Who's the cooling system expert in here, I need educated.

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Donny

Donny

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I have a virgin cooling system and want to do it right the first time, need some good basic guidance. Have been reading about Evans waterless coolant and it is intriguing.
 
Evan's coolant is awesome and perfect for a fresh unused system. Go with that if you can.

If you don't want to for whatever reason get Zerex G-05, it's superior to the green stuff and compatible in any system.

Adding one of these is cheap insurance but not required if you run Evans or change your conventional antifreeze when you're supposed to:
Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 32060 Zinc Anode Drain Plug Kit: Automotive

As a side note, I always drill a very small hole in the flange of the thermostat to make bleeding the air out of the system very easy.
 
You need to go to Hemming's motor news and search waterless coolant, All my friends that used it in there offroad race bikes complain about leaks and all have switched back to anti freeze and water.
I was going to use it in a 29 ford but after reading all the reviews changed my mind.


I have ran saab or volvo coolant with no problems what so ever.

Do your research!
 
kiss said:
Evan's coolant is awesome and perfect for a fresh unused system. Go with that if you can.

If you don't want to for whatever reason get Zerex G-05, it's superior to the green stuff and compatible in any system.

Adding one of these is cheap insurance but not required if you run Evans or change your conventional antifreeze when you're supposed to:
Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 32060 Zinc Anode Drain Plug Kit: Automotive

As a side note, I always drill a very small hole in the flange of the thermostat to make bleeding the air out of the system very easy.
Click to expand...
Thanks for both replies, what's the significance of that drain plug?
 
Donny said:
Thanks for both replies, what's the significance of that drain plug?
Click to expand...
It's not a drain plug, it's an anode rod that can go in place of the drain petcock or other fitting depending on what radiator you have. An anode is something that protects your cooling system from electrolysis damage.

Again an anode isn't necessary if running Evan's Coolant or if you change your conventional coolant when you're supposed to. It is however cheap insurance.
 
Evan's coolant.
It saved my engine when the thermostat froze close.
 
Used Evans a couple times, you have to get used to to the temp gauge reading high. Since Evans won't boil, it can get away with higher engine temps, your motor may even run better at higher temps. water based systems are pressurized and have the srange they do based entirely on the boiling point of water. It takes a bit of effort to untrain your mind.
 
I used Evans for the first time last year.

I'd never go back to regular antifreeze. The hardest part is getting past the initial cost.
 
I use Evans in my 84 & 85 M-B and 2002 T&C w/ no issues. I am converting my 3 old Mopars to it. If you have a car down for a long time, that lets you insure you get all water out of the system. The heater core is hardest to purge (I use tricks). My 85 has a slight coolant leak (heater core?), but w/ Evans I can run w/ the reservoir cap loose so it hardly loses any. That might also let any stray water boil off, though I wouldn't count on that. I also changed most 5/8" hoses to silicone so less concern w/ failures and losing the expensive coolant. If worried about the $45 cost of carrying a spare gallon in the trunk, perhaps carry Sierra Coolant ($12/gal at Ace) which is pure propylene glycol (what Evans originally used, now a mixture w/ ethylene glycol). Some say you can Sierra instead of Evans, but its MSDS spec's up to 5% water content as I recall. Anyway, better than water in a roadside emergency and maybe the extra water will boil off over time if you keep the cap loose. With the cap tight, it will build slight pressure from the air getting hot. When you remove the cap, the pressure quickly drops.

Speaking of that, I had ~2 gal of Evans I had drained and was worried it had some water so set it up on a propane stove in the backyard and kind of forgot. Later I found it boiling aggressively. Appeared to have barely visible flames above the liquid. When I stuck paper there, it caught fire. The vapor must have been burning in air since paper requires >451 F to ignite (according to Ray Bradberry) and Evans boils ~350 F. Anyway, any water should have been long gone.
 
ir3333 said:
a little more info?
hemi,restored 340,hi compression 440,pick up truck,B body?????
Click to expand...
408 stroker, street car that will see the track 2 times a year for a few fun passes. Engine dyno at 485HP.
 
Any tips on ways to flush all water out of the engine and heater core before I drop engine in the car?
 
Engine, unscrew the block plugs (2 in V-8's, 1 in slants). Might need to punch thru rust clogging the drain. But first, run the engine w/ a good flush like citric acid to free all the rust. For heater core, I rig up shop air w/ hoses to get the water out while installed. I block one hose w/ thumb to build ~40 psi pressure, then release. As the air puffs out, it brings a mist of water. Repeat many times and also flush thru ethanol. I then leave an electric puffer connected for days to run air thru (garage sale, for fat people who gag when sleeping). In our hot, dry summers, water doesn't hang around. If the radiator is in the sun, with all ports open, it should be bone dry in a few days.
 
Sorry, crude but descriptive. There is a medical term for those "air puffers", but I forgot. Maybe "pneufulator"?
 
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