what kind of oil for new rebuild

-
G

gotdust57@yahoo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
346
Reaction score
2
what kind of oil is best for new rebuilt engine with cam, heard rotella changed? thanks
 
gotdust57@yahoo said:
what kind of oil is best for new rebuilt engine with cam, heard rotella changed? thanks
Click to expand...

Valvoline 10 30. Don't use synthetic crap. Been in all my engines with complete sucess. Except the race car. I run Royal Purple in that. Stick with natural oil, stay away from the fake stuff. ( synpathetic oil )
 
i have 5 quarts of castrol gtx 10-40 anti sludge do you think that will work out? thanks
 
Run the GM EOS supplement on break in, or the Hughes additive. Check out bobistheoilguy, that website is packed full of oil info.
Mike
 
dusterdood said:
Run the GM EOS supplement on break in, or the Hughes additive. Check out bobistheoilguy, that website is packed full of oil info.
Mike
Click to expand...
:sign6: :sign6: :sign6:
I completley disagree with you. NEVER put additives in a new motor under no circumstances, Unless you like to rebuild every year.
 
For flat tappet cams, which I guess I should not assume is in this engine, you should use an additive. Helps to not wipe out your cam lobes on break in. BITOG website is chock full of good info. check it out.
Mike
 
dusterdood said:
Run the GM EOS supplement on break in, or the Hughes additive. Check out bobistheoilguy, that website is packed full of oil info.
Mike
Click to expand...

Comp Cams has a additive also which you get out of Summit. I have installed a new cam not to long ago myself and was told to use the Rotella-T, Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil or add a additive (GM EOS,Comp Cam,etc..) to my oil of choice. I went with the Rotella which I did the cam change in 06 before they did in changes in the oil. It was cheaper than the other methods. Now I really havn't thought about it but when the next oil change comes I think I'm going to go with the Valvoline VR-1. I know that we need more protection for our flat tappet cams than just throwing any oil in like everyone else. I was told this by these guys on here and some of them been around motors longer than I have been alive. Those that just pick a oil and go with it might be asking for trouble. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
I agree that the VR1 is the way to go. Brad Penn oil is good, too. Made in PA also. These are about $3/qt here. I'd also sugest a straight 30 wt for the 20 minute break in, then go with the 10-30 or what ever you chose.
Mike
PS, DTK-what bad has happened using additives?
 
You definately need some kind of zink additive unless it's a roller cam of some type. Comp, Crane, and others now have it in bottles you just add them with any oil change, and you can run any oil you like. GM EOS is also good, but I've heard of some guys who's dealer didnt have it or want to get it.
 
dusterdood said:
I agree that the VR1 is the way to go. Brad Penn oil is good, too. Made in PA also. These are about $3/qt here. I'd also sugest a straight 30 wt for the 20 minute break in, then go with the 10-30 or what ever you chose.
Mike
PS, DTK-what bad has happened using additives?
Click to expand...

Not to start an additive war. You do not need additives. Good non synthetic oil already has all you need. Allot of additives create aeration. Air in oil is bad umm kay. As far as flat tappet statement, you are out in left field. The only additive you need for a flat tappet cam is the molly assembly lube the cam comes with. A flat tappet cam is broken in the first 20 minutes of run time. You NEVER let the engine idle on the first fire up. It should be kept between 1800 and 2500 rpm to break the cam in. Let the engine cool and reset tappets. It's done, it's broken in. the same holds true for Hydraulic cam but not roller. The other problem with additives it makes the oil too slippery ( yes you read right). Ok why is that bad? Glad you asked, What does oil do ? Ok it lubricates. It also is a coolant. Most people forget about this part. Like synthetic in a fresh engine is wrong. When oil moves over the crank as an example. It does not remove the heat from the crank properly. Rings do not break in properly. The list goes on. It’s your engine do as you please. I built 1500 hp engines without a single additive. Never an issue.
 
DTK said:
Not to start an additive war. You do not need additives. Good non synthetic oil already has all you need. Allot of additives create aeration. Air in oil is bad umm kay. As far as flat tappet statement, you are out in left field. The only additive you need for a flat tappet cam is the molly assembly lube the cam comes with. A flat tappet cam is broken in the first 20 minutes of run time. You NEVER let the engine idle on the first fire up. It should be kept between 1800 and 2500 rpm to break the cam in. Let the engine cool and reset tappets. It's done, it's broken in. the same holds true for Hydraulic cam but not roller. The other problem with additives it makes the oil too slippery ( yes you read right). Ok why is that bad? Glad you asked, What does oil do ? Ok it lubricates. It also is a coolant. Most people forget about this part. Like synthetic in a fresh engine is wrong. When oil moves over the crank as an example. It does not remove the heat from the crank properly. Rings do not break in properly. The list goes on. It’s your engine do as you please. I built 1500 hp engines without a single additive. Never an issue.
Click to expand...

I guess you haven't read anything in the past year then. Passenger car oils have underwent major changes in the past year and have lost the ZDDP additive package so they could meet the stricter 2007 emmisions rules. With out the ZDDP package COMP, Crane and others were getting calls saying their cams were wiping out lobes and through some research it was found that the oils dropped this additive package which helped to lube and stick to the flat tappet cams. Almost all if not all new car and really since the early 90's the engines came from the manufacturer with roller cams and the lack of ZDDP doesn't effect them like it does flat tappet cams. The GM EOS additive and the stuff COMP and Hughes sells adds the zinc back into the oil and it IS NEEDED for breakin and for normal use after that if you are using an EPA rated oil. If you run Royal Purple, Red Line, Valvoline VR1 or Brad Penn or another "off road" oil you don't need the additive.
 
Duster318 I agree and would add that not all oils are "slippery snake oil" additives some additives are there just to add compounds to the oil like the Moly you talk about DTK, is that not an additive?

I have never seen any test that shows synthetic oils have less heat dissipation qualities that petroleum oils and if you have I would be very interested in reading such a test.

Aeration is introducing air into a liquid, how does putting in a liquid additive aerate oil? If you are talking about viscosity additives that makes the oil thicker and harder to pump which could cause air to be extracted from the oil itself, then that would be cavitation and yes that would be bad. I don't feel there is a need for viscosity adders either, if a thicker oil is needed change viscosities of the oil itself.

DTK, you made a reference to building 1500hp engines, I guessing those aren't using flat tappet cams.


Chuck
 
OK....I read the article that demon seed gave a link to for Hughesengines and they say to use a oil that is CI-4 or CI-4 Plus (Rotella T still falls in this rating if you check out their web site) in order to run with our flat tappet camshafts or use a oil of choice and add the additive that Hughes sell. That is fine and so that gives me two ways of protecting my cam.

Now if I go to Valvoline and check out their VR-1 Racing oil it dose not fall into CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rateing. Check it out:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1 Racing Motor Oil.pdf

Now I'm confused a little here. Would you guys go with what Hughes is saying and go with their additive and use my oil of choice or use Rotella T which seems Hughes is saying either is fine? But if I stick to what Hughes has to say then Valvoline Racing oil in out of the question. What do you guys think because my oil change is coming up soon?
 
Buy the additive, and run whatever dino oil you want. Odn a sidebar, I cant understand why he doesnt like synthetics. I run them in several flat tappet cars. Once the engine has some miles, they are much better protection IMO...lol.
 
The true synthetic is a superior oil for the reasons most understand however, one of the inherant problems is that synthetic is so slippery, when compared to conventional, that the lifters don't always rotate in their bores(roller lifters not included LOL). This rotation needs to occur so that the cam lobes are always seeing a nice flat area and that any wear to the bottom of the lifter is universal. Another problem I've heard is that if you use synthetic on a new engine build there is a possibility that the rings won't seat to the cylinder walls. Years ago alot of the north american car companies have said not to use synthetics until the engine has 10K on it but I don't think that is a concern nowadays.

Terry
 
YOU bash synethics but use it in your race motor? makes no sense

DTK said:
Valvoline 10 30. Don't use synthetic crap. Been in all my engines with complete sucess. Except the race car. I run Royal Purple in that. Stick with natural oil, stay away from the fake stuff. ( synpathetic oil )
Click to expand...
 
i have ran mobil 1 15w50 for 30k miles and havent seen the filters not rotating bs.
 
I think it is time to put an end to the synthetic myths along with the term "slippery." Terms like viscosity index, TBN, centistokes, pour point, etc. are what we use to compare the properites of oil. If anyone wants to use the term slippery to describe an oil's performance, they shuold accompany those coments with values, numbers and test data to back it up, or they are just talking smak.
 
The people who know will be the ones who have engines that run for 200k, 250k or 300k + miles; they can show the others the info, but they cannot make them believe.

The ones who "THINK" they know all the answers will just blow lots of smoke and post poorly spelled and poorly thought out proclamations of intelligence on the bulletin board, and will be replacing/repairing their engines more frequently than the rest of us, whom are intelligent, keep informed, up to date and open minded.

Personally I keep the engine work to a minimum, so's to spend more time driving.
 
So are like "for" or "against" synthetic motor oil? And why? Sorry, I just don't understand exactly what point it is you are trying to make.

Did I just get "sniped?" :dontknow:
 
Sorry, but spelling has nothing to do with be well informed, absolutely nothing. Illiteracy is very common and is not a gauge of intelligence nor is spelling something different just because of the region or country you live. For example a Canadian people spell things differently that U.S. people do, example "colour" Canadian version, "color" U.S. english version. So who is the unintelligent one and who is the "genius"? Canadians or U.S.

Hell, I'm a product of public schools and it is amazing I can spell at all. No disrespect intended to any school teachers on this forum, you are only able to play the hand the school system deals you. I don't blame our public education system problems on you. Like just about everything the government touches they are the ones that screwed it up.

Also, people do have medical conditions that cause them to mis-spell and see things differently, you and I have had this discussion before haven't we?

But it's just like you to take a poke or single somebody out isn't it, krabysniper?

Lastly, you mention having an open mind. Rating somebody by their spelling does not seem to me to be open minded.

Chuck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top