The VR 706
Where does this electrical box go?
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
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99% done. And
Let's be honest, is there really ever a 100% done car? LMAO!
Also thanks for the suggestion on the 6 pack bracket idea. I made one up that fits the Weiand. The bracket and coil are red like the engine so look close and you'll see it.
Let's be honest, is there really ever a 100% done car? LMAO!
Also thanks for the suggestion on the 6 pack bracket idea. I made one up that fits the Weiand. The bracket and coil are red like the engine so look close and you'll see it.
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LOL, thanks. It is a TSP coil from Pace Performance that according to our member/resident Pace Performance employee, it will be fine.
Id like, if you could, to see your set up and how it is wired up.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Heres my alternator setup. Its an internally regulated denso mini 50A. I homemade my own mount brackets, made a spacer tube from alt to cylinder head out of a piece of cut down steel tube, and a SAAB 340 aircraft overhead bin spacer.
I upgraded output wire to 8GA. Bypassed ammeter and ran alternator output direct to battery w a 12ga fusable link. When doing this setup, you just connect both voltage regulator wires together on the firewall and tuck them into the harness.
Check out the ammeter bypass schematics below. Schematic #2 shows bypass. I opted to run the wiring thru the bulkhead cavities with new crimped and soldered packard 56 terminals.
I upgraded output wire to 8GA. Bypassed ammeter and ran alternator output direct to battery w a 12ga fusable link. When doing this setup, you just connect both voltage regulator wires together on the firewall and tuck them into the harness.
Check out the ammeter bypass schematics below. Schematic #2 shows bypass. I opted to run the wiring thru the bulkhead cavities with new crimped and soldered packard 56 terminals.
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Yup!
As of right now my alternator has two fields. Since I have the stock system in place, one of the fields must be grounded. Correct? I grounded one of the fields to the bolt at the fulcrum point that goes into the cylinder head. They should be OK, correct? Or should I go to the body? In the past I have seen it going to the body. I figured the cylinder head would be OK.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I used a universal mini denso with a T shaped plug. Ignition hot green wire from the old voltage regulator firewall wire goes to terminal I on the denso.
Terminal L on the mini denso is for a fault lamp. Not needed, however easy to wire up. Terminal L shunts to ground and lights the fault light when a fault occurs such as alt off line, or during ign start.
I added the fault light to my ammeter gage when i converted it to volts. I used a 12V mini LED, drilled a small hole with a #50 drill, and glued it in place w JB weld. I wired the + side to the + terminal on the 12V input to the volt gage and output directly to terminal L on the denso.
In this way the fault lamp always has power when ign sw is in on or run position. And shunts to ground causing the lamp to light until the alternator comes on line after engine start. When alternator comes on line, fault lamp contactor opens inside voltage regulator, lamp goes out.
Terminal L on the mini denso is for a fault lamp. Not needed, however easy to wire up. Terminal L shunts to ground and lights the fault light when a fault occurs such as alt off line, or during ign start.
I added the fault light to my ammeter gage when i converted it to volts. I used a 12V mini LED, drilled a small hole with a #50 drill, and glued it in place w JB weld. I wired the + side to the + terminal on the 12V input to the volt gage and output directly to terminal L on the denso.
In this way the fault lamp always has power when ign sw is in on or run position. And shunts to ground causing the lamp to light until the alternator comes on line after engine start. When alternator comes on line, fault lamp contactor opens inside voltage regulator, lamp goes out.
Wow! Nice! Thank you. What model alternator is that? From what year make model vehicle? Thanks
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yes what did that come off of. Enquiring minds want to know. Clean install w stock brackets.
Alternator is a Denso 210-0106
Used on 1986 or earlier Toyota truck. It's 60amp, but there are 120amp ones available. I got it with a lifetime warranty from autozone for like $65, don't remember exactly. The bracketry might resemble OEM, but it's from Mancini racing for this conversion. The loom cover is F6.
Denso 60 amp Alternator Kit
Techflex - Flexo F6 Semi-Rigid Wraparound Braided Sleeving
Used on 1986 or earlier Toyota truck. It's 60amp, but there are 120amp ones available. I got it with a lifetime warranty from autozone for like $65, don't remember exactly. The bracketry might resemble OEM, but it's from Mancini racing for this conversion. The loom cover is F6.
Denso 60 amp Alternator Kit
Techflex - Flexo F6 Semi-Rigid Wraparound Braided Sleeving
Dude! Awesome! Thanks a bunch. And the links.
I tried the new VR706 and it failed instantly. So, I'm going to guess my ground wire isn't doing its job.
1 step forward 2 steps back.
Today's count, 0 for 2.
(Yea, that's 4 steps back for my day!)
I tried the new VR706 and it failed instantly. So, I'm going to guess my ground wire isn't doing its job.
1 step forward 2 steps back.
Today's count, 0 for 2.
(Yea, that's 4 steps back for my day!)
Ugh! Just read it is for passenger side water pumps only.
I'm running the stock '67
Front driverside water pump.
Is it still doable?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
The universal mini denso i got is a smaller diameter than the toyota alternator. It may work better, but the downside is you need to fab your own brackets
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