'74 Dart, 225 /6, A904. Leaks badly at the pan gasket and shift shaft seal and will be replacing soon. As long as I'm going to be in there, I'd like to address a couple of other issues. I am NOT a transmission man so forgive me if I ask some dumb questions. Tried to get Aamco to "service" the transmission, thereby getting the leaky pan gasket replaced, but they refused to do anything unless they rebuilt it due these other issues. They also wanted $1400 just for labor, not counting parts. Anyway, here's my symptoms: When cold and the engine first started, if I put it in gear it just rolls down the hill. Once I let it warm up, it kicks into gear but growls and shudders taking off. If I let it warm up, put it in gear, increase the revs a little until I can feel it pulling, and sit that way for 1-2 minutes, then take off, it functions fine. When warmed up, driving on a level road, or a slight grade, everything shifts fine. Start going up a steep grade at low rpms, in drive, it'll start to slip and whine/growl. Downshift to 2nd and it's fine. Peak the hill and level out, shift to drive and it's fine. When warmed up, going up a steep grade from dead stop, it'll growl/whine almost immediately. Put it in 1st and go up it rapidly and it's fine. Halfway up the hill, shift into 2nd, it'll whine/growl/slip. Slack off the gas pedal, growl/slip stops and it's fine. Shift into drive going up the hill it'll whine/growl/slip till you top the hill. When warmed up, going a good speed, hit a steep hill, stay on the gas and keep the rpms up, it's fine. Only seem to slip/growl/whine in situations involving high load at low rpm. While I've got the pan off, and the valve body dropped to replace the seal, is there any adjustments that should/could/need to be made like tightening bands or something? Is my torque converter the problem? If the tranny's dying, how long do you think I have before it's going to need a rebuild/replace. I drive an 80 mile round trip to work/day on the same road at the same time and the same speed every day. Any and all input or advice is greatly appreciated!
What's the growling from my A904?
- Thread starter sargentrs
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Woods74
Enlightened Senior
Aamco well known are crooks, they are the reason I build my own, turning myself into a transmission man. Just for a guiding star, a quality rebuild kit is $150. You can do one in your kitchen. A hi-po rebuild should be no more than $700. But I'm telling ya, you'll be kicking yourself once you find out how damn simple these are to deal with. It's stupid.
With that said, when you drop the pan, see how much, if any black goop is in the bottom of the pan. Adjust the bands per spec, make sure the linkage is nice and tight.
With that said, when you drop the pan, see how much, if any black goop is in the bottom of the pan. Adjust the bands per spec, make sure the linkage is nice and tight.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
The slipping when cold is a common problem with older torqueflite's. It's called torque converter drain back. When the car is not in use the fluid drains out of the converter into the pan so when you first start it up it wont' go anywhere until the converter refills. If you start the car, put it in neutral for 30 seconds it'll fill the converter and it should take right off.
As for the growling my only guess is a broken motor mount letting the engine tilt up and the fan is hitting the shroud
When you service it you should adjust the bands. The front band gets torqued to 72 inch lbs. then backed off 2-1/2 turns then lock the locknut. Make sure the adjuster doesn't move when you tighten the locknut. There were 2 types of rear bands used on the 904 and each one has a different adjustment spec. My guess is since it's a /6 it'll be a solid band and you torque the adjuster to 72 inch lbs then back it off 2 turns and lock the locknut.
You might want to look into a good transmission service manual. The ATSG manuals are decent and you can get them at Amazon pretty cheap.
BTW: $1400 for just labor is freakin outrageous. I understand places have to make money to stay in business but they don't need to rob people to do so. I'd tell Aamco to take a hike
As for the growling my only guess is a broken motor mount letting the engine tilt up and the fan is hitting the shroud
When you service it you should adjust the bands. The front band gets torqued to 72 inch lbs. then backed off 2-1/2 turns then lock the locknut. Make sure the adjuster doesn't move when you tighten the locknut. There were 2 types of rear bands used on the 904 and each one has a different adjustment spec. My guess is since it's a /6 it'll be a solid band and you torque the adjuster to 72 inch lbs then back it off 2 turns and lock the locknut.
You might want to look into a good transmission service manual. The ATSG manuals are decent and you can get them at Amazon pretty cheap.
BTW: $1400 for just labor is freakin outrageous. I understand places have to make money to stay in business but they don't need to rob people to do so. I'd tell Aamco to take a hike
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
The motor mounts are there to hold the engine in place. Your engine shouldn't shake much at all just sitting there idling. When I was young and without a lot of the tools I have now whenever I'd get a junkyard engine I'd just set it on the ground and start it up with it just setting there to make sure it ran right and as long as they were running right they'd set still with nothing holding them down. The shaking at idle sounds like a tune-up issue (carb and/or ignition problem) and a whole different problem unrelated to the trans slipping. If it is indeed slipping either it's low on fluid or toasted (or both). When you checked the fluid you are checking it in neutral, correct? Have you done the "sniff the fluid test"? That's where you pull the trans dipstick out and sniff it to see if it smells burned. You also look at it to see what color it is. It should be red. When a trans is pretty well toasted the fluid will be brown and smell burned
Thanks, fishy68! This ol' gal has more issues than Carter's got little pills. Bought her, I should say rescued her, about 6 weeks ago for $500. She was in sad shape. With a little TLC, the madelectrical fix, new Holley 1945 carb, numerous vacuum issues, etc, she's running pretty smooth now. She had so many issues it was hard to tell if the tranny was slipping or she was just running like crap. Now that all the other stuff is smoothed out, it's obvious it's slipping under those conditions. Fluid looks clean, red, feels good and doesn't smell burnt. I have to watch it closely, due to the leak, so she doesn't run low. This being my first Dodge, I was just wondering, while I've got the bottom open, if the bands could/should be adjusted. Thanks to this site and you great members, she's turning into a good, reliable DD.
KickDown
Just a Brit in Germany
If you have the pan off, it wouldn't hurt to change the filter & readjust the bands.
Front band gets 72 inch/lbs (8Nm) & backed off 2 1/2 turns.
Rear Band gets 72 inch/lbs & backed off 4 turns.
Cheers. Gaz
Front band gets 72 inch/lbs (8Nm) & backed off 2 1/2 turns.
Rear Band gets 72 inch/lbs & backed off 4 turns.
Cheers. Gaz
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Glad to help. Yes you should always adjust the bands when you change the fluid and filter. I guess you missed it in my earlier post but in post #3 I mentioned adjusting the bands and how there's 2 types of rear bands. You gotta make sure what one you got cause the adjustment is different for each. Re-read post #3 and you'll see what I said. Here's a picture of each so you can identify what rear band you have. First pic is a single wrap band, second is the double wrap
Just as a side note, here's what the service manual says for band adjustments. I'll be sure and check which type of bands I have but I believe that 2nd band photo related to the A904-LA in models with the 318ci engine. I should be good with the standard specs in the spec photo. I love how the manual references special TOOL C-3380-A and Adapter C-3705 and you think, crap! So you go looking for them and find out it's an inch/pound torque wrench and a square socket.:???:
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