Windshield Wipers Inop!

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Mike's Dart

Dodging The Negative Darting Toward The Positive
Joined
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Location
McDermott, Ohio
Salutations to the Restoration Gurus!
The good folks over on the "Welcome Wagon" Forum sent me over this way!
Four days ago I purchased my 1973 Dart! Really nice car for 43 years old! It has a few minor issues that need addressed before I make it my daily driver (can't wait)! My wiper motor is running making a click-click-click sound, as if the arm/linkage is disconnected or maybe broken? Any guidance on how to fix this wiper problem will be much appreciated!

Thanks In Advance!

Mike
 
Salutations to the Restoration Gurus!
The good folks over on the "Welcome Wagon" Forum sent me over this way!
Four days ago I purchased my 1973 Dart! Really nice car for 43 years old! It has a few minor issues that need addressed before I make it my daily driver (can't wait)! My wiper motor is running making a click-click-click sound, as if the arm/linkage is disconnected or maybe broken? Any guidance on how to fix this wiper problem will be much appreciated!

Thanks In Advance!

Mike
Check the bushings on the linkages , they are rubber and can break over time
 
OK to type all this again... The primary linkage routes from wiper motor pitman arm to left/drivers side pivot. Secondary linkage routes from that pivot back across to right/passengers side pivot. 4 nylon bushings snapped into the linkage arms with steel ball studs snapped into their cupped sides.
You'll pull the instrument panel to access one and center radio/climate controller area to access the other. The factory service manual will help to get'er done.
The bushings can be purchased just about anywhere, HELP line at parts stores, dealerships, ebay, etc..
Now the tricky part... A lot of owners have replaced bushings that failed ( after 30+ years of use ), then their new bushings failed after a year or 2. First thing they do is blame aftermarket bushing quality. The truth is these pivot posts are worn adding much more work load at the bushings. This is especially true for that divers side pivot assembly since it transfers work from motor to other pivot.
I'll point out a difference in mfgrs... Try to buy a bushing for a Honda wiper linkage. In fact,,, go to Dorman catalog and look at wiper linkage bushings. There aint 10 different bushings available. Most mfgrs will offer nothing less than a complete wiper assembly. That's the linkage, bushings, pivot posts, all of it. They fix it once and done for another XX years. Their customers may pay more for a wiper fix but they don't ***** about a half assed fix for the same thing over and over.
We can't buy new pivot post assemblies for our A-body but we can service the OEM pivots while we are in there.
I did completely rebuild the wiper pivots in my 67 fish. I wont go into the how and all about what was involved. The basic grease and seal kits can make a huge difference in wiper operation and the bushing life. They aren't all as worn as those in my 67 that lived in Seattle for 40 years.
Just 1 tip... If you decide to service the pivots, first mark the bottom of the pot metal housing with a sharpie. Rotate them 180 degrees at reinstall. This moves the load to a less worn side of the bronze bushings inside.
 
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I thought '73 still had the solid linkage w/o the nylon bushings? I know my 75 has the dreaded nylon bushings, but IIRC my 73 had the older style linkage before they went to the nylon bushings (unless someone swapped in a later wiper transmission setup that uses the bushings...). I'd pull the wiper motor first, could be the nut holding the crank arm has indeed backed away and the spline on the wiper transmission arm is no longer in contact with the spline on the motor shaft. Nothing to lose by trying that first.
 
OK to type all this again... The primary linkage routes from wiper motor pitman arm to left/drivers side pivot. Secondary linkage routes from that pivot back across to right/passengers side pivot. 4 nylon bushings snapped into the linkage arms with steel ball studs snapped into their cupped sides.
You'll pull the instrument panel to access one and center radio/climate controller area to access the other. The factory service manual will help to get'er done.
The bushings can be purchased just about anywhere, HELP line at parts stores, dealerships, ebay, etc..
Now the tricky part... A lot of owners have replaced bushings that failed ( after 30+ years of use ), then their new bushings failed after a year or 2. First thing they do is blame aftermarket bushing quality. The truth is these pivot posts are worn adding much more work load at the bushings. This is especially true for that divers side pivot assembly since it transfers work from motor to other pivot.
I'll point out a difference in mfgrs... Try to buy a bushing for a Honda wiper linkage. In fact,,, go to Dorman catalog and look at wiper linkage bushings. There aint 10 different bushings available. Most mfgrs will offer nothing less than a complete wiper assembly. That's the linkage, bushings, pivot posts, all of it. They fix it once and done for another XX years. Their customers may pay more for a wiper fix but they don't ***** about a half assed fix for the same thing over and over.
We can't buy new pivot post assemblies for our A-body but we can service the OEM pivots while we are in there.
I did completely rebuild the wiper pivots in my 67 fish. I wont go into the how and all about what was involved. The basic grease and seal kits can make a huge difference in wiper operation and the bushing life. They aint all as worn as those in my 67 that lived in Seattle for 40 years.
Just 1 tip... If you decide to service the pivots, first mark the bottom of the pot metal housing with a sharpie. Rotate them 180 degrees at reinstall. This moves the load to a less worn side of the bronze bushings inside.
 
Wow! You sound "The Man" who invented repair manuals! Thank you for your time an expertise!
 
I thought '73 still had the solid linkage w/o the nylon bushings? I know my 75 has the dreaded nylon bushings, but IIRC my 73 had the older style linkage before they went to the nylon bushings (unless someone swapped in a later wiper transmission setup that uses the bushings...). I'd pull the wiper motor first, could be the nut holding the crank arm has indeed backed away and the spline on the wiper transmission arm is no longer in contact with the spline on the motor shaft. Nothing to lose by trying that first.
I will do that first and see what happens! As you said no worse off if it does not pan out! I'll let you know what I find! Thank you so much! What a cool forum!!
 
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