Wheel Hub question

[equium]

During a rotation, was informed by Big-O that right front wheel had a loose outer race.
I have some new hubs in transit (thanks 72Dart). While waiting, I have removed the hub. I confirmed the race was loose. Oh Boy was it loose. I would never had installed it like that since I know better. Just wondering what could cause this? Also, there is a ridge in the outer part where the bearing goes. I can't recall if the ridge was there upon install. Can someone look at the pics and tell me if the ridges are normal.
thanks
Danny
On edit: 1970 Valiant, 318, Scarebird disk upgrade, formerly 10" drums

 

[AJ/FormS]

Race spun. Probably got hot, or a previous seizure.
Somewhat common on 9 inchers.
On a DB conversion, possibly the disc couldn't get rid of the heat fast enough and some got into the hub. The grease will tell the story. Regular grease is just a soap and oil conglomeration. When it gets hot the two tend to separate. Then you get a cavity with liquid oil in it, and a cacky soap clunk/glob/IDK whatchamacallit. Sometimes the oil goes on vacation. Soap is a lousy wheel bearing grease/coolant. So the cycle continues, to catastrophic failure. You seem to be lucky. You should package your luck and ship some of it to BigB. lol.

 

[TrailBeast]

It's common for that to happen as AJ explained (not cool, but common)
When I had one that did that if I couldn't find a replacement, I would use a sharp punch and put a ding about 1/4 inch apart and three rows of them all around the race contact area, and then install the race using red locktite.
I never had one ever come loose again, but it's a bit more of a pain to change the race next time.

 

[equium]

Race spun. Probably got hot, or a previous seizure.
Somewhat common on 9 inchers.
On a DB conversion, possibly the disc couldn't get rid of the heat fast enough and some got into the hub. The grease will tell the story. Regular grease is just a soap and oil conglomeration. When it gets hot the two tend to separate. Then you get a cavity with liquid oil in it, and a cacky soap clunk/glob/IDK whatchamacallit. Sometimes the oil goes on vacation. Soap is a lousy wheel bearing grease/coolant. So the cycle continues, to catastrophic failure. You seem to be lucky. You should package your luck and ship some of it to BigB. lol.

Thanks AJ. So the ridge is "not" normal?
I didn't know there were differences in grease. I'll be sure to buy "top shelf" grease.
And since you brought it up, does anyone know of a post talking about the differences of the 9,10 and 11" brakes. The scarebird system I bought was for the 10". I know this was correct because I measured the drums at one point. What option would generate the installation of 11" drums on our cars? Bigger engine?
Thanks

 

[equium]

It's common for that to happen as AJ explained (not cool, but common)
When I had one that did that if I couldn't find a replacement, I would use a sharp punch and put a ding about 1/4 inch apart and three rows of them all around the race contact area, and then install the race using red locktite.
I never had one ever come loose again, but it's a bit more of a pain to change the race next time.

I has bought some red locktite with the anticipation of cleaning it up and reusing (and I'd have a set of spare hubs).
But the race was too loose. I would say if you cut a thin strip off a credit card, it would have fit into the space between the race and hub.

So, if heat is the issue, would drilled and/or slotted rotors be the answer? the Scarebird system uses rotors from a toyota previa and they do have drilled/slotted rotors available.

 

[AJ/FormS]

No the ridge is not normal. Some manufacturers have a machined step there;the lower bore receiving the bearing, while the upper/outer bore receives the grease cup. I don't recall the 10 inch hubs being that way. In any case the outer bore would be larger than the inner bore, and would be commonly called a step. A ridge impies that the inner bore is larger than the outer bore, and that would make it impossible to install the race.
For street duty, your DB set-up is more than adequate. A good quality grease, proper adjustment, free caliper ways, and freely moving caliper pistons should be right on. I set the bearing adjustment to the loose side of the spec. On fixed caliper systems like my KHers,this lets the spinning rotor "knock back" the piston a few thousands, and let's the wheel spin free with no brakepad drag. On a floating caliper system this may not be as effective, but I still do it; leaves a bit of space for the hot grease to find.
Four wheel 11 inch drums, on a streeter,IMO would be overkill. In fact a 9incher in the back,running unproportioned would probably work just fine. A front DB in the 10 to 11 in diameter, should be just fine. If you need more stopping power, a switch to a grippier pad might satisfy your needs. I am talking street-duty, and occasional track time with typically sub-400 HP. If you are trapping 120plus mph and running back to back, and with a short shut-down area,well then, more brakes should be considered. But for typical streeters, your sizing is lots.
Plus the 11 inch system is HEAVY.

 

[TrailBeast]

Also, if you use HD disc brake grease it's a lot tougher than regular grease.
Some even have fibers in them to help hold the grease in place when it gets real hot.
The stuff I use on the entire front end (ball joints and everything) is called Red & Tacky and has a 540 degree melt point.
It stays in place even with hedder tubes close to the joints.

 

[equium]

No the ridge is not normal. Some manufacturers have a machined step there;the lower bore receiving the bearing, while the upper/outer bore receives the grease cup. I don't recall the 10 inch hubs being that way. In any case the outer bore would be larger than the inner bore, and would be commonly called a step. A ridge impies that the inner bore is larger than the outer bore, and that would make it impossible to install the race.
For street duty, your DB set-up is more than adequate. A good quality grease, proper adjustment, free caliper ways, and freely moving caliper pistons should be right on. I set the bearing adjustment to the loose side of the spec. On fixed caliper systems like my KHers,this lets the spinning rotor "knock back" the piston a few thousands, and let's the wheel spin free with no brakepad drag. On a floating caliper system this may not be as effective, but I still do it; leaves a bit of space for the hot grease to find.
Four wheel 11 inch drums, on a streeter,IMO would be overkill. In fact a 9incher in the back,running unproportioned would probably work just fine. A front DB in the 10 to 11 in diameter, should be just fine. If you need more stopping power, a switch to a grippier pad might satisfy your needs. I am talking street-duty, and occasional track time with typically sub-400 HP. If you are trapping 120plus mph and running back to back, and with a short shut-down area,well then, more brakes should be considered. But for typical streeters, your sizing is lots.
Plus the 11 inch system is HEAVY.

Thanks AJ. I just read your updated post. My son's valiant is just a daily driver. nothing special or racing involved. I've been happy with the scarebird conversion.
I've been doing some reading/research while sitting here watching the 49'ers get spanked and I think I found the answer to my front drum question:
9" were for the slant 6 cars
10" were for the V8 cars
11" were for taxis (as stated by my 1972 plymouth,chrylser,Imperial service manual)