which 8 3/4 would be best to get cut to a body lengh

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duster731

duster731

young gun
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I am wondering which 8 3/4 would ve best to get it shorten to a body specs because I can pick up a 85 dodge van 8 3/4 posi 3.21 for 100$ right now and a local rear end shop would cut it to a body specs and clean it hot tank, sand blast, and paint for 400 what do you guys think
 
I would check the van very carefully I dont think they used 8 3/4 in 85 more likely is a 9 1/4. But truck and van width 8 3/4 are plenty wide and normally have axles that can be cut and re-splined also. I used one out of a 72 town and country wagon for my 8 3/4 project.
 
The last year any Chrysler had a 8 3/4 in it factory was 1974, that doesnt mean someone couldnt have put one in the van, but it's not original to a 1985. I like to use a truck/van, or C body 8 3/4 for a donor rearend they don't have the tapered shaft's, so they can be cut down easy enough.
 
Ok and would the shock plates, u bolts, the brake lines, and the brakes work as well and is there any difference between a 83/4 and 91/4
 
the 8 3/4 has a "center section" "third member" or whatever else people call it and the gears come out with that. Im a young gun so i never heard of a 9 1/4.
 
ok yep the 9 1/4 has a octagonal stop sign cover shape. No "third member". Also 8 3/4 looks like ford 9in
 
BBody rear will just bolt in and actually gets the rear wheels more in line with the fronts
 
Ya I no the b body rear trick and move the perches in 1/2 how much do the b bodys go for
 
I think I have a 68-70 B body 8.75 housing and axles. Looking $150 if i do.
 
If you are gonna get one to shorten look for a 68 or 9 d100 pickup as it will have a 742 pumpkin and 11" drums.
 
ok well the mopar spring fling is right around the corner i was debating on getting a b body one complete and get it cleaned up and buy new leaf springs and traction bars, or find a truck or c body one for cheap and i have a local rear end shop that would shorten the housing and axles to a body specs plus clean it
 
one more question i know the pumkins are interchangeable but putting a pumpkin from a 8 3/4 van with 3.21 posi into an a body work is the shape of the pumpkin different or u joint position.... thanks
 
Yep that should work fine if it's a 8.75 pumpkin.

Should be a 3.23 not that it matters much.
 
duster731 said:
one more question i know the pumkins are interchangeable but putting a pumpkin from a 8 3/4 van with 3.21 posi into an a body work is the shape of the pumpkin different or u joint position.... thanks
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Just gotta check the yoke for u-joint size.
 
I have a 8.75 out of either a b body or E body for my 73 swinger. how much does it need to be shortened and what is a correct price to pay for something like that to be done? Also, I live in NE ohio so does anyone know of any place close to me that does it for a decent price?
 
pri_i_oh said:
I have a 8.75 out of either a b body or E body for my 73 swinger. how much does it need to be shortened and what is a correct price to pay for something like that to be done? Also, I live in NE ohio so does anyone know of any place close to me that does it for a decent price?
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Call Moser Engineering, they will hook you up, I'm sure there are other shop's that are perfectly capable of doing this for you too, but these guy's aren't going to guess what work's, they know!


View attachment call_moser_callout.png
 
i wish they were a little closer to me....they have a pretty good price for shortening housings. Its says most housings both sides 125.00
 
I sent a Mopar 9.25 axle to Moser for narrowing with 8.75 ends along with new axles. Everything was spot on. Pretty reasonable too. If I were in your shoes I'd use a '66-'70 B-Body rear. Just move the springs in. Lots cheaper!!!!!!
 
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