What do I need to know to choose slicks for my race car?

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29x10.5 M/T….. screws suffice, but Mac Fab conversion sexy as ef!
Wheel wells stretched 1.5” and mini tubbed. Btw I can remove the slicks off the rim in the garage now which is cool. That looks like a super fun, dependable combo!

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If you don’t like the look of screws, you can just screw it on the inside of the rim or glue them on. Thats what a bunch of FAST guys do.
 
Well I pulled the trigger on these and they showed up today. Thanks for all the input and experience shared!

Cley
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Coat the inside of the new tires with a heavy coating of Dawn dish washing liquid and forget the tubes , works great on hoosiers.
My 295 60d 15`s have been holding air for about 7-8 yrs. , been so long I forgot , car hasn't moved in months , and their still holding ....This is the 3rd set of hoosiers I`ve done that to , all held air great ....jfyi
 
I didn't read the whole tread. So forgive me if this has already been stated. M/T Pro Braket /radial slicks and glue them to the wheels with Permatex gasket shellack. We go 1.20 at sixty ft with this set up. And we hardly ever have to add air to the slicks.
 
I use High Tack. Put a coat on rim and tire. 1.36-.38 60ft. Tires and rim are marked and they never move.

As long as we are on tires, coat the inside with green slime and leave the dish soap in the kitchen and the tubes on your bicycle. IMHO that is.
 
Well, I did use a metric **** ton of soap on the side walls. And I used High Tack on the bead. No tubes tor me. I guess we will see how she goes. I really appreciate all the real world advice!

Cley
 
Never screw just one side. It will make you dizzy. If it's a bracket car with your set up I would run slicks. And screw them in.
If you don’t like the look of screws, you can just screw it on the inside of the rim or glue them on. Thats what a bunch of FAST guys do.
 
My philosophy, for what little it's worth...... bead locks on a seven second quarter car. Rim screws on a nine second car. 8 second car: optional.
Glue appears to work, as well. But if it doesn't? I use screws on mine, especially if running tubes.
 
I should mention I do not use any glue, just screws.

My son in law uses rim screws on his 7 sec rear engine dragster. No glue either.
 
I am going to try glue alone. If it works, great! I always hated the thought of rim screws. If they slip, we'll, "Screw em!"

Cley
 
Camel snot is the glue used for patching, plugging tires, and sealing the rims. I have never tried it to keep my tire/wheel from slipping but it's pretty sticky stuff and dry's fast. It's made for tires so I'd think I give it a try. Keep the cap tight it will evaporate on you. It is Camel brand. Small can with a brush in it.
 
29x10.5 M/T….. screws suffice, but Mac Fab conversion sexy as ef!
Wheel wells stretched 1.5” and mini tubbed. Btw I can remove the slicks off the rim in the garage now which is cool. That looks like a super fun, dependable combo!

View attachment 1716528044Are you running a four link, ladder bars? What size rims and back spacing. When you mini tubbed it did you cut a 3 inch section out and reweld it or did you just tubbed it. Beautiful car by the way!!!!!!!
 
Ah! Makes sense! Must be a ***** to break the beads for a tire change!

Cley
I'm glad you chose the bias ply's instead of the radials, I had both sets of the same sizes M/T ET street Radials 325x65x15 on ten inch rims and another set of MT bias ply the same size on 12 inch wide rims,. The radials on a good track were .18 quicker in the 1/8 mile and almost two MPH faster also. The bad thing about the radials was once they started to spin, I had to let off to get them to rehook, NOT GOOD. The bias would start to turn a tiny bit on a bad surface, street or track,, maybe 1/16 turn to maybe 1/4 turn before starting to hook and move the car forward and up:thumbsup: I drove that car on the street as well as at the local 1/8 mile track in Madras Oregon, it had coil over rear suspension with 34 inch ladder bars with four holes on the front frame mounts, it ran the best for me in the lowest hole, I had started it in the next to the top hole, kept the pinion angle and driveshaft 2 to 3 degrees different on every change to the rear suspension. It had single externally with a dial adjustable rear shocks on it to start with on the rear, I switch them to double adjustable later and got the best 60 Ft and best reaction times with them on the car after experimenting with both the extension and compression settings, the compression settings didn't seem to affect that car, 1971 Duster with a 512 C.I. stroker 400 motor in it with a 727 foot brake tranny, a really good 8 inch T/A race converter. Best time cork up in the 1/4 mile with the air cleaner on using Oregon 91 octane clear pump swill was 9.997 at 134.7 MPH, that was at Woodburn Drag Strip in July at the Mopar race with me driving it weighing right at 3450 Lbs. on their calibrated scales. That car was not legal to go that fast, it was legal to 10.00 at or under 135.00 MPH. I wasn't legal to go that fast either, no license or SFI-5 driving suit either, that change the next year with the 1970 Cuda that ended up running in the high 8s at 150.+ MPH:p I was told I couldn't race that car their immediately after that run in the tower, the time slip person told me to go up in the tower before trying to make another run their that day, I convince them that I wouldn't allow it to run faster than 10.00 again, it had run two 10.00 flat at 134.?? MPH earlier that day during time trials, the afternoon tail wind had started to blow and that pushed it into the nines on that run:) I loved that car, it went quicker and fatser everytime I touch it to make it go faster:p
 
I'm glad you chose the bias ply's instead of the radials, I had both sets of the same sizes M/T ET street Radials 325x65x15 on ten inch rims and another set of MT bias ply the same size on 12 inch wide rims,. The radials on a good track were .18 quicker in the 1/8 mile and almost two MPH faster also. The bad thing about the radials was once they started to spin, I had to let off to get them to rehook, NOT GOOD. The bias would start to turn a tiny bit on a bad surface, street or track,, maybe 1/16 turn to maybe 1/4 turn before starting to hook and move the car forward and up:thumbsup: I drove that car on the street as well as at the local 1/8 mile track in Madras Oregon, it had coil over rear suspension with 34 inch ladder bars with four holes on the front frame mounts, it ran the best for me in the lowest hole, I had started it in the next to the top hole, kept the pinion angle and driveshaft 2 to 3 degrees different on every change to the rear suspension. It had single externally with a dial adjustable rear shocks on it to start with on the rear, I switch them to double adjustable later and got the best 60 Ft and best reaction times with them on the car after experimenting with both the extension and compression settings, the compression settings didn't seem to affect that car, 1971 Duster with a 512 C.I. stroker 400 motor in it with a 727 foot brake tranny, a really good 8 inch T/A race converter. Best time cork up in the 1/4 mile with the air cleaner on using Oregon 91 octane clear pump swill was 9.997 at 134.7 MPH, that was at Woodburn Drag Strip in July at the Mopar race with me driving it weighing right at 3450 Lbs. on their calibrated scales. That car was not legal to go that fast, it was legal to 10.00 at or under 135.00 MPH. I wasn't legal to go that fast either, no license or SFI-5 driving suit either, that change the next year with the 1970 Cuda that ended up running in the high 8s at 150.+ MPH:p I was told I couldn't race that car their immediately after that run in the tower, the time slip person told me to go up in the tower before trying to make another run their that day, I convince them that I wouldn't allow it to run faster than 10.00 again, it had run two 10.00 flat at 134.?? MPH earlier that day during time trials, the afternoon tail wind had started to blow and that pushed it into the nines on that run:) I loved that car, it went quicker and fatser everytime I touch it to make it go faster:p
325/65/15?? That's a tall tire. I wonder if they still make 'em. Do you have a photo of that combo?
 
325/65/15?? That's a tall tire. I wonder if they still make 'em. Do you have a photo of that combo?
If I do, I don't know where it is other than a picture of it at the local track doing a wheelie at Madras leaving the starting line years ago I sold that car in 2010 or 2011, CRS:BangHead:. I don't have scanner/ copy machine hood up to this new to me desk top computer yet. Maybe I'll get froggy this week and try hooking one up and try copying that picture and attach it to this post:thumbsup:
 

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