Will Hot Tank Remove JB Weld

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72DMag

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My buddy's la 360 needs some help. Looks like the previous owner attempted to screen the block himself and it's a mess!!!!! Guy globbed jb weld on top of the lifter valley and the screens are cheap and ready to fall apart. Needless to say we r disgusted. So much for the block is ready to race:mad:

Only thing I can think of to fix this is to get the block hot tanked. Will that remove the jb weld?? Honestly dont know. Also he did the red paint inside the block. I'd assume machine shops would still take it to hot tank correct?

Thanks for any advice!!
 
If the JB Weld (slow cure) was mixed right and the surface was real clean...you will have to "mechancally" (grind) remove it. JB Kwik is just about as hard to remove. Once JB is cured, I don't know of any solvent that will touch it. (MEK might "tickle it a little) I don't think the hot tank will do much to remove it. I use all kinds of different epoxies in my trade...when they are mixed right and cured..."that's all she wrote!"
Norm
 
Oh crapp..... That's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll bust out the dremel and little grinding wheel. There goes days of effort.

The jb weld was globbed so bad it dropped to the underside of the lifter valley to right above the cam. This is why some people shouldnt work on cars!!

Thanks guys!
 
Oh crapp..... That's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll bust out the dremel and little grinding wheel. There goes days of effort.

The jb weld was globbed so bad it dropped to the underside of the lifter valley to right above the cam. This is why some people shouldnt work on cars!!

Thanks guys!
Might try heating it with a propane torch. still messy
 
Oh crapp..... That's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll bust out the dremel and little grinding wheel. There goes days of effort.

The jb weld was globbed so bad it dropped to the underside of the lifter valley to right above the cam. This is why some people shouldnt work on cars!!

Thanks guys!
Are you familiar with these abrasive discs ? They are like real hard scotch-brite. They will, depending on the disc coarseness, remove most cured epoxies applied to steel, without damaging the base metal. You will need the Arbor to mount the discs. I use them all the time in a 90 degree die grinder. They come in general grades, fine, medium and course. Ebay and Amazon.
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Second vote for heat. A propane torch kinda heat. It's gonna stink and might kill you but I would give it a try. I don't think a hot tank is gonna do it.
 
Hit it with a propane torch and it should soften it up. Then you can pluck it off with a screwdriver. Once the bulk is gone, hit it with the torch again and wire brush the rest off.
 
Some shops have thermal cleaners that can bake the crud and junk off a block. Runs at 350-600F depending on material and the shop.

Would require touching up all machined surfaces and a very thorough jet wash after though. But it would remove the JB.
 
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