What does the white wire clip to?

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LovetheA's

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I've done some replacement of gauges on my 67 dart guage cluster and upgraded my radio but I'm at a loss. I don't remember pulling this white wire off of anything and can't figure out where it connects. Any help greatly appreciated.

Carl
 

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I'm still at a loss as to where this wire goes? Now I noticed another problem. I just connected the connections on the back of the dash cluster before I secure it and put power to battery to see if my gauges work. Well all my gauges work but when I turn on the headlights and adjust dimmer switch to full don't have any dash cluster lights? When I turn my headlight switch all the way to the left my dome light comes on as it should. Is something not hooked up? I had them before? Could this have something to do with the white wire not being connected? I'm totally stumped.

Carl
 
There is a single terminal on the wiper switch that isnt grouped with the large connector. It has a "W" on the back of the switch
 

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try this instead haha, that didnt come out readable
 

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gr, please don't try to post those like that. Instead, put a link so they can download the full size one

You can get them from Mymopar as well as a few shop (factory) manuals

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Wiring diagrams........

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

And the link to the two

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartB.jpg

However these ARE NOT Mopar original and are not always complete or accurate

The factory shop manuals are almost always better

Here

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1967_Dart_Coronet_Charger_Service_Manual.zip

And some from our own site, somewhat of a mixture of the above:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
 
I wanted to give some info to this mystery. I checked my fuses with a test light to see if juice was going to them. First of all my fuse under dash that says instrument isn't blown and when headlights are on the test light lights up when connections at fuse are touched. Second if my lights are in off pos and key is turned to on all gauges work. When I turn headlight switch on gas guage drops to zero. Does that tell me anything? Trying to figure this out.

Carl
 
67 it goes to the back of the wiper switch. For some reason in 67 they routed the back-up light through the wiper switch.
 
Rocky_JS said:
67 it goes to the back of the wiper switch. For some reason in 67 they routed the back-up light through the wiper switch.
Click to expand...
Well it doesn't exactly go "through" the switch, they are simply using it for a terminal block, but I don't think that's correct, either

The 67s were drawn differently than newer If you look at the wire chart on page 8-119, there's only one reference to white, and that is "D4" and "D4A" which comes off the "cold side" of the brake light switch and feeds to pin 7 of the turn signal switch

D4 goes down to the emergency flasher toggle from pin 7. I believe that is an integrated plug on the hazard switch.

The brake light power is pink, comes off (junction) of the hazard flasher, which is fed from the fuse panel
 
Here is the circuit D4 going down off the drawing goes to the hazard switch. Pin 7 of the TS switch is brake light switched power feeding INTO the TS switch

This is the only white wire I could find under the panel
 

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Update on the white wire and dash lights. Well I took my time and went through the wiring schematics I think I' really beginning to understand them. First of all the white wire did in fact go to the connection on the back of the wiper switch. That problem is solved. Now I traced the orange wires from the firewall circuit breaker it then goes to fuse box under dash then feeds to the two 5 prong connectors on the back of the instrument cluster it also branches off from the fuse box to illuminate the radio. I checked multiple points along the orange wire with a test light to see if there is power. Power at fuse box on instrument fuse yes. Power at orange lead to illuminate radio yes. But still don't have any dash lights. Directional works, hazard lights work, brake lights work, and dome light comes on when light switch turned to left. Funny thing is when I switch off lights gas gauge reads accurately when lights are on gas gauge dies. What the heck is going on? I'm determined to fix this.

Carl
 
All orange wires lead to instrument dimmer controlled lamps

This is a "trick" circuit

Your headlight switch gets TWO power sources.

BATT to run the headlights ONLY, is unfused, and there is a breaker built into the light switch. This power runs nothing else, only the headlamps

BATT from the tail lamp fuse to the headlight switch This power goes through the switch, and runs park, tail, and feeds power TO the instrument lamp dimmer control

Power for the instrument lamps goes through the dimmer control and out on a TAN wire which feeds INTO the inst. fuse on the far end of your panel

In other words, for this fuse to have power.................

the tail fuse must be good and that circuit working

the light switch must be in park or head and be working

the dimmer control must be turned to the left to "brighten" the panel lights.

======================================

After all the above is "true" the power TO the inst fuse goes through the fuse, and out to all dimmer controlled lamps ......on.......orange........wire
 
Del

Is there a way to check if the circuit is good if I put the headlight switch to park and don't turn the headlights on? Should I still have dash lights and the ability to dim or brighten them. Is it possible every dash bulb is blown? I doubt it because before I switched out the old gauges all the bulbs worked.

Carl
 
It should still light the gauges and the dimmer will work with the running lights on. A quick test with test light, Orange wire should brighten and dim while moving the rheostat.
Might want to check the wiring at the switch they have a tendency to cook at the switch and connector.
 
It was changed in 68. Here is the back of a 67 Var switch with wiring. I guess I should have said it feeds that circuit with no wire attached it is hot w/key on. It is a little clearer in the 67 barracuda schematic.



67Dart273 said:
Well it doesn't exactly go "through" the switch, they are simply using it for a terminal block, but I don't think that's correct, either

The 67s were drawn differently than newer If you look at the wire chart on page 8-119, there's only one reference to white, and that is "D4" and "D4A" which comes off the "cold side" of the brake light switch and feeds to pin 7 of the turn signal switch

D4 goes down to the emergency flasher toggle from pin 7. I believe that is an integrated plug on the hazard switch.

The brake light power is pink, comes off (junction) of the hazard flasher, which is fed from the fuse panel
Click to expand...
 

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Well I put the headlight switch in park and both directional indicators on the dash are lit up but no dash lights. As I move the light switch in the park position to the right and left the directional indicators brighten and dim as do the lights on my external tach, oil pressure, and temp gauge. What the hell is going on? Should I try replacing the headlight switch check all the connections to make sure they arent fried then reconnect and see? Why do both my directional indicators light up when lights are turned on and brighten and dim by adjusting the light knob but no dashlights? So frustrating.
 
Del

I bet that black wire that connected to the back side of the old voltage limiter was the ground and was needed. I replaced my old limiter with a new IVR upgrade and there wasnt a prong coming off the back of the new limiter like the old one had. I asked about it on another post and they said its just a ground not needed. Well guess what that damn wire could be all my problems. Can I just solder a tab off the back of the new IVR limiter and reconnect the black wire?
 
The wire in the VL could have been the noise suppressor for the radio also. But adding a simple ground sounds like it could solve this as Del stated.
 
I think the noise suppresoor for the radio was plugged into the circuit board in the middle tab under the Limiter and was secured to the back of the speedometer housing with a screw. I think the black wire was the ground. Thanks everyone for helping me with this. I'll let you know tomorrow if problem solved.
 
I think I got a big problem. I tried soldering a prong to the back of the updated new voltage limiter to look like the old one so I could run the ground to it. The problem is I couldn't get the rosin to stick. So I figured I'd just connect the black ground wire to the circuit board off one of the prongs. So I tried grounding the black wire to the red wire connection off one of the studs on the back of the same side of the board that the voltage limiter is on. Well as soon as I hooked up the battery I saw smoke coming from the engine compartment fire wall circuit board. I quickly disconnected the battery and it stopped. I mean the battery was probably hooked up for 1 second. Then I removed the ground wire and figured start back at square one. Well I reconnected the battery and I don't have any juice to the cluster at all and my dome light won't come on. No headlights nothing. How much damage did I cause? What a mess. What have I done? Is there any way to trace the problem?

Carl
 
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