What coolant to use?

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tkowalchuk

tkowalchuk

70 Duster with a 440
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I am going to be replacing the radiator in my duster with an aluminum one. I live in Canada and it will be stored in a non heated garage.

I am wondering what coolant I should be using?
 
tkowalchuk said:
I am going to be replacing the radiator in my duster with an aluminum one. I live in Canada and it will be stored in a non heated garage.

I am wondering what coolant I should be using?
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There's really only one good choice with a cooling system that allows the coolant to contact air, and more so with a copper radiator that sometimes has air in the top tank.
Conventional 'green' coolant with an inorganic corossion protection.
Not Organic Acid technology (OAT)
Not 'Universal' which is Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT)
Not any of the other specialty coolants developed for the late model cooling systems.
 
Mattax said:
There's really only one good choice with a cooling system that allows the coolant to contact air, and more so with a copper radiator that sometimes has air in the top tank.
Conventional 'green' coolant with an inorganic corossion protection.
Not Organic Acid technology (OAT)
Not 'Universal' which is Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT)
Not any of the other specialty coolants developed for the late model cooling systems.
Click to expand...

Why shouldn't the OATs and HOATs be used in a system open to air?
When explaining, please keep in mind I only got a C in chemistry because my little hottie of a lab partner carried me. I still smile when I think of her. <3
 
Because they will eat everything in the system for some reason. Conventional green, and I believe you can also buy zinc sacrificial anodes to put in the system as well to help with dissimilar metal corrosion. :D
 
S'cuder said:
Why shouldn't the OATs and HOATs be used in a system open to air?
When explaining, please keep in mind I only got a C in chemistry because my little hottie of a lab partner carried me. I still smile when I think of her. <3
Click to expand...
Don't worry! LOL.
The organic inhibitors take time to build up whatever protection they create on the surfaces. Apparently that doesn't work well when some of the surfaces get exposed to air. In theory with a recovery bottle, this won't be as big of an issue. But also by the time these newer anti-corrosion packages were developed, copper and solder were not of much concern. So thats two strikes against them for older vehicles.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Because they will eat everything in the system for some reason. Conventional green, and I believe you can also buy zinc sacrificial anodes to put in the system as well to help with dissimilar metal corrosion. :D
Click to expand...


This. A sacrificial anode should be used always.
 
I should add that if the local water supply has high mineral content, use distilled water when mixing. Its cheap enough at the supermarket, I just always use it.
 
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