What would YOU do with a slant six?

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68Valiant said:
I remember that Hot Rod article from 2000. If I am not mistaken, they were able to squeeze almost pound for pound torque for CID.

BTW- I rescue old slant sixes that get tossed out of their homes for small blocks ;-)
No donation turned away :)

Russ
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I would never give up my slanty!!! stay away! lol j/p

thats good, slants have that unique thing that i dont know what, makes me want to make it alive!!!
 
Intake: Clifford or Offy 4bbl intake. (Better/cheaper than Hyper-Pac for street)
Carb: Edel 500 or Holley 390
Head: Shave up to .100 for compression.
SSI slant six oversize valves Intake 1.70" Exhaust 1.44"
Valve spring P4120249 Retainer P4452033
Valve stem keepers stock slant
Cam: Your choice.Hop it up but dont go to crazy.
Headers: Clifford shorties
Rear gear: 3.23 or 3.55 any taller sucks on the highway.

Good luck.

075_75.JPG
 
Low Budget build:

2 BBL Intake
Carter BBD Carb
Header

or

Offy 4BBL Intake
Holley 390 Carb
Header
 
I WAS going to build the slant six in my 71 Demon. But now I am going with the small block swap.

Too bad, since I have a bunch of parts sitting here for the slant six that will not be going into it!

I have the Offy intake and new Holley 390cfm model 8007 carb. I have the oversized MOPAR valves, guides, retainers and performance valve springs. I was going to mill the head .100 and do a gasket match port and polish job.

All I needed was a set of headers, or Dutra Duals... and a cam upgrade.

Unless you have an overdrive transmission, you don't want more than a 3.23 rear end ratio for a daily driver... especially if you drive on the freeway!

But I came across a 75 Dart Sport Convertriple that the body is shot on. But it has 40,000 miles on its drivetrain. It is a 318 with an A833 4-speed OD trans and an 8 1/4 rear. The entire drivetrain will swap perfectly into the 71 Demon. Plus... I got the big bolt pattern front disc brakes out of the deal!

Putting my parts pile for the 318 together now. Going to use swirl port close chambered 302 casting heads with a mild port and polish job. Plan on using a Lunati Voodoo cam. Headers are a must... running 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust with an x-pipe. Induction will be with a Weiand Stealth manifold topped by a 600cfm Holley carb. An HEI ignition is also on hand and ready to go.

I am looking to build the 318 into a torque monster. An RPM range of idle through 5500 or 6000 rpm is my target. It should be a great combo for the street.

Of course... upgrades are always on the horizon! So I am already planning the build of a 360 that will put out 500-575 horses. Not much good on the street... unless I can get it to hook up without eating tires! But that is a whole other story.

Good luck with your slant six... they can be really fun if they are built up right!
 
Hey Johnny Dart, Have you had any problems with the carb facing forward?
I have been told that it's better to mount it so the front of the carb is facing the drivers side fender, something about fuel distrabution when going around a corner.
I am working on a late modle 225 with an offy intake, eddy 500 cfm, and clifford headers. I am going to get the head milled and install a small cam. right now I have the carb facing the drivers fender.
 
360 Scamp,

This issue has been tossed around thousands of times on other sites.The idea is better fuel distribution to the runners.I personally have never had the carb facing anyway but forward,with no problems what so ever.Plus the linkages hook up way easier.Again the car runs perfect this way.

If you want to run your carb sideways the carb should actually face the pass fender.Primaries to the front,secondaries to the back.Many believe it to be more trouble than it is worth.

Take care.
 
I get 15 mpg around town and 19mpg highway if I can keep it to 60mph, which is hard to do since every one wants to cruise at 70.
 
i wouldn't just throw a 4bbl on unless you have some kind of head work done, just a note. :thumbup: .100 mill, bigger valves, sivalves.com has about any size you want
 
1966 dart wagon said:
i wouldn't just throw a 4bbl on unless you have some kind of head work done, just a note. :thumbup: .100 mill, bigger valves, sivalves.com has about any size you want
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perfect...haha so how much HP gain from a 2 bb to a 4bb? are 4bb bad on gasmileage?
 
a 2bbl will give a slant better mpg then the 1bbl will, hard to believe but true :thumbup: and the 4bbl wont exactly be a gas milage carb, but would do alright if you keep the secondaries closed, (that would be hard for me) haha. Im not really sure on hp ratings for 2-4bbl but if you just slap a 4bbl on w/o headwork or other work done, it will be overkill for the lil slant. What kinda of numbers you looking for. You should post this topic at ss.org they got tons of stuff, and can help you with ever detail, really good guys :thumbup:

Post count : 666 :tongue9: :twisted:
 
dgc333 said:
You can get a little more info on my \6 build at http://mysite.verizon.net/david.clement/

FWIW, it was fun having the built up \6 and it did get 23 mpg on the highway with the A833OD but I do not regret for a second swapping in the 360.
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O wow very nice! Who wouldnt want a v8's power in their muscle car...and if i had a cuda like that and a nice old year i wouldnt leave a slant...but since mine is a 74 swinger...not a 68 69 which are my favourites then i'll just work with the slant...very good info from your page....cant wait to gather the parts!!!

im guessing my trans. is a auto 904 3 speed. I would really like to put in a 4 speed 833 that would be so much fuN! hehe

thanks
 
I met Charlie_S at Garlit's a year ago. He runs the 13's with NOS 170cid and a 1bbl!!


Mill the head and get some compression, that's really important. Port it! I have done some work on mine. Still have the stock cam. M-1 2bbl intake. Porosity issues (vacuum leaks) with the factory aluminum intakes. They need a thick coat of paint on them.

slantsix.com is dead. .org is still there. I wish I had the money when I milled my head to go with bigger valves.

I would shop for used intakes and headers. I bought my headers used. My intake is out of production. Got it new in the box with a rebuilt 318 truck carb Holley for $75

Want instant performance? Set your valves! Set them to the factory "hot spec." Except set them stone cold. It tricks the engine into thinking it has more lift and duration. The best stock cam is in the 70-74 engines.

Best thing to do is get another head and get it ready then just do the swap. Many give the engines away.
 
I think a 225 slant six has a longer stroke that a 440. I read that in some tech article. I don't know but I would say just run the thing. Use it up if that's possible. Tinker around and experiment. You don't have to go sinking major funds into it. Later on if you get bored, you can shop around for a V8 and have fun with a swap project. If it ends up that you dig the S6, keep it and do a killer rebuild.
 
Hey everyone, well after being gone for some time after moving and having no internet now im at the library with my mind set on a setup for my slant six.

I would like to get any help and feedback on this setup which i got from a forum from a guy named leu.

Seems to be what I would like for a street car, that is after i manage to collect all the parts i need to start rebuilding the engine.

It would really help if you all can tell me if there are other ways of doing this rebuild and or if there is a cheaper way. I realy dont mind saving money and buying the parts i need as time passes, im not too in a hurry. If there is anything u guys want to get rid off that i can buy for cheap that would be handy to me would also be great!

MAY YOU EXAMINE THIS SETUP AND GIVE ME TIPS AND HINTS PLESE! THANKS! :thumbup:

Setup:
Stall converter 2800 RPM (Good name brand was recommended no cheapies)

Overbore 0,030" - 0.060"

resized Stock cast pistons (silvolites recommended)

Crack check rods if staying under 6000 RPM

stock '68-'75 crank with big hub and grind to 0.010"/0.010" under or more if it needs it

balance rotating assembly with flexplate/flywheel and harmonic balancer (Chech block, crank, head for cracks)

name brand moly rings and 0.010"/0.010" bearings (ex. M77's) and set bearing clearances at 0.0015" for street

use melling High Volume oil pump with 50-60 psi (stock) spring

Use double roller T-Chain

Put in 1.72" intake/1.50" exhaust valves (SB chevy V8's would need to bore a notch on exhaust side only if overbore is less than 0.060")

install 11/32" valve guides and new springs / locks / keepers.

machine the valve spring seats and valve seats, hardened exhaust valve seats recommended

do mild blending and porting in the bowls and ports after have hogged out the valves seats for the biggger valves

mill head to 0.060" to run low octane (9:1 comp.)

MP mechanical pushrods kit and cut to fit with new valves and milled head (can make them about 0.15-0.2" shorter than stock)

MP 276 deg./0.490" lift or 268 deg./0.460" lift Cam for the street car. (might be able to idle down to 700-800 rpm with about 16-18 deg. initial timing advance)

clifford 4bb manifold

edelbrock 500 cfm 4bbl with electronic choke

clifford headers with 2" duals

drop oil pan and pickup 1.-1.5" for extra 1-2 quart capacity

use stock electronic distributor with following advance curve : 15-20 deg. at idle, full mechanical = 30 deg. in by 2200 ROM ( Vacum disconnected. use vacum advance cansiter marked 6.5 or 9 or maybe 10.5

OOOR

MSD 6A with blaster coil recommended

Mopar orange box is cheaper with '70 and up voltage regulator.


:lurk:
 
Good Question, Mine was just rebuilt, well 4 yrs ago, and just sat. It only has 1000 miles on it, the car had brand new, not a spec of dust on it, 6/03 tags on it.

Runs great. I plan to do a 360/390 hp crate motor swap in the future. But for now. I kinda had the same question.

Has anyone ran chambered pipe on a slant six? Does it sound really bad?

I rememeber a Chrysler Dealer around here ran a 4.0 Jeep at the drags, it sounded really strange, not bad really.

I would like to do that clifford set up also.
 
GermzD74 said:
I sent charlie an email and depending on what and how he answer me is what i'll do.

I hope he gives me a pretty good plan.

:blob:
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Did I answer your e-mail? I don't remember it. If I didn't e-mail me again, and I'll try to help. flturbo6(at)aol.com.
 
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