When you pay $1200 for an AAR hood, you expect more from Stinger Fiberglass

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For some reason around 1990 most of the aftermarket automotive fiberglass seamed to move to Florida, I don’t know if it was one company producing for or under multiple labels but what took six weeks now took six months and quality was ****. I know there’s still a lot of glass coming out of Florida but why Florida I don’t.
 
Oldiron440 said:
For some reason around 1990 most of the aftermarket automotive fiberglass seamed to move to Florida, I don’t know if it was one company producing for or under multiple labels but what took six weeks now took six months and quality was ****. I know there’s still a lot of glass coming out of Florida but why Florida I don’t.
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Boats.
Boating drives most of the fiberglass business, especially the cheap not-structurally-critical stuff.
 
Got a free tape gun with my delivery... Other than the scratches it seems fine. Will fit it after I get the top end back on the engine.

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to me that explains a lot i do not think you are really on top of your products quality then do this careless, incompetent act.
 
Phreakish said:
Boats.
Boating drives most of the fiberglass business, especially the cheap not-structurally-critical stuff.
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Makes sense, but we sell plenty of fiberglass boats here in Missouri (Tracker is right down the road) and there aren't any auto fiberglass companies around here?
Oh, that's right. Our regional manufacturing prowess is meth.
 
74Scooter said:
Got a free tape gun with my delivery... Other than the scratches it seems fine. Will fit it after I get the top end back on the engine.

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Those scratches are perfectly acceptable to Stinger, and they'll tell you that their hoods are an unfinished product that needs prep/paint, i.e. sanding, filler, and prime before paint. At least that's what they told me, and it actually does say that on their website.
 
the ups man just dropped of a big box of 2 bumpers a front and rear for a duster that i bought in the classifieds from rat rod al. they came from florida without a scratch, perfect shape no bubbles or divots in the gelcoat. total cost including shipping 275 dollars now let's compare this to the bumpers i bought a year ago from AAR ,scratched to hell, bubbles and divots all over in gelcoat tried to cover up with body filler which had to be stripped and redone just over all lousy quality bumpers total cost 660 dollars, but the one thing that was right is the new name stinger fiberglass, i got stung
 
jos51700 said:
Makes sense, but we sell plenty of fiberglass boats here in Missouri (Tracker is right down the road) and there aren't any auto fiberglass companies around here?
Oh, that's right. Our regional manufacturing prowess is meth.
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FL is on the ocean, and full of people who guy high-end, custom boats. That, plus a pro-business take on the economy with lax regulation on things like VOCs and chemicals makes it a destination for manufacturers.
Selling boats is a different game than making boats. Most places with lakes and rivers sell plenty of boats, but not the type that makes for a heavy manufacturing presence.
 
My hood arrived yesterday, for the most part it is alright with superficial scratches. Having ordered a hood from AAR 12 or so years ago, I have to say the packaging quality is lacking. My previous hood was absolutely pristine upon arrival.

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And this is how they used to be boxed, although the owner argued with me about it on the phone yesterday saying they never used foam.
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And by the time the smoke cleared, in Canada, one of these hoods to your door is $1725CDN dollars.
 
cpearce said:
My hood arrived yesterday, for the most part it is alright with superficial scratches. Having ordered a hood from AAR 12 or so years ago, I have to say the packaging quality is lacking. My previous hood was absolutely pristine upon arrival.

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Be sure to post back on fitment, this was the main reason (despite complaints about them from others) why I ordered mine from them.
 
Quick follow up on fiberglass hoods in general for the crowd. I ordered mine with provision for the hood latch figuring if I don't use it... no harm. I have pins installed currently and I use them with the hood latch on the bulge hood.

What combination is everyone else using? Pins only... latch only? If pins only... do you leave the spring in to maintain some pressure of just adjust the bump stops?
 
I have a glass 6-pack hood on my 72 Demon. No springs on the hinges and no spring on the rad support. It gas pins on it to hold it down in front but also still has the primary and secondary latches.

You can see in the pic where the secondary latch rubbed the paint off. The pins hold it tight to the stock hood bumpers. Hope this helps!

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Demonx2 said:
I have a glass 6-pack hood on my 72 Demon. No springs on the hinges and no spring on the rad support. It gas pins on it to hold it down in front but also still has the primary and secondary latches.

You can see in the pic where the secondary latch rubbed the paint off. The pins hold it tight to the stock hood bumpers. Hope this helps!

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Yup... looks like it works well for ya. I'm not hot to trot to drill the holes for the pins yet so I will likely use the primary and secondary latches out of the gate so I'm not running around without a hood too long. I have a set of Harwood 210 springs for the hinges I'm going to try out. If they bow the hood I'll likely just roll without springs as well.

Thanks 4 the reply!
 
74Scooter said:
Yup... looks like it works well for ya. I'm not hot to trot to drill the holes for the pins yet so I will likely use the primary and secondary latches out of the gate so I'm not running around without a hood too long. I have a set of Harwood 210 springs for the hinges I'm going to try out. If they bow the hood I'll likely just roll without springs as well.

Thanks 4 the reply!
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Use springs out of an 80's Daytona, perfect weight for glass hoods.
 
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