What's the best way to replace the Cluster Voltage regulator?

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Dodgex2

Dodgex2

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Hi Guys, both the engine temp and fuel guage are inop, from reading on here seems to be the Cluster Voltage regulator. During replacement I want to lube the speedo cable. Is it best to pull the whole cluster to replace it? The car is a 75 Dart Sport. Thanks all, Matt
 
I would. If it was mine I would also do the transistorized regulator upgrade as well. Makes the gauges work solid as a ROCK.
 
I had already ordered a regulator by the time I got the info on the "modern" style....damn

Put the new one in and still no temp or fuel guages. There was a black wire that I believe plugs in behind it and along side the horizonal prong (is that correct?) That is where I plugged it in at least. The new regulator seemed a little loose compared to the old one. I wiggled it around it did not help.

Anybody have a pic where that black wire went, I'm pretty sure I got it right but just want to be sure. Any ideas? Thanks Matt
 
The little black wire is coming from the noise suppressor. It should go with the limiter in the 12 volt slot. It isn't required for the limiter to operate though.
I should mention, Nothing about the panel will function properly while it dangles from the harness connectors. A chassis ground is required and adding a ground wire is recommended.
 
Great info thanks Redfish. Yeah I checked it cluster in. The ground wire is a good idea I'll put one in in the morning. So the black wire goes in the same slot as the horizonal (ign) prong? I really should have looked closer before pulling it out....dumb. Thanks for the help, Matt
 
the horizontal slot the 12 volt in from ignition. I repeat, you dont need it. All it is meant to do is ground away the arc of the contacts so it doesn't create a pop noise in the radio speakers. The lack of it will not prevent the limiter from working. On the other hand , a bad (shorted internally) suppressor could prevent the limiter from working.
 
Thanks Redfish, I'm going to put the ground wire on today. Hope that will take care of it. Matt
 
Do you guys remember what the name is of the place that was making those complete guage panels with the built in digital regulator? I remember reading about them but cant recall who sold them
 
Put in the ground wire, still nothing. The only power I have to the cluster is turn signal lights and the amp meter. ??? Any ideas? I need to check power to the regulator perhaps. I should have 12 volts at the ign slot, will I get that with the cluster out? Thanks all, Matt
 
If you have 12 volts at the limiter and its grounded properly your should have voltage out of it to the gauges. If not the limiter is the problem. If you have voltage out to the gauges and they dont respond, they must be the problem.
 
Still working at it,

I pulled the cluster back out today and checked the voltage into the limiter it was at 12. Checked the ground I put on it was good. For the ground I just removed a screw from the back of the cluster and ran a wire to the dash. Is that good enough, is there a prefered way to ground the cluster? With both guages reading dead nothing In thinking it has to be a power issue.

Just to be sure I did ground the temp sending unit wire to see if the sending unit might be the problem.

Is there a way to check my new limiter to see if it is bad?

Any trouble shooting tips would be greatly appreciated :banghead:

Thanks, Matt
 
The copper trace on the circuit board carries the low voltage from the limiter to one post of each gauge. If you dont have low voltage out the limiter isn't working.
 
It shouldn't be an issue to check that with the cluster hanging should it? Thanks for the quick reply
 
If the chassis ground is connected you can power it up. Beware those amp gauge wires.
 
Ok so I went to check the limiter output to the guages and I found I keep blowing #6 3 amp fuse. I thought it just powered the brake and oil light set but as soon as I replaced it and pugged the limiter in it blew again....ugh.

So I'm guessing I have a short somewhere? Anyone had this happen before?

It just keeps getting better :-(
 
What kind of terminal did you use under a screw for your grond wire. The copper traces are close together. If that wire terminal should be contacting another trace, there's your short.
 
I ran the ground wire to the cluster housing not a ground copper trace. Feeling kinda dumb.....
So I'm guessing my ground sucks and is not the source of my short?
I just want to say thanks again Redfish you have been a big help. Matt
 
no. sounds like your ground is good. I was just guessing . Pics always help.
There isn't a ground copper trace. I suspected you wire was shorted to a positive copper trace and blowing the fuse. That fuse is for all the dash lights and should not be effected by a limiter.
 
So your saying that the fuse should have nothing to do with the limiter? When that fuse is blown I get no power to the limiter. I attached pics, one of the ground wire. The other of the new limiter. It has an extra prong I'm pointing to whats it for? Thanks, Matt
 

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I should go back and retract statements concerning the blown fuse.
I know the limiter gets direct feed from ignition switch in some models but that may not hold true for all.
 
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