What would be the best rear end?

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Ok I have seen a couple 9.25 that were fairly reasonable, will it bolt straight in? I can have it narrowed. There's also a ford rear end with posi and IRS that's $500 would that require a lot of fabrication?
 
RDupont01 said:
Ok I have seen a couple 9.25 that were fairly reasonable, will it bolt straight in? I can have it narrowed. There's also a ford rear end with posi and IRS that's $500 would that require a lot of fabrication?
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Wow;Sounds like you are kinda new at this.No offense but unless you have someone close to you that you can depend on,take it slow and easy.Lot's of us here have built some wild stuff and made mistakes along the way.That costs money.If you are not well versed on how to narrow,who to take it to,what parts work and which ones don't,then you are shooting in the dark.Make sure that you get the prices on the rear-price to narrow that rear-axles to fit-which wheels you want to use.E brake cables can be a pain-driveshaft must be changed.Just make sure that you add everything up before you make a big decision.8.25 is a bolt in 8 3/4 is a bolt in,from there the sky is the limit.It's great to save money,but be sure that you are not just throwing money around,because it all counts.
 
RDupont01 said:
Ok I have seen a couple 9.25 that were fairly reasonable, will it bolt straight in? I can have it narrowed. There's also a ford rear end with posi and IRS that's $500 would that require a lot of fabrication?
Click to expand...

installing an IRS would take ton of fabrication and mods so unless you're an experienced race car fabricator,it's probably not going to work for you.

9.25 rears are plenty strong and parts are fairly cheap if you're willing to scrounge through junkyards or swap meets plus your existing e-brake cables should work fine with that.Since they were used in big cars and trucks/vans,they'll all be large bolt pattern and have big brakes as a bonus.The housing and axles would have to be shortened to length and spring perches rewelded so it starts to add up but if you got the original parts for next to nothing it might be a way to go.

You'd also have to shorten a driveshaft or find one from another vehicle that would work for your application.Best to look for one with the same size u-joint if you go that route.
 
I am definitely new to mopar, so yes I'm shooting in the dark, but that's what forums are for right? Either way I have a friend that is fairly knowledgable and great with a welder, and he is helping me on the build. I wouldnt mind the bit of fab work for a 9.25 but the IRS seems to much to chew. I am really looking to get rid of my single legged and put posi/sure grip in there. However would be the best option with a budget conscious build. Im not completely strapped, but trying to keep it around $500, willing to go up a bit more if needed. Keep the advice coming it's definitely helping. Thank you!

Robert
 
>>get rid of my single legged and put posi/sure grip in there

Way way waaaaay back in the day my brother and I had a 64 Polara that we swapped in a 354 hemi/ 4spd and the 8 3/4 still had an open diff. We used a set of slapper bars and after some fussing on the adjustments the car would lay down two very uniform strips of rubber from those L60-15's(that's how long ago!) and 4.56. Oh yeah, battery in trunk.

I am no racer but I think that indicates equal torque to the two wheels. If that's the case it makes me wonder about just how much of a must have a suregrip is. I know some people have a disdain for slappers but hey...lots cheaper than a SG... tell 'em not to look.

I'm eventually going to do a SG, its just not at the top of the list for now. I'll wait til I can't do without it.

This project is a 66 Dart with 392 hemi, 727. About 150 more HP and 500lbs lighter than the Polara, we shall see what happens.
 
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