Wilwood disc for 8 3/4 install problems.

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Wicked31

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Looking for a solution to a problem I'm having on the install of wilwood rear discs w/ e-brake. I have an a-body 8 3/4 housing with 5x4.5 dr diff axles w/green bearings. The problem I'm having is caliper to disc distance. After installing everything by the instructions the caliper with no shims is too tight to the disc on the outside. Can't even get a pad in there. Has anyone else had this problem and what's a good fix? The only solution I can think of is using the green bearing retainer between the housing and backing plate but not sure that will work.
 
I just ran into it last week on a customers 67 chevelle. It had brand new strange axels, and he gave me no paperwork, so I assumed the axels were too long. The rotor hat bottomed out on the Axel, and an eight inch of the e-brake shoe was still showing.
 
I went with a hair longer axle than stock length! Wilwoods went on fine.
 
Here's what I'm thinking. It will space
Mine assembled fine. I have green bearings also.

It goes on fine but you cannot center the caliper on the rotor. I'm going to throw the spacer that goes between the caliper mount and backing plate in the mill tomorrow. Needs to be about a 1/32nd to 1/16 thinner. Also had to put the green bearing retainer on the housing to space it out a bit since wilwoods backing plate goes on the opposite side of the snap ring.
 
Are you sure the bearing is pressed completely on to the shaft? I've installed the same draglite (with ebrake) kit . If the axle is to long the bearing wont seat fully in the housing and you'd know it when assembling the retaining plate. The bearing not being fully pressed or spaced wrong could be the culprit.
 
Are you sure the bearing is pressed completely on to the shaft? I've installed the same draglite (with ebrake) kit . If the axle is to long the bearing wont seat fully in the housing and you'd know it when assembling the retaining plate. The bearing not being fully pressed or spaced wrong could be the culprit.
I'm assuming the axles are the right length. I ordered the from dr. diff for stock a body housing. If I slide the axles in without any backing plate they will hit each other before the snap ring hits the housing. This is the only way I can get them to work. Which makes sense since factory drum backing plates go on before the axles go in.

IMG_2790.JPG
 
I believe that spacer is discarded, remove the snap ring, install the backing plate (ebrake shoe assy),reinstall the snap ring. Picture #1 in the instructions. Just read the directions,page4 highlighted "remove the stock bearing retainers from the axles". The axle is held in with the backing plate and new retainer. You should be fine
 
I believe that spacer is discarded, remove the snap ring, install the backing plate (ebrake shoe assy),reinstall the snap ring. Picture #1 in the instructions. Just read the directions,page4 highlighted "remove the stock bearing retainers from the axles". The axle is held in with the backing plate and new retainer. You should be fine
Yes that's how I did it the first time. The retainer they provide doesn't fit over the bearing in order to sandwich the snap ring between the backing plate and the new retainer with the cutout.
 
You lost me. That factory retainer should be hanging on your wall. The open end retainer should be outside (sandwiching the backing plate)against the snap ring against the axle tube.
 
My understanding for it to work the way the instructions say the retainer needs to fit over the bearing and up against the snap ring. Obviously that won't work with the retainer they sent.

IMG_2794.JPG


IMG_2792.JPG
 
You lost me. That factory retainer should be hanging on your wall. The open end retainer should be outside (sandwiching the backing plate)against the snap ring against the axle tube.
The factory retainer in the pic is just spacing the axles out temporarily.
 
so right now ,if you take the spacer out and slide the axle in, the snap ring doesn't bottom out? if the axles hit before the snap ring does, trim the axle ends. with the green bearings ,pre load and axle run out aren't a factor. It's easy with a cut off wheel
 
just saw the second set of pics, the retainer presses against the backing plate which presses against the snap ring, but the snap ring should still be just about flush with the axle tube
 
so right now ,if you take the spacer out and slide the axle in, the snap ring doesn't bottom out? if the axles hit before the snap ring does, trim the axle ends. with the green bearings ,pre load and axle run out aren't a factor. It's easy with a cut off wheel
Yes if I put both axles in without spacing them out they will hit each other. That seems to be the problem. I guess wilwood should mention that. Snap ring should sandwich between housing flange and backing plate? That's why I was using the old retainers to space them out.
 
I had the same issue with my Moser axles, No biggie, trim away till the snap ring sits against the housing
 
Are you using the Wilwood brake kit advertised as 2.36" offset for use with snap-ring Green bearings? That version comes the closest to fitting.

Unfortunately, no Mopar spec Wilwood brakes are designed correctly, as the caliper bracket bolts on the wrong side of the wheel bearing.

I make a 1/8" spacer plate that cures the wheel bearing pre-loading problem.
 
after I bought my housing 2" narrowed I sent it to moser to have axles made to fit with bearings and 3" press in studs. They sold me the rear brake kit as a package. First the rotors don't seat over the press in stud bases(?). I had to open the lug holes on the rotors so they would seat on the axles, Then the axle bearings wouldn't seat (same as you). Cut 1/8" off and done, only to find the bigger rear kit doesn't fit inside 15"x10" BS StreetLites. Their response was that the sale was to old and couldn't be returned. I ended up with the low profile kit. Glad it worked out for you and next time I'll look up Dr.Diff (had I known....)
 
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