking stuff all the time. 8)
 
Those SRTmax cams are garbage. They are a good STOCK replacement...thats it. They quote huge numbers on the web. I have literally dyno'd and tuned 40 of em. Not one has ever made 400 on my dyno.

This cam picks up 50-60 at the tires and drive great. Idles great. Makes gobs of torque from idle on. Doesnt need a converter, doesnt need big ported heads.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/285998-6-1-Sleeper-cam-in-an-auto
 
oldschoolmuscle said:
I don't get to worked up about dyno numbers or factory power ratings. when a 4400 pound car can trap a 108 mph at the track the engine is making some power. Not many people want to fly cut stock pistons, so your stuck with a cam roughly the size of the srt max cam. He said he was using mega squirt, so no need for a "computer friendly cam" I'd also venture to say most guys aren't willing to replace valve springs every 10k miles. So yet again your stuck with a mild cam. He doesn't have a 4000 plus convertor. I do agree with you saying why use stock valve springs on a aftermarket cam, along with stock pushrods.

I mean you see where I am going with this. I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest, just a friendly debate. I'm all for big cams, with a lot of gear and stall, but everyone has a budget and its no fun breaking stuff all the time. 8)
Click to expand...


I dont want a pissing contest either - but your responses are aimed at what 72BBSwinger wrote....not what I wrote.

My only comment is that a lot of cam vendors for Gen3 cams quote BS power figures.....A point LXMODGUY agrees with...because he owns acchassis dyno.
 
lxmodguy said:
Those SRTmax cams are garbage. They are a good STOCK replacement...thats it. They quote huge numbers on the web. I have literally dyno'd and tuned 40 of em. Not one has ever made 400 on my dyno.

This cam picks up 50-60 at the tires and drive great. Idles great. Makes gobs of torque from idle on. Doesnt need a converter, doesnt need big ported heads.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/285998-6-1-Sleeper-cam-in-an-auto
Click to expand...

Ill say it now...you were right mate.

Theres nothing clever about snake oiling a Crower grind into a retarded timing position and claiming it makes "high end hp"

My mate and I couldnt believe it when we read the cam card - it was supposed to go in on 106 and it went in at 114!!.... 8 degrees retarded!
 
oldschoolmuscle said:
I don't get to worked up about dyno numbers or factory power ratings. when a 4400 pound car can trap a 108 mph at the track the engine is making some power. Not many people want to fly cut stock pistons, so your stuck with a cam roughly the size of the srt max cam. He said he was using mega squirt, so no need for a "computer friendly cam" I'd also venture to say most guys aren't willing to replace valve springs every 10k miles. So yet again your stuck with a mild cam. He doesn't have a 4000 plus convertor. I do agree with you saying why use stock valve springs on a aftermarket cam, along with stock pushrods.

I mean you see where I am going with this. I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest, just a friendly debate. I'm all for big cams, with a lot of gear and stall, but everyone has a budget and its no fun breaking stuff all the time. 8)
Click to expand...
You basically repeated what I said, why use a computer friendly cam with an aftermarket ecu?
 
Okay, since I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a cam as well, I'll throw myself into the ring for suggestions. My setup is pretty much a stock 5.7 with TTI headers and Mod Man intake, but set up with 4 bbl throttle body and port injection (not TBI). Trans is a T56 6 speed with a steel flywheel. Engine management is a Megasquirt 2 for fuel and an MSD box for ignition. I had intentions to weekend race the car for fun, but in the end it's really turned into more of a nice fun cruiser, so I'd rather not give up too much low end (especially now that I actually have overdrive and cruise under 2k rpm on the highway).

I love the sound of the SRT Max Rumbler because it just fits the style of the car. A nice choppy idle to match the muscle car image. However, since I'm not restricted by a computer, what sort of cam and power could I get away with? I know you can get a really smooth idling docile sounding cam that's just as fast as something that can't idle worth crap, but I really just love the lope for a car like this. Besides, if I really want to go fast I have a different car for that.
 
mcat said:
2006 5.7 shortblock
2010 5.7 heads and intake
i have new 6.1 springs and pushrods
727 trans.
2800 stall converter
3.73 gear
3000lbs 1968 A-body
mega squirt management
professional tuner
stainless works block hugger 13/4 headers
thanks
Click to expand...

Something to ponder before you even think of a cam is your compression with the 08 down short block and 09+ eagle heads. From what I recall that combo yields a 12:1 ratio. Way too much for pump gas.

I don't think the 6.1 springs or push rods will work either.

The rest sounds good though. I'd contact our site sponsor the hemi swap shop (modern muscle) for advice on cam selection with your combo.

Good luck
C
 
Cevidicus said:
Something to ponder before you even think of a cam is your compression with the 08 down short block and 09+ eagle heads. From what I recall that combo yields a 12:1 ratio. Way too much for pump gas.

I don't think the 6.1 springs or push rods will work either.

The rest sounds good though. I'd contact our site sponsor the hemi swap shop (modern muscle) for advice on cam selection with your combo.

Good luck
C
Click to expand...

MM re-sell Comp grinds don't they?

Another possibility is Arrington.....or Barton Racing?
 
If you want a cam just tell me the application, what you are trying to accomplish, and I ca get you a grind to match. the vast majority of what I do is Gen3 hemi stuff. Comp grinds all our cams, we have the entire mast lobe book to choose from. Based on what you are asking for, I would grind you something like 224/228 it will come out around .580 lift and grind it on a 113 installed at 110. It will have a nice lope to it. You have no converter to worry about since you are shifting. 228 with about .600 is about all there is room for on a stock 6.1 shortblock.

Dave at Modern Muscle is awesome too. He does all my heads.
 
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