Which alternator 60A or 46A?

[512Stroker]

I'll make my pitch here for ammeters. IMHO if all you have is a volt gauge then you are missing a key piece of diagnostic equipment on your dash. If the alternator fails or the voltage regulator starts to go, you often have advanced warning on your ammeter in the form of inappropriate charge/discharge or erratic readings, whereas your volt gauge only informs you that the system has failed and you hope you are lucky enough to make it home or the parts store. The parallel, though even worse is the oil warning light as opposed to an oil pressure gauge.

Yes there are weaknesses with the original systems (especially when they are 50 plus years old). My solution is to use a modern ammeter in a gauge cluster under the dash, and to replace and maintain wiring long past it's expiration date.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

[MarvinNioN]

My '71 Dart GT (318, auto, A/C) is in need of an alternator. NAPA shows a 60 AMP or a 46 AMP available. What was the factory alternator rated at?

The car has no extra electrical additions other than AutoMeter electric gauges (water temp, oil pressure & voltage) and a tachometer.

Thoughts?

Do not get a "remanufactured" alternator from a parts store; they're junk. You can get a brand-new Chrysler 46-amp alternator from Wallwork. Get a good new voltage regulator, Standard VR-128 or NAPA Echlin VR-1001. Run a ground wire, 14-gauge, from the "GRD" hole on the back of the alternator to the voltage regulator base and from there to the battery negative terminal.