which torque converter is better?

Which better suits my needs?

  • Hughes 24TOW

    Votes: 5 71.4%

  • B&M Tork Master

    Votes: 2 28.6%
  • Total voters
    7
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PanGasket

PanGasket

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Just trying to decide which torque converter to get when I rebuild my transmission in my truck. The trucks overall goal is something that can haul parts when needed such as engines and transmissions and rear ends. It has a stock non-roller 318 with an Air Gap and headers. (see signature). It may get a rollercam engine with mag heads and a slightly bigger cam and all the goodies off this engine. Occasionally, it will be used to maybe haul a project home or move a boat.

Here's the two I have in mind:

Hughes 24TOW
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-24TOW/Application/?prefilter=1

and the B&M 10416 Tork Master
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-10416/Application/?prefilter=1
 
i think the 2,000 would be perfect for what you are doing. the 1,800 is basically a factory replacement.
 
I don't know about good but I have this one:
Item# MRE72711 $209.95 private label from Mancini
Unfortunatly it is out of stock, has 2200-2500 stall been in my stroker for 2 years no problems so far stalls approx 2300 for me.
 
412 Stroker said:
I don't know about good but I have this one:
Item# MRE72711 $209.95 private label from Mancini
Unfortunatly it is out of stock, has 2200-2500 stall been in my stroker for 2 years no problems so far stalls approx 2300 for me.
Click to expand...
Isn't that too high for a stock cam?
 
Picked the Hughes.Heard from a few folk,better built than the B&M.
 
http://dynamicconverters.com/

Dynamic is what I have and would recommend. If a off the self converter is all anyone has ever owned then they will never understand the difference from a properly built converter. B&M converter are built off a baseline of 230FTtq at the stall you choose. Which means the stall will move up or down based upon if you have more or less TQ at the desired stall. This can kill performance

Let me explain I first had a B&M 2400 stall and it was big maybe a 12". I thought it was good at the time but I wanted something to get off the line faster. With the 2400 stall B&M the car would push itself at ideal but any pressure on the pedal and it would climb to 2400 or more before the car really went anywhere even at cruise.

Now I have a Dynamic 3800 stall 9" and it is more street friendly than the B&M. It grabs off the line at cruise and cruises at a lower operating rpm than the B&M did. It only when you mash the gas it flashs to the 3800 stall and takes off like a rocket.

My Dynamic converter cost me about $500. Now you may think thats a lot coming from a B&M pricing. But if 2 guys had the same car but had the 2 different converters the guy with the properly matched converter based off his combo would win everytime and he would enjoy driving his car more as well. That old saying stands true for converters " you get what you pay for "

I understand this is for a truck and some towing. They can fit you with what ever you need based on your intent. Even if they recommend a similar stall it will out preform the off the self converter. Give them a call that cost you nothing.
 
If a off the self converter is all anyone has ever owned then they will never understand the difference from a properly built converter.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%. It's really hard to explain it to someone. Most of the time guys spend thousands on the motor,trans,body,suspension.....,etc and cheap out on a converter for some reason. A converter can make or break a combination.

I still see guys sticking to that old head mentality of nothing more then 3000 stall for the street. Those days are long gone. Converter technogly has come a long way. You get the best of both worlds these days. High stall and stock style drive ability.

My advice would be to call dynamic, ptc and ultimate. Talk with them, be 100% honest about your combo and intended use (most important thing). And see which company you feel best with and spend the extra money on a converter built just for your combo and use.
 
My Dynamic converter cost me about $500. Now you may think thats a lot coming from a B&M pricing. But if 2 guys had the same car but had the 2 different converts the guy with the properly matched converter based off his combo would win everytime and he would enjoy driving his car more as well. That old saying stands true for converters " you get what you pay for "
Click to expand...

Here is an example of that.

Me and a friend were cruising side by side. My car had 3.91 gear and a 9 1/2 dynamic converter and his car had 3.23 gear and the junk mopar 175k converter. We were turning the same rpm at the same speed. Boy did that piss him off. Lol. Needless to say a couple months later he had a 9 1/2 dynamic converter in his car. Dropped his cruise rpm by 400 rpm and improved launching at the track big time
 
I'm definitely gonna have to call them up and talk to them about getting a converter. Sounds like a good converter and something to definitely look into. I have never really dealt with a torque converter in other than a stock one. I'm really just wanting to get the best converter so when I yank down my transmission and replace it with a built one, I have a good converter as qwll
 
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