Wheel questions/68 Barracuda Coupe

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Inspector71

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My 68 Barracuda has been in storage since 1986. I bought it from a salvage yard in California. It is a 225 slant six, UU1 blue with black interiror, column shift automatic. The drive train is gone and it is almost rust free and needs no sheet metal work anywhere only a paint job and drive train. When I have the money, a 360 engine will go in the car. Obviously the drive shaft and rear will have to be changed. I apologize for asking what has probably been asked many times (and I did a search first) so if you can be patient, I have the following question.

Does this car most likely have the 4" instead of 4.5" bolt pattern?
I am interested in the chrome rallye wheels. Would these take a trim ring as well as the argent colored version?
Year One sells these wheels along with several other vendors. I read on another Mopar forum that Vintique wheels were not good and customer service bad. Year 1 carries these wheels. Is that correct information or are they okay?
Some of the Disc brake conversion kits state a 15" wheel must be used. Are there kits if I want to stay with the 14" wheel instead?
I tried to measure the bolt distance from the outside of the wheel and it was not too accurate. Do I need to take the wheel off and measure from the outside of the designated hole to the the middle of the other specified hole (I have the diagram) or from the edge of the designated stud to the other stud?

Thanks for the help. This car has sat too long but a move from California, children born, two more moves, divorce from one of the queens of the damned, two more moves, remarriage, two more kids...you get the message.
 
You shouldn't need to remove a wheel to get the bolt pattern. Just use the pattern chart you have and measure as directed on the studs. The rear is easier to measure since tou don't have the long hub sticking out. As far as Wheel Vintiques I haven't had any issues personally. If you go with the chrome rally wheels all the trim rings would do is mess up the cgrome so I would say no on trim rings. I don't think they would look good on a chrome rally any way.

If you stick with the same sytle transmission and the factory rear end the dive shaft wouldn't need redone unless it was damaged. When you upgrade the rear end is where the drive shaft redo comes in to play.
 
The 68 Cuda notchback came with 5 on 4" bolt pattern. Measure from the top of a stud (or lug hole on the rim if off the car )to the middle of one across from it (skipping one) and it should measure 4" to the center of the hole.

I also have a 68 coupe with a 225 slant six that I am converting to a 4 barrell with split headers and dual exhaust.
 
Thanks for the reply and I was thinking the same thing. Would there be any disadvantage to staying with the smaller 4" bolt pattern or, considering I am going to change the rear to the 8.75 sure grip, it'll have to be changed anyway?
 
Thanks for the reply. That was a big help. I am going down to measure again. I am sure it is the 4" but the only way to learn is to do. If not for this forum, I wouldn't have the nerve to start this project. I have a 66 Valiant convertible, 3 on a tree 225 slant six. I love the slant six (my first car was a push button AT slant six 63 Valiant I wish I still had). When I get to the Valiant, I might go with the 4-barrel and header pipe too.
 
Inspector71 said:
Thanks for the reply and I was thinking the same thing. Would there be any disadvantage to staying with the smaller 4" bolt pattern or, considering I am going to change the rear to the 8.75 sure grip, it'll have to be changed anyway?
Click to expand...

The only real disadvantages are
1. Lack of wheel choices but that won't matter if you are going with Rally wheels since sbp is available.
2. Brake shoes are narrower than the later cars.
3. Disc brakes are getting hard to find on both but the original KH have 4 piston calipers. Many car manufactures have been coming back to the style.

Does you car have 9" or 10" drums?

I have 10" and am converting to the KH disc brakes. I have never had issues stopping but I am not a hot rodder/racer either. I do drive my cars the way they were intended.
 
If you go disc in the front use the Kelsey Hayes dual piston calipers they are
4" on 5" pattern and 14" wheels clear them
 
At this point, I want to print all these threads for a how to book. I know a lot less than I thought and you guys have really helped me. Great advice. I want a fast ride but I'm not a racer or hot rodder either. I would love to drive my car to work every day. I'm not sure the brake drum size yet. Guess I can figure that out tomorrow. How do I measure? I didn measure the rear wheel the way you all explained it and yep, 4" bolt pattern. Would it be a real mistake to stay with drums? I suspect mine are 9 inch. I was looking at the Strange Dana60 axle set up and they are 11" if I'm not mistaken. Again. you have given me valuable advice.
 
I should be working on my Mopars (68 Barracuda, 68 Dodge Charger, 66 Plymouth Valiant convertible) too but I am learning so much here. My kids keep asking me why none of my cars have engines. Ha ha . Thanks for the advice. Guess I should join the disc brake revolution. Would the 15" wheels look kind of big and or be kind of heavy for a 68 Barracuda?
 
Inspector71 said:
I should be working on my Mopars (68 Barracuda, 68 Dodge Charger, 66 Plymouth Valiant convertible) too but I am learning so much here. My kids keep asking me why none of my cars have engines. Ha ha . Thanks for the advice. Guess I should join the disc brake revolution. Would the 15" wheels look kind of big and or be kind of heavy for a 68 Barracuda?
Click to expand...

No they look good and open up more tire choices.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
No they look good and open up more tire choices.
Click to expand...

I agree the 15" would be a better choice. Then you could use the 73 and up disc brakes they are easier to find and usually less money than the Kelsey Hayes
Or after market set ups
 
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