Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Yes, the lower coil is the "Super Coil". Two Ballasts. The other, I'm not sure of the app. I would think, not two ballasts.
Why do the ignition boxes fail?
- Thread starter jrc4y4
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Look what I just found on Facebook!
Dave999
Well-Known Member
yeah works well enough and the case is a pretty good heat sink
Rusty there is a huge problem with counterfeit electronics parts. What happens is a company reverse engineers an electronic component then try to make a copy of it while printing the original manufacturers information on the part to sell at the going rate of that part. The catch is typically the production facility that makes these parts are a far cry from a real electronics manufacturer with real quality control and high precision assembly processes. They can leave chemicals used in the manufacturing process in the component (typically removed by a specific process step that is not used to save cost) that over time continues to etch or degrade the part as an example. Other issues are they don't actually meet the specifications of the original parts that they copied because of the substandard processes.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I found a couple of potting compounds gone bad.
It's no wonder they go T.U.
It's no wonder they go T.U.
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
These look like the ones I been finding, some even work. I just don't trust them but will keep one for a backup in my trunk.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
if you can clean that gunk off and the circuit still works just seal up the back with a bit of nylon board and RTV and carry on...
it needs to be sealed to stop water getting in if you mount it in orginal place.
if you get it really clean, spray the board with the same varnish they use for transformers and alternator windings, that will protect against damp...
the beauty of the old ones is very few, easy to Identify components, that were hand soldered originally. i.e you could take the board to an electronics store and get a friendly retail operative to "Go get me one example of all of these" and you'd end up with 90% of everything you need to swap everything for new for about $5. the expensive bit is that big transistor, they won;t have one and you'd need an equivalent. some of those things now cost $100s from obsolete parts sellers especially if it was used in a HIFI amp, hammond organ or a Video game unit... things people like to restore back to, exactly original
get a new one and the board uses components like grains of sand... need X-ray eyes and robot hands to fix
Dave
it needs to be sealed to stop water getting in if you mount it in orginal place.
if you get it really clean, spray the board with the same varnish they use for transformers and alternator windings, that will protect against damp...
the beauty of the old ones is very few, easy to Identify components, that were hand soldered originally. i.e you could take the board to an electronics store and get a friendly retail operative to "Go get me one example of all of these" and you'd end up with 90% of everything you need to swap everything for new for about $5. the expensive bit is that big transistor, they won;t have one and you'd need an equivalent. some of those things now cost $100s from obsolete parts sellers especially if it was used in a HIFI amp, hammond organ or a Video game unit... things people like to restore back to, exactly original
get a new one and the board uses components like grains of sand... need X-ray eyes and robot hands to fix
Dave
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I’m not at the car, but my dad installed a Rev 7500 around June on the car. It died the other day. No warning just out. .5 ohm ballast resistor and I’m not sure what the coil was.
He’s ordered a stock equivalent resistor and coil to replace the rev n mayor coil I had. I’m sure won’t be as hot but at this point it would be nice to have a more reliable set up. Maybe stuff is mismatched.
I think in future I may go FBO or Rev N Nator if they come back. Or do the HEI hidden in the OE box and wire the ballast. 4 boxes in 20 years I guess isn’t horrible but I don’t know.
I'm tempted to make the switch to the GM based HEI module. Replacements are cheap and widely available. No ballast resistor to fail either.
A guy at FBBO has been working on 3D printing these:
Another design of his:
You can keep this "fake" ballast in the system...
It all wires up like this:
A guy at FBBO has been working on 3D printing these:
Another design of his:
You can keep this "fake" ballast in the system...
It all wires up like this:
Right there with you. Will those how he makes them mount under the old box after it’s hollowed out?
Of course you need the Straight 12 volt wired E-Coil
To burn the plugs clean >
NGK 4 V-Power, for small blocks.
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bcschief
Well-Known Member
Those GM module's need a good heatsink to live. Any module does.
10 - 4
Aluminum Heat sink HEI Mopar bracket installed with the proper Thermal Paste.
Can buy the thermal paste at your local Best Buy stores.
Heat Sink Thermal Paste goes between the HEI module and the Mopar HEI aluminum adapter plate.
Sucks the heat out of the HEI module.
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I think his plan was just a stand alone mount as shown. I was a bit curious as to why he includes a fake ballast. The HEI swap looks different enough to not look stock so I’m not sure if the reasoning behind maintaining the stock appearance of the ballast resistor. I’m not criticizing the setup, just trying to understand. It looks like the bolt spacing of the HEI mount is the same as a Mopar ECU.
Ah ok. I was thinking it would potentially fit under a hallowed box. Agreed if it’s not a stealth way of doing the HEI, no sense in doing the go behind on the ballast. But if trying to hide it I like that way of doing the ballast.
Another good option. I think for me I want to run an original canister type coil and make it a little more factory looking. But I think the modules under the distributors like that are pretty popular to do.
The Pentronic Flame Thrower III coils @ 45,000 volts work with the HEI Ignitions. (although the e-core coils out perform them)
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What makes the e coils better? Genuine question, I’ve never looked into it.
Mount the hei on the firewall Inside the car.
Use unused cavities on the bulkhead connector to pass the wires back and forth.
As to why they fail...
Several reasons come to mind
Use unused cavities on the bulkhead connector to pass the wires back and forth.
As to why they fail...
Several reasons come to mind
- Too much draw by the coil for the electrical components inside the box
- Low quality components inside the box
- Poor quality power feeding the box, too much electrical noise / spikes etc
- Heat
- Vibration
More voltage output and run cooler to the touch.
Have tested them, each coil on the same vehicle. Spark Plugs and tailpipe burned cleaner with the e-core coil.
Pentronix III on left, E-core coil on right.
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What makes a coil better is one that has adequate voltage [ 30kv for NA engines with no power adders ] to fire the plug. If you get a 60kv coil & your plugs only need 25k to fire the plug, you will get less energy [ heat ] in the spark than if the coil output was 30kv, all else being equal. Unfortunately, 60 kv in the advertising sounds much more impressive than 0.14 amp spark current.....& the suckers fall for it. I noticed with Crane coils that they generally had lower turns ratio than other brands. They got it....'it' being that it is current that ignites the mixture & you do not want to trade current for voltage.
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