What heat insulation product to use for Duster interior?

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JoesEdge

JoesEdge

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Hi all!

Okay, so I've been searching through various threads here looking for modernmaterials to use for insulating against heat/cold and sound in the interior of my Duster. I haven't had any luck. Most insulation threads turn into sound deadening threads comparing products such as Dynamat, FatMat, Hushmat, and others. I'm looking for what goes on top of that.

Right now the interior is completely gutted. I already ordered a headliner from Rock Auto. I already have butyl sound deadening material to install. I'll be ordering a new carpet kit probably from Stock Interiors. So before all that gets installed, I would like to insulate roof, floor boards, behind the kick panels, firewall, and possibly behind the sail panels as well.

The old way was to use some sort of jute material which was either fiberglass or recycled fabric. I'm not a fan of the fabric because it soaks up spills or leaks. I figured maybe today there's other materials that could be used such as some sort of foam (closed cell, etc) or something else?

My criteria is for the material to be relatively inexpensive, odorless, flame retardant, removable for easy cleaning underneath and non-water absorptive.

As a side question... Anyone know if someone makes an ABS plastic trunk divider?

Any advice/recommendation would be greatly appreciated. I hope to tackle the interior this month.

Thanks!
 

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Use "The Insulator" from Aircraft Spruce. Cut it to fit you car from the front windshield to the rear and up the sides as best you can. Then do the roof. Tape all the seams with that aluminum tape with the wax paper backing. Tape the edges down with the same tape. You may have to use a contact adhesive on the headliner, but the floor etc will stay put under the carpet. I doubled up on the floor, and deadend all the the panel resonation with Dynamat Extreme.
 
jbc426 said:
Use "The Insulator" from Aircraft Spruce. Cut it to fit you car from the front windshield to the rear and up the sides as best you can. Then do the roof. Tape all the seams with that aluminum tape with the wax paper backing. Tape the edges down with the same tape. You may have to use a contact adhesive on the headliner, but the floor etc will stay put under the carpet. I doubled up on the floor, and deadend all the the panel resonation with Dynamat Extreme.
Click to expand...

You mean this stuff?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/insulator1.php?clickkey=46799

The price isn't too bad actually. Although, it still uses the type of fiber that seems to soak up water. I was worried about leaks and spills. I already have a leaky cowl that I can't figure out a way to fix.

But so far, that seems like the best solution so far for the price.

Thanks!
 
Fix the leak before you put down any insulation or carpet. I too am looking for sound deadener before an upcoming carpet install, but I am leaning more towards the peel and stick variety. Looks like a good price on the stuff linked above couple sheets would do the floor and enough for the trunk divider
 
Re: trunk divider

I bought a plastic trunk divider and new jute insulation from 'replacemints' on eBay. My shop sandwiched the old worn fiberboard with the new one with the new ABS one facing the trunk. Fit very nice and looks great.

1973 Duster

My shop used Boommat from Summit for the floors.


Dennis
 
That is the stuff, but they used to have the double sided version. I too have a water leak in my '68 from under the dash, and yes, fix that first. I ordered the wiper gasket kit from Schumacher, but it is available elsewhere too. I am also going to replace my front windshield gasket and windshield, as it is likely leaking too. Taking car of any leaks is definitely the first step of my interior restoration. I have a convertible too, so I replaced the top and all those seals as well.

I found significant water in my insulating mat and carpet after my first attempt, which worked great, but had to be removed because of the water intrusion. There's no rust in my convertible and I don't want it to get a toehold in there.

For those who would like to deaden resonance and block some sound coming through their sheet metal, check out bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme from Amazon. Sign up for their shipping program and get free shipping. It comes out to about half the retail price when I last checked. Their are other products that work great too, just shop around. Avoid the Lowes roofing stuff though. It does get smelly and loose when it's hot out.

For fixing leaks and seam issues on the floor pan etc, I like the 50 year, paintable, black roof caulking in the tubes. The kind that fit in a caulking gun. It dries fast, looks good and can be painted.

After I finished sealing any pin holes etc, I painted my floor with that paint on bed liner available at Oriely's. The stuff is oil based paint and it sticks and covers in a nice hard finish. It's scuff resistant and durable as you would imagine. I really like it for a sealer or even under carriage paint.
 

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I used Dynamat/Eastwood acoustic mats for the first layer and then covered with aircraft grade closed cell foam as a decoupler. It is not on the road yet, but sure deadens any sound transmission through the body.
 

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RealWing said:
I used Dynamat/Eastwood acoustic mats for the first layer and then covered with aircraft grade closed cell foam as a decoupler. It is not on the road yet, but sure deadens any sound transmission through the body.
Click to expand...

Looks like you did a great job!

How many square feet of Dynamat and Foam did you use? Where did you get the foam?

I already purchased 50 sq/ft of FatMat MegaMat (butyl) but I have yet to install it. Actually, I did install some of it on the package tray and I did notice less of a rattle. But since my interior is gutted, EVERYTHING seems to rattle when the engine is running.

I'm hoping to get the window seals replaced this coming Monday, so I can start working on the roof by laying in the MegaMat, heat insulation and headliner.

After that, I need to order the carpet and floor insulation and I was hoping to find a material to stuff into the rear panels to protect against heat, cold, and sound.

I just get so lazy on the weekends. LOL
 
RealWing said:
I used Dynamat/Eastwood acoustic mats for the first layer and then covered with aircraft grade closed cell foam as a decoupler. It is not on the road yet, but sure deadens any sound transmission through the body.
Click to expand...


RealWing, where did you get the aircraft grade closed cell foam from?
 
scatpackbee said:
RealWing, where did you get the aircraft grade closed cell foam from?
Click to expand...

I got the foam from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/supersoundproofsheet.php
This material is excellent for reducing noise levels in all types of certificated and home built aircraft. It is a closed cell vinyl insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. It is smooth on one side for easy attachment to the inside cabin skins, sides, top and front firewall.

Excellent for helicopters as well. Furnished in bulk 48" wide sheet, it is easily cut by scissors and attached with contact cement. Available in black only.

I got 20'x48" wide. I didn't use it all - probably have about 5' left, so I probably used about 720 sq ft.
 

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RealWing said:
I got the foam from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/supersoundproofsheet.php
This material is excellent for reducing noise levels in all types of certificated and home built aircraft. It is a closed cell vinyl insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. It is smooth on one side for easy attachment to the inside cabin skins, sides, top and front firewall.

Excellent for helicopters as well. Furnished in bulk 48" wide sheet, it is easily cut by scissors and attached with contact cement. Available in black only.

I got 20'x48" wide. I didn't use it all - probably have about 5' left, so I probably used about 720 sq ft.
Click to expand...


What thickness of the Super Sound Proofing sheet did you get, 1/8 or 1/4?
 
RealWing said:
I got the foam from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/supersoundproofsheet.php
This material is excellent for reducing noise levels in all types of certificated and home built aircraft. It is a closed cell vinyl insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. It is smooth on one side for easy attachment to the inside cabin skins, sides, top and front firewall.

Excellent for helicopters as well. Furnished in bulk 48" wide sheet, it is easily cut by scissors and attached with contact cement. Available in black only.

I got 20'x48" wide. I didn't use it all - probably have about 5' left, so I probably used about 720 sq ft.
Click to expand...

That's a VERY nice install you have there.

I haven't started on mine yet. Last thing I did was take the dash completely apart in order to paint it black. Also going to take the heater box out to get up in there and try to seal every non-essential hole I find.

Do you have a picture of the product installed? The picture on the website seems to be just a "representative" picture or illustration. I'm curious to see what it looks like installed.

How...how's the interior noise now? What about heat? Do you feel heat coming from your floor pans?

Thanks!
 
JoesEdge said:
That's a VERY nice install you have there.

I haven't started on mine yet. Last thing I did was take the dash completely apart in order to paint it black. Also going to take the heater box out to get up in there and try to seal every non-essential hole I find.

Do you have a picture of the product installed? The picture on the website seems to be just a "representative" picture or illustration. I'm curious to see what it looks like installed.

How...how's the interior noise now? What about heat? Do you feel heat coming from your floor pans?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are photos of the foam installed a few posts back.
I havent had it on the road yet so I cant comment on the interior noise. All I can say is that the foam really dampens any vibration noise from the floor. I've had it running in the garage and it was nice and cool on the interior floor.
Jim
 
RealWing said:
There are photos of the foam installed a few posts back.
I havent had it on the road yet so I cant comment on the interior noise. All I can say is that the foam really dampens any vibration noise from the floor. I've had it running in the garage and it was nice and cool on the interior floor.
Jim
Click to expand...

Hah. I should scroll more often. That's a very nice clean install. So you used 1/4 inch then? It doesn't seem too costly, that company also seems to have a local office/warehouse so that's good too.

This weekend I hope to start prepping the interior for some dash paint, and primering and laying down some Fat Mat. I won't be able to do much since I'm going to the Roaster Show on Sunday.
 
JoesEdge said:
Hah. I should scroll more often. That's a very nice clean install. So you used 1/4 inch then? It doesn't seem too costly, that company also seems to have a local office/warehouse so that's good too.

This weekend I hope to start prepping the interior for some dash paint, and primering and laying down some Fat Mat. I won't be able to do much since I'm going to the Roaster Show on Sunday.
Click to expand...

Yes 1/4". I used 3M spray adhesive to bond it to the acoustic mat material.
 
I used that same closed foam, fiberglass (10x10 welding blanket, $30 at HF lol) and hypo allergenic matting lol. On the insides of the doors I used thick panda film as a barrier and reflectix for heat/sound. It's a lot better.
 
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