What cam to use in a 318

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I would not be surprised. Why would you want higher? If you had a Dodge D500 dump truck fully loaded with dirt and a 354 Power Giant under the hood, you sure as heck wouldn't want 10:1.
i have a 71 D300 with a 383 2bbl that started life as an upfitted camper and is feelin' her oats in the renaissance of being upfitted again as a dump truck.

that greasy mule is likely under 8:1 and does everything exactly as you'd want and all without even breaking a sweat.

if i ever have to rebuild it, damn straight she gonna stay low compression!
 
Pistons are Sealed Power H814CP they are 1.755 compression height will get you to about .050 below deck depending on your block. Most replacements are 1.720. I had a minimum cut on the deck just to get a clean surface and the rest of the compression comes from the magnum heads. I am assuming .039 compressed head gasket. Stock magnum heads flow well will support 400 HP if you run a crazy large cam like a magazine dyno build. I have to get different push rods to use those heads so regrinding the cam to slightly small base circle is not really an issue. I am starting with a mopar cam anyway which is a slightly bigger base to start with.
 
I am starting with a mopar cam anyway which is a slightly bigger base to start with.
Where did you get this information? This is something I have never heard anyone say nor have I ever read it anywhere in print.
 
Your Magnum heads have quench, correct? With 9.2:1 CR, I would choose a modern cam profile and run 87 fuel. I do not expect you to have a problem with that. As recommended, talk to Jones Cams and Oregon Cams. Have your engine information to send them. The more infirmation you fill in the better they can recommend the appropriate cam for your intended usage.
 
It's kind of considered middle ground for a street cam, above this level each step up you generally tend to start really trading bottom end power for top end power and gears stall starts to become more and more necessary. Obviously not set into stone.
Depends on the person. IMHO that is getting a bit more duration than I would want for a street 318. To me 220° @ 0.050" is about the max for a street 318. As you are aware a larger displacement tollerates or likes more duration and lift.
Personal preference and expectations vary widely.
 
Depends on the person. IMHO that is getting a bit more duration than I would want for a street 318. To me 220° @ 0.050" is about the max for a street 318. As you are aware a larger displacement tollerates or likes more duration and lift.
Personal preference and expectations vary widely.
By middle ground I meant below that is more RV type cams and above is getting more street strip type cams. It’s kind of crossover point it’s not quite rv and not street strip.
 
For street/ cruiser purposes I tend to stay in the RV cam range. Still a noticeable improvement over factory stock.
 
For a street / cruiser, in my opinion a cam with a duration of 204* / 214* at 0.050 " is a good choice. Good dual exhaust, curve kit and 3.23 gears would be good
 
Of all people you should know ...
Just say on the mild side ..
Also because cam numbers still make my head spin... I've tried and tried and tried to understand them
 
For a street / cruiser, in my opinion a cam with a duration of 204* / 214* at 0.050 " is a good choice. Good dual exhaust, curve kit and 3.23 gears would be good
On an otherwise stock spec engine, definately so. An acceptable step up would be 214°/224° @ 0.050". With that another upgrade would be rockers with .1 more ratio, especially on the intake. An appropriate 4V manifold with 650 carb and headers to make it all come together.
Exhaust a bit over 220° is not much of a problem but on the intake it does start to show up.
 
"By the numbers" the comp XE 256 almost looks like the "perfect" cam for a 318 that otherwise stock except for a 4 barrel and dual exhaust.
 
"By the numbers" the comp XE 256 almost looks like the "perfect" cam for a 318 that otherwise stock except for a 4 barrel and dual exhaust.
That is a good one. Too bad it's a Comp.
 
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"By the numbers" the comp XE 256 almost looks like the "perfect" cam for a 318 that otherwise stock except for a 4 barrel and dual exhaust.
Pretty good is correct. LSA at 110° is just slightly wide. I would order the cam with 108° LSA. If using LA heads with shaft rockers, I would get 1.6 ratio roller rockers for the intakes. 1.5 roller for the exhaust.
I would seriously consider the Chev LS valves that are 1.9" I and 1.55 E. To do this you need 8mm guides. You could use the Chev powdered metal guides or step up to bronze guides. You can use the Chev beehive springs, retainers and locks.
The Chev intake valve is about 95gm instead of the Mopar 129gm. Then the retainers and locks are slightly lighyer and the upper end of the springs is lighter. This provides better valve control. Also consider 40° exhaust seats for quicker low lift blowdown.
 
Pretty good is correct. LSA at 110° is just slightly wide. I would order the cam with 108° LSA. If using LA heads with shaft rockers, I would get 1.6 ratio roller rockers for the intakes. 1.5 roller for the exhaust.
I would seriously consider the Chev LS valves that are 1.9" I and 1.55 E. To do this you need 8mm guides. You could use the Chev powdered metal guides or step up to bronze guides. You can use the Chev beehive springs, retainers and locks.
The Chev intake valve is about 95gm instead of the Mopar 129gm. Then the retainers and locks are slightly lighyer and the upper end of the springs is lighter. This provides better valve control. Also consider 40° exhaust seats for quicker low lift blowdown.
Why more lift on the intake
 
Pretty good is correct. LSA at 110° is just slightly wide. I would order the cam with 108° LSA. If using LA heads with shaft rockers, I would get 1.6 ratio roller rockers for the intakes. 1.5 roller for the exhaust.
I would seriously consider the Chev LS valves that are 1.9" I and 1.55 E. To do this you need 8mm guides. You could use the Chev powdered metal guides or step up to bronze guides. You can use the Chev beehive springs, retainers and locks.
The Chev intake valve is about 95gm instead of the Mopar 129gm. Then the retainers and locks are slightly lighyer and the upper end of the springs is lighter. This provides better valve control. Also consider 40° exhaust seats for quicker low lift blowdown.

Well, there goes "otherwise stock".
 
I would seriously consider the Chev LS valves that are 1.9" I and 1.55 E. To do this you need 8mm guides. You could use the Chev powdered metal guides or step up to bronze guides. You can use the Chev beehive springs, retainers and locks.
I'll never understand why Mopar guys still use 3/8 valves. What's the length of those valves by the way?
 
...and once again a thread about "almost stock" 318's is now about $5,000 in head work.
 
...and once again a thread about "almost stock" 318's is now about $5,000 in head work.
Cause the cid, cr and velocity police come in and complicate what should be basic recommendations.
 
Why more lift on the intake
At the point the exhaust vavalve opens, the cylinder pressure is still 70PSI to 120PSI. That exhaust exits past the barely open exhaust valve at supersonic velocity for a fraction of a moment until the valve opens more and the pressure has bled off. This high pressure and velocity in a tuned exhaust eventually causes a negative cylinder pressure about the time the intake valve opens.
With a tuned intake there can be a slight pressure increase as the intake valve lifts off the seat. This is very minor as compared to the exhaust when considering a NA engine. Basically the best we can consider in a NA intake manifold is atmospheric oressure of 14.7 PSI. Therefore opening the intake as much as possible is generally beneficial.
As per David Vizard, the flow is pretty much area ruled until the valve lift gets to or exceeds 0.25D. At 0.25D of the valve the area of the valve head and the area of the circumference of the seat at said lift are the same. Once you get the valve open farther than 0.25D lift, the port takes over as the controlling factor instead of the seat area between the head and valve. With this a 1.9" intake valve is at 0.25D lift at 0.475". A cam that only allows 0.425" to 0.44" valve lift remains restricted in flow by the seat, not the port flow capability. With this example of intake valve diameter, a cam profile combined with a rocker ratio to give intake valve lift of 0.500" to 0.510" gets the valve out of the way to allow the port to limit the flow. Now this is not much in degrees of crank rotation or milliseconds, but does improve the engine performance noticably. You have not affected cam duration by more than a couple of degrees at 0.100" to 0.200" lift and not changed overlap at all with a higher ratio rocker, so idle quality and low speed driving are not effected.
Getting the exhaust seats cut or ground to 40° greatly aids blowdown and the strength of the exhaust pulse tuning. Using the 40° seats on the street allows you to use less exhaust timing and possibly a single pattern cam for more low speed torque, which is what low speed driving around town entails.
For the race crowd that may be ready to come unglued on my comment, yes at high lift 50° and 55° seats do provide higher flow. Another advantage in a high RPM engine is the steep valve angle allows the valve to wedge into the seat better, preventing valve bounce and thus promoting better seal.
A street engine that normally putz's around town and a race engine are two different animals for design criteria.
 
Well, there goes "otherwise stock".
Well, yes to a point. If swapping out the cam it costs no more to order what your engine really needs. The other things I propose as options. If valve to piston clearance is determined to be adequate, higher lift rockers can be installed quickly and easily provided the appropriate valve springs were installed with the cam.
The head upgrades is another minor matter that can be done down the road, possibly as a recondition is required. This narrows the costs difference, which makes the upgrades more affordable. Using readily available Chev valves, springs, retainers and locks also keeps the costs closer.
Just presenting thoughts that someone may find useful.
 
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