What did I hurt now?

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dartomotive

dartomotive

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Thoughts, what did I hurt now?
My 69 Dart ran great for 6 years. 10.65 to 10.80. Instead of freshening up the motor this time, I put in a new one to go upper 9s, for 10.00 index. Had the tranny rebuilt, and bought a "rebuilt converter" Turbo Action. Braced the 8 3/4.
The car gets out of the hole good, and the first shift comes quick. As soon as I shift at 6800 the shift light comes right back on again. I shift the second time into 3rd, and the light comes back on again very quickly. I hit the rev limiter at 7200, and barely made it across the 1/8 mile. Switched out the gears from 4:56 to 4:30s. Tried it again same result.
One guy told me yesterday that he never starts it in park always in neutral in cold weather. I've started in park many times, and warmed up at 2000, then burped it to 5000 a couple of times. What did I hurt now? :eek:ops:
 
Sounds like you have a bad converter. What does it stall at?
 
I believe it was 4600.
When I filled it, I filled it all the way, but I heard that was not likely it.
 
It's always good to start a torqueflite in neutral but once it fills the converter (takes 15-30 seconds) it's not an issue. Your issue is elsewhere. If it feels strong all the way through 1st gear then acts like the trans. slips in 2nd and 3rd (what your description sounds like) I'd suspect an issue in the trans, although in 1st the load is less so it would hide a converter issue a little easier.

What times did you turn with it, old and new combo?
 
10.85 at 123, last pass on old combo.
Best on new = 10.65 at 126 but it activated the rev limiter at 7200 and I got off it about 2/3 down the qtr. I tried it again, feathering the pedal to stay at or under the shift light and it ran 11.05.
 
Fishy, dead on.... To me: sounds like lack of line pressure ,or a failure on the"re-con "Turbo Action converter.....
 
dartomotive said:
10.85 at 123, last pass on old combo.
Best on new = 10.65 at 126 but it activated the rev limiter at 7200 and I got off it about 2/3 down the qtr. I tried it again, feathering the pedal to stay at or under the shift light and it ran 11.05.
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By your newer combo's best time being 2 tenths and 3 mph faster it will activate the shift light quicker. What is the 1/8th mile times and speed old vs. new combo? Maybe that'll tell more, but it sounds like the engine is running stronger. Not saying there's not a problem. Just trying to decipher things
 
I'm guessing you've got a 8" converter? At first glance, i'd say you've got too much engine for it, or a faulty converter.
 
Hi Tracy :wave:. I'm just thinking the original TC was a small diameter to get the stall speed with that combo.....And now the big power/torque is just running over it. But who knows at this point.
 
OldmanRick said:
Hi Tracy :wave:. I'm just thinking the original TC was a small diameter to get the stall speed with that combo.....And now the big power/torque is just running over it. But who knows at this point.
Click to expand...

Hey Rick :hello2:

That sounds very feasible. Since it is running faster than it was it's hard to believe the trans. would be slipping
 
It reminds me of my friends C/ED with a 7" after he went from a 302" engine to a 355". With a PG, and switching between a 4.56 & 4.10, that car rode the converter a lot more with the long stroke. He had the converter worked several times with the different combos and finally hit it dead on.

With the OP making enough power to run 9's, I have to think his converter may need a tweak or two to get it in the zone. As far as the trans, i'm clueless unless it's burnt up. I always farmed them out. You guys are way ahead of me on a possible trans issue, if that's the problem.:D
 
I'll find the slip, but the 1/8 mph was around 101 if I remember right, but I was getting out it right around then. I'm thinking that I'm getting a Dynamic converter this winter set up to the cars specifications, and having the tranny redone by a shop, since it's gotta come out anyway. I just hate fixing 2 things at once, because if works I never know which one was truly the culprit, unless we find something obvious.
 
A lot of converter companies keep records on all their units. Before you tear everything apart, i'd give T/A a call and see what input they have on your current combo.
 
The more I read it sure sounds like the converter is slipping like 67CudaFB and Rick suggested. Was the rebuilt converter you bought built for your car, or did you just buy a rebuilt converter from someone that was actually spec'd for someone else?
 
dartomotive said:
The later. A rebuilt that was actually speced for someone else.
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Ah... I bet that's the problem. On a stock or lower powered street car you can get away with not having things exactly correct but it sounds like your engine is making a lot of power. The more power they make the more critical it is for the converter to be right.
 
With the valve body removed, you could "air check the front and rear clutch" The rear clutch is also known as the forward clutch which moves the vehicle in all forward gears. The front clutch is also known as the high/reverse clutch and applies only in third gear and/or reverse. With a rubber tip air nozzle and 60 to 90 psi check the two passages in the case which "work" the front/rear clutch assemblies. If a large air loss is present the clutch seals are not sealing the piston/drum for apply. Re-build is required. An easy way to "fix" only one problem...The converter???? Too loose for your app. maybe.
 
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