When to use an Engine Girdle on a Mopar Small Block???

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greymouser7

greymouser7

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How much power (HP or torque) do you have to make with your Mopar small block to consider using an 'Engine Girdle'? Is it worth anything at all before those power levels? When does some of this stuff slip into the snake oil category?
Obviously, most of us can see the necessity of this item on a high output big block...

I am guessing this is only a consideration for the stroker engines?

people talk about max output on blocks, aftermarket blocks, older casting big blocks vice late seventies big blocks weighing more than many of the older castings...

stock small blocks last up to ...? :_______

older 340, (1970-74) 360 blocks that can be bore (d?) out more so inherently stronger.... to what level? :____

the books then talk about the initial Xblocks, r1's, r3's, r5's p hemi blocks...
...the new 340 replacement block (up to .080 overbore...)
 
In my opinion, if you need a girdle, you need a better block. There are very few engineered differences in factory blocks of ANY discplacement because the casting quality sucked. A factory block, sonic tested with enough meat in the right paces aroudn the bore, fitted with aftermarket 2 bolt caps on mains 1-4, can make 550hp and will live for as long as any other stroked engine will. If you feel you need more strength than that, buy a better block. You'll eitehr spend to upgrade something that was never designed to do that job, or you can spend on initial cost and get something that is. It's the whole cost vs return deal once you start talking about girdles and IMO, there's not enough return to justify it.
 
i say put it in all engine it ties all the mains together making it way stronger and less lose of horse power do to main cap flex and its a good oil scraper which frees up power. all around good product and even if i had a stronger block i would put it in stroker or not.
 
when it comes to stock blocks
in anything 4'' stroke at 7k or better IMO

or in anything 4.125 6500 or better.

but you'd have to do both with and without to really know...
 
I think moper is correct but having said that I bought one for my new stroker. I was on the fence about it, not really sure if they do anything but they can't hurt. An R3 block would be nice but it's totally out of my range right now and since I am planning on making around 650-670 HP I figured I'd rather have it than not. But I don't think it's a cure for a weak block, a bandaid at best that will hopefully buy me some time so I can save for an R3.
 
I say use one (I have one on my 340). Take a look the bottom end of some of these newer engines. They have them from the factory with some of them even forged onto the main caps. Clearly it does help in some way, otherwise why do they put it on. I look at girdles like they are condoms. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it. Basically im trying to say is that if they make a girdle for the engine I'm rebuilding, it gets a girdle (100 bucks isn't worth an entire engine).
 
1970Duster said:
I say use one (I have one on my 340). Take a look the bottom end of some of these newer engines. They have them from the factory with some of them even forged onto the main caps. Clearly it does help in some way, otherwise why do they put it on. I look at girdles like they are condoms. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it. Basically im trying to say is that if they make a girdle for the engine I'm rebuilding, it gets a girdle (100 bucks isn't worth an entire engine).
Click to expand...


Modern engines are designed with a girdle in mind. Dont get me wrong, I didn't say they don't do something. I said on a block designed in the Eisenhower years they are a csotly attempt to help it live. But with a race block prep going close to $3K without a girdle and that engine's budget at least $10K, along your same lines... Why would you not spend another $500-600 over that $3K to get a much better foundation, that comes with good caps, and comes with thick decks and bores? An aftermarket block has rebuilds in it. A .030 over factory block, with all the tweaks, is going to be junk when it's worn out. That's my logic anyway.
 
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