Where's my electrical gremlins? Wont start!

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The top two connectors are the ones I was referring to, looks like non--original wiring?

You'll have to determine which is the NSS and which is from the key with a test lamp.

You should be able to tell -- one should go down behind the engine (the one you want to disconnect and ground) and the other should come through the bulkhead. (Leave it connected)
 
Okay, I got three of my best guys on it!! We'll be back with the results soon. :rolleyes:
 

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I'm the owner of the truck and I'm at a loss! I tried clip leading the terminal, seems the NSS is doing its proper job. Also jumpered the orange wire(the ignition run wire) to the battery using the relay, and it started then as well, proving the relay to be good. Could it be an intermittent/bad ignition switch? checked connections in bulkhead and everything also seems to be fine. The thing that confuses me is that messing with the lights will eventually start it if i turn the key and try to start it at the same time. Any other suggestions? HELP! :/
 
Bigblocked440 said:
I'm the owner of the truck and I'm at a loss! I tried clip leading the terminal, seems the NSS is doing its proper job. Also jumpered the orange wire(the ignition run wire) to the battery using the relay, and it started then as well, proving the relay to be good. Could it be an intermittent/bad ignition switch? checked connections in bulkhead and everything also seems to be fine. The thing that confuses me is that messing with the lights will eventually start it if i turn the key and try to start it at the same time. Any other suggestions? HELP! :/
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welcome. i had a similar issue in that i had no power to the key. i thought the ignition switch was bad. it turned out that my starter relay was not getting a ground. it is very possible the ignition switch is to blame but just because the NSS appears to be ok doesnt mean the starter relay is getting its ground. on the firewall, unplug the NSS wiring coming from the trans. it should be a 3 prong female plug. at the plug in from the main harness, take a jumper wire and short out the connector or plug in a similar connector and tie the bare wires together then try starting it at the key.

it sounds like something is not adequately grounded
 
like clip leading it? Like taking a wire from the nss plug on the relay and grounding it on something else? Yeah i definatly agree with you on the ground idea.
 
Bigblocked440 said:
like clip leading it? Like taking a wire from the nss plug on the relay and grounding it on something else? Yeah i definatly agree with you on the ground idea.
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yes. exactly. a really good ground is needed there. just make sure it is park because now it will start in any gear
 
Sounds like you have an intermittent?

Once again here's the trick on the relay. In your photo, the two top terminals are what you need to check out. They are the magnetic coil of the relay.

Pull one wire loose. With a light or meter, see which wire is hot with the key in "start." Hook this wire back up. It can go to either of the two terminals.

Now you should have the other wire loose, and you should be able to follow it down and verify that it goes to the transmission.

Now take a clip lead and hook to the remaining push on relay terminal (the second of the top two) and the other end to ground.

THIS SHOULD cause the engine to crank in control of the key IN ANY GEAR

If not, you either have a bad connection in the start wire coming from the key (bad connection through bulkhead or at switch connector) or the switch itself is bad.

If it won't crank with the key, then next, move your test light inside and probe the switch connector. Still should be a yellow or yellow/ tracer wire.

I don't have a diagram for your rig, but now would be a great time to verify that the switch is RECEIVING good power, that is, no bad connections between battery and the switch.

So with the switch off and locked, find what wire at the switch connector is hot. Measure that carefully and compare to the battery. It should be very close. Next turn the key to "run" and turn on any loads you can, heater, etc, that are controlled by the IGN switch. Check that incoming voltage to the switch again for drop as compared to the key "off."
 
Thanks guys. Yeah i did what you said before and didnt show up as problematic. ( the nss or wiring in bulkhead) but i will now try checking for voltage drop. And by inside your talking about the start/run wire coming off of the ignition switch? And does anybody know if these igntion switches are grounded amywhere?
 
Bigblocked440 said:
by inside your talking about the start/run wire coming off of the ignition switch? And does anybody know if these igntion switches are grounded amywhere?
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Yes. switch does not need to be grounded, except maybe for unimportant stuff like key finder light whatever the heck that thing is called, or buzzer switch.

But to start and run, no ground needed.
 
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