Which leaf springs to use?

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My understanding is they are not a Drag race specific
spring.

The SS and Calverts have a totally stiff rigid front segment, basically
that work like a traction bar to transfer the torque to the housing and thus
the tires.

I can give a more detailed analysis when I am not 1/2 asleep.
 
GTX JOHN said:
My understanding is they are not a Drag race specific
spring.

The SS and Calverts have a totally stiff rigid front segment, basically
that work like a traction bar to transfer the torque to the housing and thus
the tires.

I can give a more detailed analysis when I am not 1/2 asleep.
Click to expand...
I believe your assessment is correct. The Hotchkis springs are geared more toward handling, I believe. @72bluNblu may can add something here.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Are you talking about new or used springs? If you bought a set of used springs from a race car and they are bent you can hardly blame the springs. If you bought new springs that were bent you should have exchanged them.
Click to expand...
your missing the point ,I used to run 002-003 springs on a hemi belvedere , it hit them hard , did not bend one ever , but wore them out after a few yrs , the mexican springs wont take that now , unless they`ve changed . Your street car will not hit them like a full blown high h.p. drag car will ...
The bent springs I`m refering to came off of a well known drag racers 68 , 383 barracuda , ''stocker'' , of a few yrs back ....
couldnt tell they were bent if laying in the floor , on the car it showed up immediately.
The guy I bought them off of knew they were bent , but he is/was pretty well known for stuff like that ...I should have known better !!
 
GTX JOHN said:
My understanding is they are not a Drag race specific
spring.

The SS and Calverts have a totally stiff rigid front segment, basically
that work like a traction bar to transfer the torque to the housing and thus
the tires.

I can give a more detailed analysis when I am not 1/2 asleep.
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
I believe your assessment is correct. The Hotchkis springs are geared more toward handling, I believe. @72bluNblu may can add something here.
Click to expand...

Correct, the Hotchkis springs are a handling specific spring, not a drag spring. Their literature says they have a stiffer front segment than factory springs, but I haven’t run a set to really evaluate them.

Their “geometry correcting” front hangers lower the car about 1”, and it should be noted that changes the angle between the front and rear eyes of the spring which can change the launch characteristics.
 
All you saying the SS springs "sit too high" should know something. They were designed like that. Super Stock. There's your clue. Super Stock DRAG RACING class. Those springs make these cars sit RIGHT where they're designed to sit just like they are supposed to sit. If you're not drag racing, or wanting to plant your tires REALLY HARD on the street, guess what? Buy something different.
 
I used the 002/003 springs on my 67 dart. I loved the raked look. I found the ride more comfortable than some newer vehicles. I ended up bending them at the rear eye so I had to replace.

I recently put on the caltrac setup with their +1 spring and I found the rear sat too low for my liking. I ended up altering things to get the rear end up at least another inch.

I do not have many miles on the caltrac setup yet so I can't make a case either way, but I know it seemed to hook hard on ny one test.

I do 90% street and 10% street launch (backroads)

I should also add I have inboard springs, mini tub and 325/50/15 tires.
 
You can use a B body or E body rear shackle to change
you ride height. I do not remember which one of those = I have used
several times including my E/SA Red Demon who a lot of you
may have seen pictures.
 
GTX JOHN said:
There is nothing wrong with the SS springs.
I would probably use the 3400 lb application.

They are WAY heavier than Calvert springs and Calvert
will work with you on the ride height (Adjustable by changing
the rear segments).
Click to expand...
John,

Do you know if the rear segments can be made shorter? Long story short, I burned in a set of sliders a touch (.75") too far forward and would rather not cut them off and reweld.... lol
 
Not easy to modify the rear segment as the
metal is hard as Hell.
But you could easily modify the rear spring hanger
to move them up .75.
Male sure shackles are leaning BACK and not forward
when you are done
Plus be prepared to reroll you front fender if the tires are large
diameter.
I routinely move up the rear end .75 forward.
Sometimes the K member as well.
 
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GTX JOHN said:
No easy to modify the rear segment as the
metal is hard as Hell.
But you could easily modify the rear spring hanger
to move them up .75.
Male sure shackles are leaning BACK and not forward
when you are done
Plus be prepared to reroll you front fender if the tires are ;arge
diameter.
I routinely move up the rear end .75 forward.
Sometimes the K member as well.
Click to expand...
Think you missed a key part of my question…. I burned in (welded) sliders too far forward by .75”. If there isn’t an easy fix like a custom set of rear section splits, then I will have to cut off the sliders and re-weld further back.
 
-Boosted- said:
Think you missed a key part of my question…. I burned in (welded) sliders too far forward by .75”. If there isn’t an easy fix like a custom set of rear section splits, then I will have to cut off the sliders and re-weld further back.
Click to expand...

I’d just re-do the sliders. Changing the spring segment lengths will also change the launch characteristics, the shorter front section on the Mopar springs is one of the reasons they don’t axle wrap as bad as the other brands with symmetrical spring segment lengths. And if you shorten the rear section (which would take custom springs anyway) you’re reducing the advantage built into the factory design.
 
Last edited:
-Boosted- said:
Think you missed a key part of my question…. I burned in (welded) sliders too far forward by .75”. If there isn’t an easy fix like a custom set of rear section splits, then I will have to cut off the sliders and re-weld further back.
Click to expand...
I think that's the most correct way.
 
The early b- body 63-64 SS springs will work same length...just 3400lb instead of 3200..got some in a demon ..sit high but level ...I'm gonna try running the rear sliders...
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
I used the 002/003 springs on my 67 dart. I loved the raked look. I found the ride more comfortable than some newer vehicles. I ended up bending them at the rear eye so I had to replace.

I recently put on the caltrac setup with their +1 spring and I found the rear sat too low for my liking. I ended up altering things to get the rear end up at least another inch.

I do not have many miles on the caltrac setup yet so I can't make a case either way, but I know it seemed to hook hard on ny one test.

I do 90% street and 10% street launch (backroads)

I should also add I have inboard springs, mini tub and 325/50/15 tires.
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^like Rusty said ,, "mexican metalurgy"
 
In case it is of interest, here are Hotchkis, additional 1.5 inch lowering blocks installed, so a total of 2.5 inches lower

20230529_150101.jpg
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Mopar has been using Mexican metallurgy since the 50’s. Ram trucks and the gen 3 Hemi are produced there currently.
Click to expand...
Not the piss poor metallurgy several runs of the SS springs got. I've seen some less than a year old that were bent backwards at the front spring eye bolts. They flat out suck. I'll go for something from ESPO or General Spring now.
 
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