Who's running NGK ZFR5N in there Slant?

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I'll be watchin this as I am experiencing some spark knock in my high compression slant and colder plugs is one of the methods I plan to use to tune it out.
 
volaredon said:
Nope. Champions have always done me just fine.
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Yup. They are a good plug. I got Autolites this time cause they were on sale AND I got a rebate.LMAO
 
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Well, I liked my NGK ZFR5N plugs, no complaints after 5 years running, inspected good and lasted, but we all have different conditions and set up's on our timing and plug wires.
I was told they are the plug for my 170 by one of our slant tech members, so I went with his direction he told me.

Tim Morlin Visit 7 22 2010 017.jpg
 
I like autolites in my NA slants. I run NGK's when on the bottle.
The actual plug number varies depending on which engine (modificaations), and/or amount of spray.
PS: I haven't bought a Champion plug in 40 years. I have a long memory when a company tries to give me a screwing.
 
Hey Charlie.... Champion..... screwing? Huh? That's how plugs go in , they screw round and round.
No matter the brand.

One combo that I have NEVER had luck with is ACs in a mopar. Tried it a few times when they were out of the right champions for what I was driving, every time I wound up with an overpowering whine in the speakers whenever the radio was on.
 
They are extended tip plugs. They won't hit the piston right? 74 -225
 
The NGK plugs in my Barracuda have been in for 12000 miles since 2016. I checked them last year and they had a nice tan color and the electrodes looked fine. I'm running a Chrysler electronic distributor with an MSD box.
 
TF360 said:
They are extended tip plugs. They won't hit the piston right? 74 -225
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It takes some effort to get anything to contact a piston in a stock 225. Even large cams & o/s valves, the piston is soooo far down in the hole,....the tip on the spark plug'd have to be 13/16" longer to get close, lol! By that time You'd realize the intake valve has collided with the plug 1st...., even with a -0- deck piston the ground electrode on a stock plug is about 5/8" from the deck surface of an unmilled head(on the plug's centerline), so no worries there!!:thumbsup:
 
volaredon said:
Hey Charlie.... Champion..... screwing? Huh? That's how plugs go in , they screw round and round.
No matter the brand.

One combo that I have NEVER had luck with is ACs in a mopar. Tried it a few times when they were out of the right champions for what I was driving, every time I wound up with an overpowering whine in the speakers whenever the radio was on.
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I used Autolites in My "Killer6", stock EI box, recurved dizzy w/the mech adv limited, Accel coil. I can tell You 1st-hand, Champion had a less-than-stellar rep in the late '80's-early '90's, They allowed a ton of sub-standard "2nds" product to be sold at discount stores. For a fact. More than a few put a fresh set of Chumpions in & the car would barely run/idle. One in particular was pulling His hair out, as He'd fixed a cable terminal, & the Mallory cap's spring-loaded button had stuck "up in" twice before on Him. Nope. I told Him to toss the old plugs back in, & voila! Some of Us have long memories, & trust is difficult to win back.
 
I will add that in those days, in the shop, we saw an unusually high amount of plug fouling with Champs. We were sourcing from pro-suppliers, so, they weren't discount specials. I have no evidence to support this, but the parts supplier reps were telling Us there was a change in production & the heat ranges were too cold/inconsistant, take that for what it is...anecdotal heresay....but that was the "buzz" at the time.
 
My story with Champion was, I installed new plugs, and the engine developed a misfire within a short time. After trouble shooting, swapped out the Champs for a set of used Autolites, and the miss went away. Swapped the Champs bck in, and the miss returned. I sent the plugs to champion,and got a response "there is nothing wrong with the plugs". They did not send a set of replacements, or even return the plugs I sent them.
By the same token, I had a issue with a set of Autolites. One plug in a set of 8 was 5 heat ranges higher then what was on the box. Informed Autolite, and they wee very apologetic. Offer to pay for any damage to my engine (there was none), and sent me a case of plugs, for my inconvience.
 
Champion has had a couple different owners over the years. No more Toledo production U believe they are now made in Mexico or China.
 
Haven't seen china yet,lots of mexico on the label from champion.
 
Cooper industries was one, and l believe They were the ones that started the 3-digit numbering system, while still having the original plug# so THAT was efficient! Lol!
 
Put the NGK's ZFR5N's in today. Love the extended tip, and motor runs great. I did not like that the base of the plug was smaller in diameter. I tightened them and they got kind of tight and then went in a couple more turns to finally tighten properly. I wonder if they pushed through the end of the tube a little because they are more narrow? Engine idles a little better
 
I literally just installed NGK ZFR5N (#3459) a few days ago. As mentioned, they are extended tip and get the spark closer to the center of the chamber, which is desirable. I also have the HEI conversion, so I gapped them a bit higher in the 0.036-38" range (and you can certainly go higher). Runs great! Note that they are 5/8" plugs instead of the stock 13/16". Also, for the pre-'75 heads they are not tapered and you want to remove the crush ring as well. The plug tubes act as the spacer between the plug and head.

FYI - these plugs are the latest Dan Stern recommendation (he's tried a lot of them).
 
I just changed from RN14YC to RN9YC in my new 225 to help tune a spark knock issue. It made a big improvement. I have a high flow thermostat on theway as well. I feel confident that will take care of the rest. I guess I am lucky. I've never really had any strange issues with any brand plug.
 
TF360 said:
Put the NGK's ZFR5N's in today. Love the extended tip, and motor runs great. I did not like that the base of the plug was smaller in diameter. I tightened them and they got kind of tight and then went in a couple more turns to finally tighten properly. I wonder if they pushed through the end of the tube a little because they are more narrow? Engine idles a little better
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2 extra turns would've cut clean through the tube, they ain't that thick, & 2 turns of a 1.25mm thread is almost .100". Most likely the the thread/barrel of the NGK engaged the threads all the way to the chamber surface, cleaning the carbon off on their way through.
 
Killer6 said:
2 extra turns would've cut clean through the tube, they ain't that thick, & 2 turns of a 1.25mm thread is almost .100". Most likely the the thread/barrel of the NGK engaged the threads all the way to the chamber surface, cleaning the carbon off on their way through.
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Sounds petty. I replaced my spark plug tube gaskets which negated the gap problem. I threw the napa box in the recycler. I can retrive it. The gaskets can easily be made from flat cork as well.
 
Yeah according to SSDan you have to remove the seal rings on the drool tube heads except for the 1st 2-3 years that the /6 existed, I don't know what the difference in the head or drool tube itself might have been those 1st few years vs newer ones than that might have been.
 
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