Which aluminum master cyl for 71 Duster

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340doc

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I searched the posts here and found mixed answers. I want to put one on with the 15/16 bore. I have a non power system with Kelsey Hayes up front. Some posts have said to use the Raybestos MC 39638, available for about $50. Others have said to use the Dr. Diff unit because he mods them to work, at $100. So my question is for anyone who has the Raybestos unit bolted to their car and can say that it actually works like it should. Thanks.
 
I have that Raybestos master cylinder on my 70 Duster with manual single piston calipers, and it works just fine.
 
Thanks glenn, this is the info I'm looking for. How is the pedal pressure and feel?
 
Pedal pressure is feels very normal for Mopar manual brakes. A little on the heavy side, but nothing bad. One buddy couldn't believe it was manual brakes, after driving it he had to check under the hood to confirm there was no booster. Also, you might find that the Raybestos part is actually cast iron rather than aluminum, mine was.
 
Interesting that yours is cast iron, a PN search on Rock auto shows an aluminum one. I'm gonna stop by NAPA. Appreciate your reply.
 
You can buy a $30 adapter plate to mount a later 2-bolt aluminum MC. I used one from a 90's Neon (ABS MC, 7/8"D bore) on my 64 Valiant w/ manual brakes. See post w/ photos showing brake pedal in same place.
 
The part number that 340doc posted is a two bolt plastic reservoir master cylinder. Originally for mid 90's Dakota, with I believe a 24mm bore. There are at least 6, maybe as many as 10 master cylinders that look the same, just with different bore diameters, thread sizes, and some don't have any provision for a manual pushrod. As in, no groove for the rubber ring that retains the pedal pushrod.
 
... some don't have any provision for a manual pushrod. As in, no groove for the rubber ring that retains the pedal pushrod.
Most 1990+ aluminum MC's were for power boosters (any production car w/o a booster since then?), so I expect no provision to lock the pedal rod. But, I did a test-fit of the rod in the Neon MC, using a new rubber bushing (for 1964) on the end of my 64 pushrod, and it fit tight. I then decided to add a rubber dust boot, so removed the rod. I had to beat it out, which tore up the rubber bushing in the process, so I would say it locks into the piston very well, just like in my original 64 MC. Forgot where I bought the bushings, maybe ebay or Booster Dewey.

Regardless, it seems the only way the rod might fall out of the MC would be if the piston hung up in the bore so that the return spring couldn't push it back. The driver would notice the pedal not coming up and have to pull it up. With the rod locked in, that might slide the piston back. If the rubber bushing didn't hold, the piston might stay hung-up and perhaps there is enough clearance for the rod to pop out, but your MC is toast either way. In such an emergency scenario, instead of fooling with the pedal, I would downshift to "1" and go for the e-brake. I use silicone brake fluid, so everything stays pristine inside and can't see my MC piston sticking.
 
Most 1990+ aluminum MC's were for power boosters (any production car w/o a booster since then?), so I expect no provision to lock the pedal rod. But, I did a test-fit of the rod in the Neon MC, using a new rubber bushing (for 1964) on the end of my 64 pushrod, and it fit tight. I then decided to add a rubber dust boot, so removed the rod. I had to beat it out, which tore up the rubber bushing in the process, so I would say it locks into the piston very well, just like in my original 64 MC. Forgot where I bought the bushings, maybe ebay or Booster Dewey.

Regardless, it seems the only way the rod might fall out of the MC would be if the piston hung up in the bore so that the return spring couldn't push it back. The driver would notice the pedal not coming up and have to pull it up. With the rod locked in, that might slide the piston back. If the rubber bushing didn't hold, the piston might stay hung-up and perhaps there is enough clearance for the rod to pop out, but your MC is toast either way. In such an emergency scenario, instead of fooling with the pedal, I would downshift to "1" and go for the e-brake. I use silicone brake fluid, so everything stays pristine inside and can't see my MC piston sticking.
So it seems the only issue is if the pushrod will stay in or not.
 
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