Hey guys looking to put Vintage Air AC in my 65 Barracuda. I'm wondering which kit you guys have successfully used, and if you could tell me the part numbers you bought. I emailed them and they of course don't make a specific kit for this year and they had no idea what kit to recommend. Thanks guys!
Which Vintage Air kit for 65 Barracuda?
- Thread starter Novacuda
- Start date
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http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/search.php?searchid=11291882
Looks like only a few have done it. I used search to find the threads. Tmm
Looks like only a few have done it. I used search to find the threads. Tmm
GaryS
Well-Known Member
Factory air was not a built-in option on Early A-bodies. The only thing available was the "knee-knocker" type that hung under the dash, and several similar-looking units can be had from various aftermarket A/C suppliers. I wanted something that looked more built-in, so I did it my way. The link is to the article I wrote about the Vintage Air install I did in my Valiant several years ago.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/vintage-air/Vintage_Air.htm
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/vintage-air/Vintage_Air.htm
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The PO of my son's '65 Cuda put in AC. It was not a one part kit, and uses a Sanden style compressor, in the 'peanut' style where the connections are on the top/side of the compressor, rather than on the back cover of the compressor. This connection location moves the compressor back as far as it can towards the head, which is a must with the longer-than-stock Edelbrock heads and the small early-A engine compartment, and would be good even with the stock heads. A couple of pix are below, showing the compressor installed, the brackets (in the 2nd pix, which I believe are aftermarket), and the belt setup, which we are going to change.
This position of the compressor means you need a 4 belt crank pulley. The 2 front ones are used for the compressor. We are going to change the belts so that the front 2 crank pulleys slots drive only the compressor and no longer drive the water pump. The present setup allows the water pump to slip at higher RPM's because the pump ends up on the slack side of the crank pulley with the present setup. The pump and alternator will be driven in a standard belt setup.
The forward position of the compressor in this installation uses the 1970-and-later, deeper water pump, which changes the rad lower hose outlet to the passenger side, and pushes the fan more forward to clear the compressor clutch (so the fan has a spacer behind it; see 3rd pix). This puts our pump flange and fan so far forward as to remove any chance of a fan clutch with the 3" deep rad. You might be able to use the shorter pre-1970 water pump with very solid spacer between the pump flange and a custom pulley to get the belts our forward to the compressor clutch.
The interior unit is an aftermarket under-dash type. I can find the info if you like.
This position of the compressor means you need a 4 belt crank pulley. The 2 front ones are used for the compressor. We are going to change the belts so that the front 2 crank pulleys slots drive only the compressor and no longer drive the water pump. The present setup allows the water pump to slip at higher RPM's because the pump ends up on the slack side of the crank pulley with the present setup. The pump and alternator will be driven in a standard belt setup.
The forward position of the compressor in this installation uses the 1970-and-later, deeper water pump, which changes the rad lower hose outlet to the passenger side, and pushes the fan more forward to clear the compressor clutch (so the fan has a spacer behind it; see 3rd pix). This puts our pump flange and fan so far forward as to remove any chance of a fan clutch with the 3" deep rad. You might be able to use the shorter pre-1970 water pump with very solid spacer between the pump flange and a custom pulley to get the belts our forward to the compressor clutch.
The interior unit is an aftermarket under-dash type. I can find the info if you like.
rayer: -
