Windshield Questions 71 Scamp

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RichardR

RichardR

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Hi everyone,

I'm looking to remove my windshield to remove rust from the channel / fence, and I have done a few searches on how to do it as well as service manuals. The manuals are ok (doesn't mention scamp in the 71 plymouth manual, so i looked at dart) and seem to be in line with the majority of what people say:
- remove glass, then rubber, clean it up
-install rubber gasket, then work in the glass

my questions are:

-Is butyl sealant better then 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound?
-And, since its a 71, do I need a locking strip? some gaskets I see don't have an accompanying locking strip to buy. The 70 Dart service manual says to put a filler strip in the bottom, is that the locking strip?

Thanks guys for any insight :)
 
I just pulled the windshield out of my 70 dart and the locking strip is built into the window gasket. Mine had butyl tape all along the bottom. You should post some picks of the scamp.
 
From my most recent experience ( 3 or 4 yrs ago )... We don't realize how bad a 50 yr. old windshield is until a new one goes in its place. So if you break a OEM glass in removal, that can turn out to be a good thing. I don't regret cracking that glass one bit. If I had only known. I did know that saving the gasket is a heck of a lot easier when the glass is scrapped from the start. I didn't know I was trying to save a pizz poor glass. Good luck
 
RichardR said:
Hi everyone,

I'm looking to remove my windshield to remove rust from the channel / fence, and I have done a few searches on how to do it as well as service manuals. The manuals are ok (doesn't mention scamp in the 71 plymouth manual, so i looked at dart) and seem to be in line with the majority of what people say:
- remove glass, then rubber, clean it up
-install rubber gasket, then work in the glass

my questions are:

-Is butyl sealant better then 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound?
-And, since its a 71, do I need a locking strip? some gaskets I see don't have an accompanying locking strip to buy. The 70 Dart service manual says to put a filler strip in the bottom, is that the locking strip?

Thanks guys for any insight :)
Click to expand...

Read this thread.

Windshield and rear window seal

The sealant you will find that I posted is the best stuff in world. I used it on my cuda and it works great!
I don't know what they are talking about a "filler strip" but your gasket should have a self locking strip. You unzip it BEFORE you remove the glass. If the car is going to be nice now is the time for new gasket as well as windshield... like previously posted. Windshields get "sand blasted" after years of service and looking though the glass gets "foggy". You really won't notice the difference until you look through a new windshield in comparison.
 
mullinax95 said:
Read this thread.

Windshield and rear window seal

The sealant you will find that I posted is the best stuff in world. I used it on my cuda and it works great!
I don't know what they are talking about a "filler strip" but your gasket should have a self locking strip. You unzip it BEFORE you remove the glass. If the car is going to be nice now is the time for new gasket as well as windshield... like previously posted. Windshields get "sand blasted" after years of service and looking though the glass gets "foggy". You really won't notice the difference until you look through a new windshield in comparison.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will look up that stuff. As per the filler strip, in a 70 Dart service manual, the gasket channel that the windshield slides into has a filler strip in the bottom. May be irrelevant with new gaskets.

So it seems that its based on the manufacturer of the gasket if it has a self locking strip or a separate locking strip. Like on one site there are different options (1 or 2) that fit 67 - 75 or something like that but only one has a locking strip.

I attached a pic with and without its crappy vinyl top and one of all the " toys". Definitely not putting a vinyl top back on....hate it

IMG_20161004_1857012.jpg


IMG_20160917_1600517.jpg


IMG_20170728_2052277.jpg
 
mullinax95 said:
Read this thread.

Windshield and rear window seal

The sealant you will find that I posted is the best stuff in world. I used it on my cuda and it works great!
I don't know what they are talking about a "filler strip" but your gasket should have a self locking strip. You unzip it BEFORE you remove the glass. If the car is going to be nice now is the time for new gasket as well as windshield... like previously posted. Windshields get "sand blasted" after years of service and looking though the glass gets "foggy". You really won't notice the difference until you look through a new windshield in comparison.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I did not word it perfectly.
 
RichardR said:
Thanks, I will look up that stuff. As per the filler strip, in a 70 Dart service manual, the gasket channel that the windshield slides into has a filler strip in the bottom. May be irrelevant with new gaskets.

So it seems that its based on the manufacturer of the gasket if it has a self locking strip or a separate locking strip. Like on one site there are different options (1 or 2) that fit 67 - 75 or something like that but only one has a locking strip.

I attached a pic with and without its crappy vinyl top and one of all the " toys". Definitely not putting a vinyl top back on....hate it

View attachment 1715089880

View attachment 1715089881

View attachment 1715089882
Click to expand...
Is that the factory color?
 
Yes sir original colour, Go Green/ Sassy Green (I belive one was plymouth, one dodge) but not original paint. The fender tag decoded as go green.

It was painted over at some point when someone did body (crappy) work. It's a great builder, was licensed on the road when I bought it for $2500.

I managed to get hooked up with paint (base and clear) from one of my works supplier's paint tech/rep
 
RichardR said:
Yes sir original colour, Go Green/ Sassy Green (I belive one was plymouth, one dodge) but not original paint. The fender tag decoded as go green.

It was painted over at some point when someone did body (crappy) work. It's a great builder, was licensed on the road when I bought it for $2500.

I managed to get hooked up with paint (base and clear) from one of my works supplier's paint tech/rep
Click to expand...

I posted some information above... might help. Use the sealant I posted in place of bed and glaze... seals better with less mess.
 
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