which efi fuel tank?

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magnumdust

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So today i went to drive my car today and the fuel leak issue i "fixed" decided to return as soon as i filled my car. :banghead: So, i'm done trying to put lipstick on a 40yr old pig, i need to fix this fuel system.

I found a two options online:
http://www.hotrodcitygarage.com/tanks.html

Then this one:
DSC_8673.jpg


I'm not sure of the cost of either. Are there other options?? I was thinking of a fuel cell, but because my car is a fold down seat car, i'd need to build a firewall and i wouldn't be able to use the stock gas filler when i'm at the pump.
 
The cheapest route would be to replace your leaking tank with a new stock one and modify it. These pics are of a new B-body tank I modified for our efi in tank pump.
 

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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuVH7HVEJys"]Installing A FAST™ Universal In-Tank Retro-Fit Fuel Pump Kit - YouTube[/ame]
 
I took the route that's shown in the video. We had an old tank that we used to make the 'door' for the opening in the new tank. We used Permatex #80016 Form-a-gasket sealant along with a cork gasket that we made. - No leaks, - even with the tank turned upside down with fuel in it. We were able to retain the stock sending unit also. New stock a-body tanks are pretty inexpensive, so the worst thing involved was just the labor.
 
I have an idea for my car but it may never happen.
The spare wheel and tire don't fit down in the well anyway so I thought to just delete the spare well and flatten the trunk floor or even raise it a couple inches if necessary.
The space saver spare from the right model Lincoln Town Car would be anchored in there, fuzzy grey cover and all.
The fuel tank in this plan is robbed from a 96 Jeep Cherokee. 15 minutes of measuring suggested it would fit between the A-body frame rails, filler neck close enough to work, etc..
The 6 cylinder version of this Jeep fuel delivery uses only 1 fuel line, pressure regulator at the pump/sender assembly. That single fuel line, along with a quiet electric pump, is the selling point for me.
Until its proven to work its just an idea though.
 
RedFish said:
I have an idea for my car but it may never happen.
The spare wheel and tire don't fit down in the well anyway so I thought to just delete the spare well and flatten the trunk floor or even raise it a couple inches if necessary.
The space saver spare from the right model Lincoln Town Car would be anchored in there, fuzzy grey cover and all.
The fuel tank in this plan is robbed from a 96 Jeep Cherokee. 15 minutes of measuring suggested it would fit between the A-body frame rails, filler neck close enough to work, etc..
The 6 cylinder version of this Jeep fuel delivery uses only 1 fuel line, pressure regulator at the pump/sender assembly. That single fuel line, along with a quiet electric pump, is the selling point for me.
Until its proven to work its just an idea though.
Click to expand...

I've had the same idea. Plus the tank is plastic. But, I'm at the same stage you are, just thinking.
 
RedFish said:
I have an idea for my car but it may never happen.
The spare wheel and tire don't fit down in the well anyway so I thought to just delete the spare well and flatten the trunk floor or even raise it a couple inches if necessary.
The space saver spare from the right model Lincoln Town Car would be anchored in there, fuzzy grey cover and all.
The fuel tank in this plan is robbed from a 96 Jeep Cherokee. 15 minutes of measuring suggested it would fit between the A-body frame rails, filler neck close enough to work, etc..
The 6 cylinder version of this Jeep fuel delivery uses only 1 fuel line, pressure regulator at the pump/sender assembly. That single fuel line, along with a quiet electric pump, is the selling point for me.
Until its proven to work its just an idea though.
Click to expand...

While i don't think that's a bad idea, my efi system needs a return line so its sort of a no-go.

I got under my car and found that the problem isnt the lock ring. It appears that the sender flange warped or cracked and fuel is pouring out of it there. I was having fuel percolation issues so i wonder if it caused some sort of warpage over time or if the tank has just reached the end of its life over 40yrs

After doing some research, calling around, and getting hit with sticker shock(hotrod garage quoted me 850 for their tank, that rockvalley place said 1200...and the guy on the phone seemed a little confused. Maybe my fault, but ouch nonetheless)

So i'm thinking of ordering just a new tank from spectra and debating if i should buy the parts to put the pump in the tank.
 
I've seen new tanks on eBay for $119 shipped. That video link I posted does show a decent way to modify the tank. I followed their lead and had great results. I had to purchase a nutsert tool (only about $15 from Harbor Freight) and we were extra cautious about making sure we had a good seal. - That's why we chose to make a cork gasket in conjunction with the Permatex sealant. Our pump runs cool and quiet and the tank setup looks stock.
 
1967 'cuda said:
I've seen new tanks on eBay for $119 shipped. That video link I posted does show a decent way to modify the tank. I followed their lead and had great results. I had to purchase a nutsert tool (only about $15 from Harbor Freight) and we were extra cautious about making sure we had a good seal. - That's why we chose to make a cork gasket in conjunction with the Permatex sealant. Our pump runs cool and quiet and the tank setup looks stock.
Click to expand...

how did you make the access plate? it looks like the a-body tank has the same kinda contours as the b-body tank in that video?

my main motivation is that i wont have two lines connected to the fuel sender to possibly tweak the sender/housing when the body flexes.

what brands are the tanks though? rockauto has the spectra tanks(which from what i've found are made in canada and have a good reputation) for $165 plus shipping. I don't wanna cheap out and then be fighting this leak all over again.
 
roccodart440 said:
I have the hot rod city tank. Very nice stuff
Click to expand...

honestly, i think the price/value for that tank is very nice. I'm just not ready to drop the change for it. However, if i have more issues after the new tank, you can bet i'll be giving them a call and biting the bullet.
 
The fuel delivery system for the V8 Jeep does have the return line and runs higher pressure.
 
magnumdust said:
how did you make the access plate? it looks like the a-body tank has the same kinda contours as the b-body tank in that video?

my main motivation is that i wont have two lines connected to the fuel sender to possibly tweak the sender/housing when the body flexes.

what brands are the tanks though? rockauto has the spectra tanks(which from what i've found are made in canada and have a good reputation) for $165 plus shipping. I don't wanna cheap out and then be fighting this leak all over again.
Click to expand...
I bought a new A body tank off eBay from http://myworld.ebay.com/tomsclassic According to the sticker on it, it was also made in Canada. I scoped out the fuel pump/sending unit and planned on where I thought it best to make my access hole. Then I used the old gas tank from our '68 Charger as a donor for the metal we used to make our door. Luckily we hadn't disposed of it after we'd bought a new tank for it.
 
Our tank is vented on our fuel injected car and I believe you may have to make sure yours will get/be vented too.
 
1967 'cuda said:
I bought a new A body tank off eBay from http://myworld.ebay.com/tomsclassic According to the sticker on it, it was also made in Canada. I scoped out the fuel pump/sending unit and planned on where I thought it best to make my access hole. Then I used the old gas tank from our '68 Charger as a donor for the metal we used to make our door. Luckily we hadn't disposed of it after we'd bought a new tank for it.
Click to expand...

It may be nit picking, but i wasn't thrilled with the way the fuel sending unit flange was attached:

ebay:
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1976-Mopar-A-Body-gas-fuel-tank-CR11E-new-steel-tank-/230830989977?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35be996299"]1971 1976 Mopar A Body Gas Fuel Tank CR11E New Steel Tank | eBay[/ame]

vs.

spectra:
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-CR11E-71-72-73-76-Dart-Scamp-Duster-Demon-Spectra-Premium-/231085150297?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3APlymouth%7CModel%3ADuster&hash=item35cdbf9059&vxp=mtr"]Mopar Fuel Gas Tank CR11E 71 72 73 76 Dart Scamp Duster Demon Spectra Premium | eBay[/ame]

If you use the viewer to zoom on the picture, you can see a difference. I paid 175 from rockauto for the spectra(using a 5% discount code) and hopefully it will be a good tank.

The other thing i may consider is doing a sump kit and retain the external pump.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-4040/overview/
 
I guess each has it's own advantages. An internal pump will normally run quieter and cooler but is a more difficult install. - And if you need to replace a pump someday, it's a lot more work. The hidden internal pump will be less obvious and as such, give the car more of a 'factory' appearance. I don't mind having mods that are apparent. - But sometimes I get a bigger kick out of the modifications that are more subtle. That all having been said, the bottom line is making choices based on the best performance without breaking the bank. We installed the FAST EZ EFI 2.0 system on our '70 Roadrunner and altogether spent around $3200 on parts. The reason we chose that system is that they advertize it to support up to 1200 HP. I doubt we're pulling 450 out of the 383 we're running now but I guess we're prepared for future upgrades now.
 
1967 'cuda said:
I guess each has it's own advantages. An internal pump will normally run quieter and cooler but is a more difficult install. - And if you need to replace a pump someday, it's a lot more work. The hidden internal pump will be less obvious and as such, give the car more of a 'factory' appearance. I don't mind having mods that are apparent. - But sometimes I get a bigger kick out of the modifications that are more subtle. That all having been said, the bottom line is making choices based on the best performance without breaking the bank. We installed the FAST EZ EFI 2.0 system on our '70 Roadrunner and altogether spent around $3200 on parts. The reason we chose that system is that they advertize it to support up to 1200 HP. I doubt we're pulling 450 out of the 383 we're running now but I guess we're prepared for future upgrades now.
Click to expand...

I'm not completely ruling out the in tank install. I just ordered the tank and maybe sunday(likely thursday) when i can pull the old tank and figure what will work and how. My only concern is that on the a-body tank, the bulkheads wouldn't be able to be at the top of the tank. Which makes me worry about potential leaks. And i haven't found a weldable bulkhead that would fit my needs.

The ez efi 2.0 looks nice, my only beef with FAST is that they keep the ez efi limited and don't offer the support i need unless i step up to the expensive Xfi. I'm running the powerjection system that will supposedly support 1000hp and can handle forced induction(a biggie for me)
 
magnumdust said:
honestly, i think the price/value for that tank is very nice. I'm just not ready to drop the change for it. However, if i have more issues after the new tank, you can bet i'll be giving them a call and biting the bullet.
Click to expand...

The price for a reworked factory tank and one of the HRC tanks in the end is pretty dman close.
 
magnumdust said:
I'm not completely ruling out the in tank install. I just ordered the tank and maybe sunday(likely thursday) when i can pull the old tank and figure what will work and how. My only concern is that on the a-body tank, the bulkheads wouldn't be able to be at the top of the tank. Which makes me worry about potential leaks. And i haven't found a weldable bulkhead that would fit my needs.

The ez efi 2.0 looks nice, my only beef with FAST is that they keep the ez efi limited and don't offer the support i need unless i step up to the expensive Xfi. I'm running the powerjection system that will supposedly support 1000hp and can handle forced induction(a biggie for me)
Click to expand...

Have you run the powerjection system yet? My son originally chose the FAST system hoping that if it worked out, he'd put a similar setup on his '68 Charger motor (512 stroker with a 6-71). It wasn't until after he'd purchased it that he saw it wasn't meant for anything but naturally aspirated engines. So, I imagine we'll be in the market for a different system on that project.
 
1967 'cuda said:
Have you run the powerjection system yet? My son originally chose the FAST system hoping that if it worked out, he'd put a similar setup on his '68 Charger motor (512 stroker with a 6-71). It wasn't until after he'd purchased it that he saw it wasn't meant for anything but naturally aspirated engines. So, I imagine we'll be in the market for a different system on that project.
Click to expand...

I'm still working out a little hiccup on the powerjection. I drove it a few weeks back and the car ran better than it ever had. Even with my worn out 904, it would murder the tires if i tried to leave a stop light at more than a quarter throttle.

However, it had an odd warm start issue where it would rev to 2k and stay there. Using their forum someone suggested a fix which worked, but a part throttle bog appeared out of it. The fuel leak happened 5 minutes later and i'll be playing with the tune after there's no more fears of a flammable liquid leaking out of the car.
 
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