wires getting hot... why?

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stroker mike

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I got the dart running strong, the new cam is excellent, great power from about 2200 all the way to 6200 which is as far as I have pushed it. I had noticed without thinking that the amp meter had not been moving with the revs before we started the swap but the break in went smooth and everything was good till I drov4r home that evening I realized my battery was not charging. The alternator was fairly new when I bought the car and I don't understand why it gave out, but it did. So off to the junk yard and got a 60 amp from a van. The stock one was a 40 amp but there should be no problem, right? so I fired it up, and it's charging again, problem solved I thought, but every butt connector in line after the starter relay has begun to melt, and I've had to replace two. there ended up being some sulfation or corrosion inside the fusable link today for the ignition that had everything dead til I found it and moved the wire and then everything came on fine. But I know something is not ok here, why are my wires getting hot, and melting butt connectors, and why suddenly this sulfation on my fusable link? I don't have a manual for a 73 dart and have NO idea what to check or how... Please somebody help me, I bought a fire extinguisher just in case but I hope and pray I'll never need it...
 
Eliminate your ammeter,undo the 2 wires on the back and join together.Or you can search in the electrical forums,some good threads in there!Or you could private message a member here..Redfish,the guy is a Mopar electrical geniuse in my books.Good Luck and hope you don,t have to use the fire extinguisher!Sorry for the poor advise on the ammeter,drinking lastnite.Other guys will give better elec. advise!
 
Removing the ampmeter fro the circuit is not going to do anything to solve the melting connectors.

I would start looking for corroded connections (the bulkhead connector is a good place to start) and partial short circuits. Also verify the output of the alternator by placing a volt meter across the battery terminals with the engining running. Regardless of rpm you should measure 13.8 to 14.1 volts. If its reading high then the charging system is not working properly. Did you add any addtional electrical loads when you did the cam change.
 
I would go back over grounds, and quadruple check them.

Heat in wires is usually a result of resistance, so problems such as the corroded connections that DGC333 suggested, poor grounds, or too small gauge of wire, or wire that is very aged and brittle, can cause the stuff you are describing.
 
Bypass the ammeter, and run a new 8 gauge or bigger wire, with an inline fuse, from the alternator to the battery. Place the inline fuse close to the battery side.
 
The ammeter has nothing to do with it: This is either too much resistance, or a partial short circuit. First you need to identify which wires are getting hot. Inspect the connectors for corrosion and check if there is any abnormally low resistance to ground.
 
I agree with most everybody else. Check all the grounds and
all your connections. The guage should have no effect on it.
It might be something very simple.
 
aint nothing mad about you scientist. i'd say you are pretty close. dgc333 and i agree. not gonna help to d/c the gauge. bulkhead dirty, need cleaned and tightened up. fire no good uness in cylinder. if it starts to melt down don't freak. keep a 1/2 in your pocket and calmly unhook a battery lead. with the key off it should go out. but dont despair, it usually tells you where the problem is. good luck.
 
Yup,Mad is on the right track.

Any wires with cracked insulation need to go. They are beyond thier service life. Check your main ground wire from the battery. And the main wire with the fuseable link.
 
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