Which Drag shocks for 1/4 racing

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Slantsix64

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Hey guys I’m trying to cut my 60ft down. What’s a good drag shock.
I’m running 13.2 at 104MPH. Currently I have stock kyb shocks

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I'm using the competition engineering adjustable shocks on the front of my Duster. I'm happy with them. I have mine set on 80/20. Great on the streets, works like I want at the track. I have an open 3.23 rear with traction bars and MT 235/60/15's. Dead hooks, even on the street
 
I'm using the competition engineering adjustable shocks on the front of my Duster. I'm happy with them. I have mine set on 80/20. Great on the streets, works like I want at the track. I have an open 3.23 rear with traction bars and MT 235/60/15's. Dead hooks, even on the street
@318willrun if you could take a guess, how much do you think I can cut off my ET with some drag shocks. I will remove the control arm stop bumper as well.My rear shocks are kybs as well
 
In your place, I'd consider rancho/Calvert nine-ways. But I wouldn't expect miracles. I've been using competition engineering 3-ways on a couple of my cars, (low eleven, and high nines). Didn't need exotic shocks, but I use as big a bias slick as I can fit.
Did you get any video when you were at pomona? A good look at the rear axle at launch will tell you what you need to improve.
As asked above, what was your 60ft?
 
I’ll post my time slip once I get home. I believe it was a 1.8 60ft or 1.9
 
@318willrun if you could take a guess, how much do you think I can cut off my ET with some drag shocks. I will remove the control arm stop bumper as well.My rear shocks are kybs as well
Depends on if your spinning. 1st goal is not to spin. 2nd goal not to have the suspension spongy all over on start, in other words put all motion into forward motion. Not lift, ****, twist... BUT, to answer your question, if your not spinning then not much
 

Wallace says ideal 60 for a 13.2 e.t. is a 1.83. And speed is 100.
So your 104 shows there's improvement available to improve e.t., without making more power.
True but can be deceiving. The Op's car has potential with that MPH. True street cars often don't have enough converter or gears to make that statement true. But they have the power to make the MPH. To fully utilize the MPH, the converter and gears would have to be ideal for the 1/4 mile. Really, that's most accurate for drag cars, like bracket cars. Stock eliminator will actually get ahead of the ET for the MPH.
 
Wallace says IDEAL for 104 would be high 12.70s, with a 1.77 60. But this is for a full-on RACE car, with perfect traction, perfect gear ratio and converter, and perfect shift points.
But I guess my point is..... you have enough mph for 12s, what do you need to do to get there?
Post your pomona time slip for our analysis/ help. We'd be happy to!
Edit: 318 will run post #10 posted while I was typing #11. I hadn't seen it, and he's right!
 
Time slip. Thinking of trying a 80/20 front drag shock like the ones @318willrun has. I have summit headers that hang low but my suspension is higher up front with a 205 70 14 front tire. I also have open gears and traction bars

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Couldn't tell by the video, too far away. Are you spinning? Didn't seem like it. You gained 21 mph in the last 1/8, so maybe not enough converter for the cam you are using? That would make the MPH higher for the ET ran. Overall, the ET slip isn't bad from start to finish for a street car. They usually do MPH high for the ET
 
Couldn't tell by the video, too far away. Are you spinning? Didn't seem like it. You gained 21 mph in the last 1/8, so maybe not enough converter for the cam you are using? That would make the MPH higher for the ET ran. Overall, the ET slip isn't bad from start to finish for a street car. They usually do MPH high for the ET
I had a fuel starvation issue on the top end, but it’s been fixed now. So the next time the car hits the cars I’m pretty sure I’ll be in the mid 12s.

The car hooks great out of the 5 times I raced, only 1 time I had some tire spin.
 
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