What intake to look for??? Stock 360 crate motor

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Dude, re-read these posts;
12, 13, 14, 17, 19

Dollars to donuts, the intake is NOT your problem.
  • pick up a service manual $50 +/- or free on MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
  • check and replace plugs with proper temp range and gap (probably 0.035" if my old brain remembers right) $16
  • replace wires $50-80
  • check compression. Rent the tool at Autozone or O'reilley
  • points distributor? I bet the contacts are all kinds of fucked. Replace with new points, set gap and dwell $10-$20, plus tool rental
  • set timing. $20 timing light
  • use new gas. New fuel filter $10
  • check/change oil is it diarrhea tan? black? chunky? $10 filter, $10-$20 for oil. Just use the dino stuff, if you switch to synthetic, you'll probably get a rear mainseal leak, and leaks elsewhere too.
  • pull valve covers. Are the rockers all moving the same? Are some valves stuck open? Are the pushrods straight?
  • Check timing chain. $50 for a new one, rent harmonic damper puller

Edelbrock Performer or RPM Air Gap if you want to spend more money.
 
Agree that the intake size is not the problem. I had an LD4B small port intake on my 340. Ran fine. Replaced it with an RPM Air Gap and there is more top end, but my butt dyno says there was a little more torque at the lower part of the range with the LD4B. I you just have to change the intake, I'd go with a $50 CI intake off a 340. Will flow more than enough air and leaves a big pile of cash to spend elsewhere.
 
IMO.
The no bottom end is not an intake problem.
Do a compression test
That is the first thing, is what is the health of the engine? If OEM motor made in 75 it is a low compression engine. It can be fun and but it is what it is. Now if a 360 with a 273 intake, the runners don't match, but. Like mentioned, check for vacuum leaks, no doubt that can be a problem. Take it one step at a time.
 
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