What spark plugs should i use 66 dart 170 base 2.8L engine?

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66DartSedan

66DartSedan

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as Im replacing old parts on my car im gonna put in a new set of plugs as the plugs i have are probably 15 years old.
 
I run Champion N14Y in both my 1965 -170 and my 1966 -225.I've run them for the past 40 years . It is the proper heat range for this motor. So,you're in the city driving a Dart,cool . ! I'm out on the island .Got lots of stuff for them .
 
Stock plugs were Champion N 14 Y. Most replace with more common RN 12 YC Champions.
Spark plugs are like the oil debate about what is better. NGK, Autolite, E3, etc. It's up to you.
 
12's are hotter than 14's Error ! 14's are hotter than 12's .I ran 11's once but they cold fouled after a while.
 
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valiantwagonguy said:
I run Champion N14Y in both my 1965 -170 and my 1966 -225.I've run them for the past 40 years . It is the proper heat range for this motor. So,you're in the city driving a Dart,cool . ! I'm out on the island .Got lots of stuff for them .
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Hey man, yeah I'm here in Astoria. She gets lots of smiles per gallon around here.
 
NGK spark plug № ZFR5N (stock № 3459) is going to be a better pick than the standard plugs, without costing more. Quality is very much better than what Champion or Autolite will sell you, and this particular plug has extended/projected electrodes that move the spark away from the quenchout zone, for more complete combustion. There's nothing such as a magic spark plug, but these will gain you a little bit better driveability and fuel economy.

Whichever plugs you wind up choosing, gap them at 0.035" and make sure to remove their metal ring washers before installing them.
 
slantsixdan said:
NGK spark plug № ZFR5N (stock № 3459) is going to be a better pick than the standard plugs, without costing more. Quality is very much better than what Champion or Autolite will sell you, and this particular plug has extended/projected electrodes that move the spark away from the quenchout zone, for more complete combustion. There's nothing such as a magic spark plug, but these will gain you a little bit better driveability and fuel economy.

Whichever plugs you wind up choosing, gap them at 0.035" and make sure to remove their metal ring washers before installing them.
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My real question is how do I take them off without messing up the plug

spark.jpg
 
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I grab the ring washer with a regular slip-joint pliers, put the spark plug socket/wrench on the plug, and just unscrew the plug from the washer. It's a little stiff at first, but nothing gets damaged.
 
slantsixdan said:
I grab the ring washer with a regular slip-joint pliers, put the spark plug socket/wrench on the plug, and just unscrew the plug from the washer. It's a little stiff at first, but nothing gets damaged.
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Thanks that did the trick! Now the 66 dodge_coronet FSM says they should be gapped at .035 , Im guessing thats for any plug you put in. They seem to come out of the box at .035 if I'm reading this correctly. Am I on point here? Also, Should I use dielectric grease on the new plugs I'm putting in as well?

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0.035" is correct unless/until you start improving the ignition system (HEI upgrade ). They probably are gapped at 0.035" out the box, but it's wise of you to check. A ramp-style gap gauge like that (or any other flat-style gauge) is almost worse than useless; to check spark plug gaps accurately requires a round-wire gap gauge like this:
81f9fwcxUaL._SL1500_.jpg

Dielectric grease ("tune-up grease", "silicone grease", "spark plug boot grease") is a good idea. Just a little dab'll do ya on the plug terminal and porcelain; it doesn't take much, so don't be a paste-waster. Rotate the plug wire boot a little as you install it to spread the grease around, but don't go crazy and twist off your plug wire ends.
 
slantsixdan said:
0.035" is correct unless/until you start improving the ignition system (HEI upgrade ). They probably are gapped at 0.035" out the box, but it's wise of you to check. A ramp-style gap gauge like that (or any other flat-style gauge) is almost worse than useless; to check spark plug gaps accurately requires a round-wire gap gauge like this:
View attachment 1715146206

Dielectric grease ("tune-up grease", "silicone grease", "spark plug boot grease") is a good idea. Just a little dab'll do ya on the plug terminal and porcelain; it doesn't take much, so don't be a paste-waster. Rotate the plug wire boot a little as you install it to spread the grease around, but don't go crazy and twist off your plug wire ends.
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Ah okay. I'l go get one. Now lastly, as far as torque specs I don' see that in the FAM so I guess just tighten to plugs firmly and leave it?
 
Yep, tighten 'em firmly but don't get too hamfisted about it.

You're putting in new spark plug tube seals (rubber O-rings), right?
 
I don't put anti-seize on plug threads. A drop of engine oil on the threads before installation can save your bacon at a later date if you install cheap-*** spark plugs (Chinese-made Autolites, Champions with coarsely-cut threads, etc). It is not necessary or beneficial with well-made spark plugs like the NGKs you bought, which will not stick. And in fact, NGK wishes you please wouldn't use it; it's № 1 on their list of spark plug install tips.

1960-1974 Slant-6 cylinder heads have stamped aluminum spark plug tubes. At the top of each tube, just under its outermost flared rim/lip, is a rubber O-ring that seals the tube to the head so you won't have an oil leak. These cook to death over the years; yours are almost certainly crispy, hard, and cracked. Replace them. Info is in the list of tune-up parts and technique suggestions here. Since the plugs must be removed to remove the plug tubes, it's best to put in the new tube seals when you change the plugs.
 
slantsixdan said:
I don't put anti-seize on plug threads. A drop of engine oil on the threads before installation can save your bacon at a later date if you install cheap-*** spark plugs (Chinese-made Autolites, Champions with coarsely-cut threads, etc). It is not necessary or beneficial with well-made spark plugs like the NGKs you bought, which will not stick. And in fact, NGK wishes you please wouldn't use it; it's № 1 on their list of spark plug install tips.

1960-1974 Slant-6 cylinder heads have stamped aluminum spark plug tubes. At the top of each tube, just under its outermost flared rim/lip, is a rubber O-ring that seals the tube to the head so you won't have an oil leak. These cook to death over the years; yours are almost certainly crispy, hard, and cracked. Replace them. Info is in the list of tune-up parts and technique suggestions here. Since the plugs must be removed to remove the plug tubes, it's best to put in the new tube seals when you change the plugs.
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I'm not seeing where the instructions are to remove and insall new O rings?
 
Dude…what? Right here in this thread, in post № 21, I just told you where the O-rings are and linked you to a post that contains the part number and even a link to click and buy them. What more do you need?
 
slantsixdan said:
Dude…what? Right here in this thread, in post № 21, I just told you where the O-rings are and linked you to a post that contains the part number and even a link to click and buy them. What more do you need?
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Oops, I miss things on this phone. Thanks. I see it's at the "Remove the plug, stick a finger in the tube, press down or sideways a little to unstick it, and remove it. "
 
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