Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Yes, the lower coil is the "Super Coil". Two Ballasts. The other, I'm not sure of the app. I would think, not two ballasts.
Why do the ignition boxes fail?
- Thread starter jrc4y4
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Look what I just found on Facebook!
Dave999
Well-Known Member
yeah works well enough and the case is a pretty good heat sink
Rusty there is a huge problem with counterfeit electronics parts. What happens is a company reverse engineers an electronic component then try to make a copy of it while printing the original manufacturers information on the part to sell at the going rate of that part. The catch is typically the production facility that makes these parts are a far cry from a real electronics manufacturer with real quality control and high precision assembly processes. They can leave chemicals used in the manufacturing process in the component (typically removed by a specific process step that is not used to save cost) that over time continues to etch or degrade the part as an example. Other issues are they don't actually meet the specifications of the original parts that they copied because of the substandard processes.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I found a couple of potting compounds gone bad.
It's no wonder they go T.U.
It's no wonder they go T.U.
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
These look like the ones I been finding, some even work. I just don't trust them but will keep one for a backup in my trunk.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
if you can clean that gunk off and the circuit still works just seal up the back with a bit of nylon board and RTV and carry on...
it needs to be sealed to stop water getting in if you mount it in orginal place.
if you get it really clean, spray the board with the same varnish they use for transformers and alternator windings, that will protect against damp...
the beauty of the old ones is very few, easy to Identify components, that were hand soldered originally. i.e you could take the board to an electronics store and get a friendly retail operative to "Go get me one example of all of these" and you'd end up with 90% of everything you need to swap everything for new for about $5. the expensive bit is that big transistor, they won;t have one and you'd need an equivalent. some of those things now cost $100s from obsolete parts sellers especially if it was used in a HIFI amp, hammond organ or a Video game unit... things people like to restore back to, exactly original
get a new one and the board uses components like grains of sand... need X-ray eyes and robot hands to fix
Dave
it needs to be sealed to stop water getting in if you mount it in orginal place.
if you get it really clean, spray the board with the same varnish they use for transformers and alternator windings, that will protect against damp...
the beauty of the old ones is very few, easy to Identify components, that were hand soldered originally. i.e you could take the board to an electronics store and get a friendly retail operative to "Go get me one example of all of these" and you'd end up with 90% of everything you need to swap everything for new for about $5. the expensive bit is that big transistor, they won;t have one and you'd need an equivalent. some of those things now cost $100s from obsolete parts sellers especially if it was used in a HIFI amp, hammond organ or a Video game unit... things people like to restore back to, exactly original
get a new one and the board uses components like grains of sand... need X-ray eyes and robot hands to fix
Dave
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