what volume oil pump

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys

I am getting ready to swap the pan and pickup on my 360 so it will work in my duster
the pan will be an 8 quart milodon unit and I figured now would be a good time to also put in a new oilpump

would there be any reason for me to install a high volume unit or will the stocker work just fine for my application ?

this will just be a street car

thanks
 
krazykuda said:
There are two schools of thought. Some like the high volume, some don't.


I use high volume pumps myself.



FYI - read this thread after post 11 for info on standard vs high volume vs high pressure and which ones to buy for what you want...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=301617
Click to expand...

I read through that thread (and several others) but it didn't really answer my question
if I don't need the higher volume pump im fine sticking with a stocker unit but since I never ran the engine I don't know what pressure I will be running until I fire it up to break in the cam
 
I used a lot of Moroso 8qt pans years back on several different model engines, and I installed Melling HV pumps in all of them. Most would have survived with a stock pump, but I liked to use bearing clearances on the "loose" side and I figured it was just a little insurance. By the way, I never lost a bottom end on any of those engines...
 
If the engine has stock bearing clearances there's no reason to waste energy using a HV pump(it takes more power to spin a HV pump). Stock volume pumps will deliver about 50-55 psi oil pressure with stock clearances. If it's a street car that your not racing there's absolutely no need for more pressure. JMHO
 
Seems to be an on going debate....I use high volume pumps....

Does anyone know what HP is required by the Hv pump vs the stock volume pump?
 
70aarcuda said:
Does anyone know what HP is required by the Hv pump vs the stock volume pump?
Click to expand...

I never had any idea Tony? My guess was something around 5hp, but my stuff was mostly just street/strip cars so it really didn't matter. :smile:

Generally speaking, the pressure on most was either side of 40lbs at idle & either side of 70lbs at 6k+. With the 8qt pan, it was never a issue running out of oil.

I did run a few SBC's in that configuration with only 6qts in the pan and no tray/scrapper.......again, no issues.
 
If you do use the HV pump, make sure you use the hardened intermediate shaft with it.
 
70aarcuda said:
Seems to be an on going debate....I use high volume pumps....

Does anyone know what HP is required by the Hv pump vs the stock volume pump?
Click to expand...

Your right. It's one of those debates that probably won't ever die, lol

I read a test that was done yrs. ago. I don't remember the exact amount but I believe Rick is correct that it was approx. 5 hp.
 
I have been using the standard pump with 20 idle and 55 anything over 1,800 rpm that is hot with 10/30 VR1. If your egine was set up " tight" go standard if loose high vol.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
I have been using the standard pump with 20 idle and 55 anything over 1,800 rpm that is hot with 10/30 VR1. If your egine was set up " tight" go standard if loose high vol.
Click to expand...

x2. I tend to build tighter clearances and run std pumps with the high pressure relief spring added. My engines are around 20psi at idle and 65psi peak with 10-30 oil at operating temp. Unless the clearances get bigger or there is sustained high rpms, you don't need high volume, and it does cost power and generate more heat.
 
I went ahead an picked up a stock volume
hopefully I can bolt the top end up this weekend and get the pump installed aswell

one more quick question, is it at all possible to drop in the intermediate shaft wrong (say, 45 degrees off) and by doing so screw up the timing or will it always drop in right because of how it meshes?

(last thing I need is to prime the oilpump only to screw up the timing and still not get her to fire right up)
 
No. The intermediate shaft will turn the oil pump wherever it needs to be. Although you can install the intermediate shaft anywhere, I like doing that by the book.

The FSM says to point the slot in the top of the intermediate shaft towards the front most driver's side intake manifold bolt. In other words, when it is in right the slot will be facing about 11 o'clock viewed from above (using the centerline of the water pump as 12 'clock).

The reason for this is that when the distributor is installed, there will be plenty of room for the vacuum advance can to move so that you can adjust timing.
 
If you go by the FSM...make sure the rotor and blade at the end of the distributor point the same way....MP distributors do but some aftermarket distributors do not...and if you set the intermediate shaft to point as FSM...the rotor will be off..
 
70aarcuda said:
If you go by the FSM...make sure the rotor and blade at the end of the distributor point the same way....MP distributors do but some aftermarket distributors do not...and if you set the intermediate shaft to point as FSM...the rotor will be off..
Click to expand...

x2.
 
i wonder where one might obtain one of these FSMs you speak off
 
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