what other cars will work with mine?

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red cuda

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hello, I am converting my 65 barracuda to a v8. I purchased the k member for a v8. But since I have it tore down , I want to put disc brakes on it. My question is what other cars will work? ..........Im kinda new at this , and trying to stay on a budget. I see that Ebay has them for around $700.Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
I'm sure someone will reply. Meanwhile you might go to the "search" function, type in keyword "disc" and the options "show titles" and "show threads." Then you will see all the past threads.

Disc swaps are a common topic. I'm not a tech but basically the choices are:

Swap in a disc setup from a '73-later a-body, complete with the larger ball-joints. However those use the 4.5 in bolt pattern so you'll need new wheels and if you want all 4 to be the same you'll need to modify the rear too.

Or find a Kelsey-Hayes setup off an earlier a-body. Then you'll keep the 4 in bolt pattern.

Or buy one of the new complete aftermarket kits.

Or do the Scarebird conversion kit which is an adapter mount which enables you to use more commonly found (gm) rotors, pads etc.

My apologies for any omissions but again I'm not a tech, just sharing my understanding. Welcome to FABO!
 
I don't know how this was missed.Anyway your 65 uses the same K frame slant 6 or small block. The big thing when doing disc change over is some kits require different upper control arms and spindles.First you have to determine if your car has 9" or 10'' front drum brakes.Google 65 Barracuda disc brake kits. You will find companies that have kits for 9'' drum conversion (Wilwood,Scarebird) (10'' Stainless Steel Brake Corp. etc.) or you may find info on using factory parts from 73-76 A body power disc cars.
Next thing you have to determine is what bolt pattern wheel you want to use.Your car now has 4''(factory) instead of the more common 4 1/2'' pattern.
I see you are new to this board, Do a search and read,read,read.You will find all the info you are looking for. Hope this helps.
 
an early K member is the same for a V-8 or 6 cylinder, you just need to use the correct motor mounts, the center link is different though,
1966 and back are the early A-bodies
1967 and newer are the later A-bodies,
 
So, if you did the front with 73 up parts you end up with a four inch bolt pattern on the back wheels, and 4.5 inch bolt pattern on the fronts.

I might have missed it, but I didn't see that mentioned specifically.

10 days is a frikin long time, and you must have felt like ya had cooties or something huh? :D
 
hello, I am converting my 65 barracuda to a v8. I purchased the k member for a v8. But since I have it tore down , I want to put disc brakes on it. My question is what other cars will work?

Cautions:

  • 65-72 A-bodies used LH thread lug studs on the driver's side of the car. The lug stud will have a L stamped into the end of it. A lot of these have been broken off and replaced with RH thread pieces. Paying attention can keep the knurled area of the stud from getting wallowed out by trying to over-tighten the lug.
  • The 65 Barracuda originally came with 13 inch wheels, except the Formula S which had 14s. These will not fit disk brakes. It takes at least a 14 inch wheel to clear the caliper.
  • The upper ball joint threads into upper control arm. (Haynes manual lies on this one.) Once the spindle is separated, the ball joint is removed with a special socket (and a LOT of effort). Suggest that the ball joint be removed with the upper control arm mounted in the car.
  • There are three different sizes for the ball joint socket. The smallest socket is used on A-bodies up to the end of the 72 model year. The middle socket is used on 73 and later A-bodies as well as just about everything else Mopar made. The largest socket was used for body-on-frame Imperials and trucks.

The easiest swap is to find a 65-72 A-body with disk brakes from a salvage yard. These are a four piston, fixed caliper design that were made by Kelsey-Hayes. Besides the spindle with every thing attached, you'll need the master cylinder and the proportioning valve from the donor car. I recommend a 67 and later setup as it has a dual master cylinder. This is easier because the hub on this swap uses the same 4-inch 5 bolt pattern that the car has on it. It seems that 14 inch wheels are more common on 69-72 cars.

The more difficult swap is to use disk brakes from a 73 and later A-body. These brakes are a single piston, floating caliper design. For this swap, you'll need all the above plus the upper control arm. What makes this more difficult is that the hub uses a 4½-inch 5 bolt pattern.

The advantage is that this opens up a lot more options for aftermarket wheels as the pattern is shared with Ford and AMC. The disadvantage is that after completing this swap, the car will have two different bolt patterns for wheel, 4½" front, 4" rear. This can cause you to: a. Carry two spare tires, one on each type of wheel. b. Gamble that you'll have the correct bolt-pattern wheel as a spare if you have a flat and are only carrying one spare. c. Swap the rear axle to the 4½" bolt pattern.

The 68-70 B-body is also a big bolt pattern disk brake source, too. However, the upper control arm will need to come from a 73 or later A-body. The B-body spindle is a little taller than the A-body, but it fits. There are some front tire camber change issues but not significant unless the car is really pushed. Some who have followed this path report that the camber change characteristic is not noticeable.

While the front end is apart, it is a great time to replace the bushings. Unless the car is going to be used for Autocross or road racing, I recommend rubber replacement bushings. They provide a more pleasant ride and don't squeak like some polyurethane bushings do.
 
The 64-72 K-H brake setups command a high price. A member here sells refurbished setups for ~$700. Mustangs used similar parts. The Wilwood kit is good and easy, but ~$700. Scarebird is much less, but you get a floating single-piston caliper. Those work fine on most cars on the road, but isn't considered hot. I personally don't like the 73+ BBP swap because you then need new front wheels that differ from your rears, or change all that. It gives the same basic design as Scarebird's, with less common parts, and a lot more labor. Also, the parts are no longer cheap. A guy on ebay sells kits w/ new parts, but almost as much as a Wilwood kit.
 
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