340inabbody
Well-Known Member
Anyone know if the 318 crank in 1970 was forged steel as opposed to cast? Was it shot peened? Any info and markings would be helpful!
Can you see the crank flange? If you can, you can still see tha parting line on the edge of the flange. Wide parting line=forged, thin parting line=cast.Thanks its still in the block and will be there until I can possibly get to see it out. I was on the understanding that all 1970 and earlier were
forged? Were
forged cranks even used in pre 70’s motors sb or bb? I read this somewhere but can’t find the original article.
I've never seen a Chrysler crank that didn't ring or hear one that made a thud, cast or forged. Must have been some really spectacular steel/nodular iron poured when they cast them.Agree cast. at a glance the cast will have thin line in it forged wide and the forged crank will ring if tapped with a blunt object like a hammer handle cast will sound like "Thud". If you search the threads there are pics of the two cranks.
It's a trained ear thing along with the marks. There are two distinct sounds maybe thud isn't accurate. But the cast is more of a "dead note' or using musical terms the forged crank will "sustain" or ring longer than a cast which wont ring long at all.I've never seen a Chrysler crank that didn't ring or hear one that made a thud, cast or forged. Must have been some really spectacular steel/nodular iron poured when they cast them.
Nodular iron is all Chrysler used for cast. Like Cleveland cranks.I've never seen a Chrysler crank that didn't ring or hear one that made a thud, cast or forged. Must have been some really spectacular steel/nodular iron poured when they cast them.
I'm still trying to figure out what makes a '66 318 automatic different than a '68 318 automatic, especially when all transmissions use the same balancer some years. It must be something real subtle that they decided didn't make enough difference to continue making different ones for different applications.
They are probably still stronger than a new off-shore China offeringI've never seen a Chrysler crank that didn't ring or hear one that made a thud, cast or forged. Must have been some really spectacular steel/nodular iron poured when they cast them.
It's a trained ear thing along with the marks. There are two distinct sounds maybe thud isn't accurate. But the cast is more of a "dead note' or using musical terms the forged crank will "sustain" or ring longer than a cast which wont ring long at all.
As far as being good steel ,it was .These cars are from a time when Amerca was truly great, steel and cars and parts were made here or in Canada across the great lakes from Detroit. This is one reason why I love these old cars...
. Interesting subject… what I would like to know is how is that resonant frequency determined and measured and how do you design a harmonic balancer to absorb that frequency.Vibration dampers will be different depending on application. There are a few factors that determine what damper is on the engine. The amount of inertia required is determined by the torsional amplitude requirement/specification. The frequency is determined by the spring rate of the crankshaft, rotating and reciprocating masses and cylinder pressure. The damper should be tuned to attenuate the resonant frequency of the crankshaft system. A undertuned damper can push the torsionals to the higher RPM range. A overturned damper will push the torsionals to the lower RPM range. Automatic and manual transmissions can use different dampers based on the above factors. Most people have no idea what that resonant frequency is once they build an engine with various components. That's why an ATI or Fluid damper should be used. These type dampers operate over a larger RPM range and are not tuned to a specific frequency. 65'