Wiring solutions

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Frodee

Frodee

Off center a bit
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Hi everyone on restoring my 73 scamp I am at a loss for figuring out wiring and how to plumb it all in so need your expert advice.
The plan is to keep the wires hidden under the hood and run in conduit through the fender well. Most of the wiring is in pretty good shape but would rather replace it all thinking that would be best.
Simple set up no A/C or power windows and plan on putting the battery in the trunk and the starter solenoid under the dash or in the trunk..
HEI distributor and gonna run electric fans on the radiator.
Painless Wiring is one option I'm considering and got in touch with Street Rod elec. waiting for a quote. Any ideas would be great.
 
There are generic harnesses that are just as good as Painless but cost a lot less. Had a 55 Chevy pick up a few years ago with a Painless harness and wasn't too impressed. Big bulky connectors any time I unhooked the battery it would blow the headlight fuse. Never did figure that one out.
 
bill richardson said:
There are generic harnesses that are just as good as Painless but cost a lot less. Had a 55 Chevy pick up a few years ago with a Painless harness and wasn't too impressed. Big bulky connectors any time I unhooked the battery it would blow the headlight fuse. Never did figure that one out.
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Good to know Bill not cheap for there harness. Thought about building my own and could do it I guess just don't trust my knowledge on wiring.
 
20191226_180550.jpg
deleted the bulk head idea never had much problem with mine but I'm sure it would be a big issue someday and looked crappy.
 
That looks so much better, my bulkhead fitting was ok but have dealt with problems with them from all makes over the years. You will like the blade fuses better also.
 
bill richardson said:
That looks so much better, my bulkhead fitting was ok but have dealt with problems with them from all makes over the years. You will like the blade fuses better also.
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Kinda had the same problem with my old Chevy's not to many Fords in my day but would guess the same.
Yea blade fuses are so much better I like the big ones I can see when there burned out the small ones I have to work hard to see them. lol
 
I can't see anything that's very small, also can't hold small things very good either. Sucks getting old but I will take every day above ground I can get.
 
American Autowire Classic Update for Mopar A Bodies
Not exactly cheap but very complete and integrates well with OE but still fully customisable to work with just about any mods. Instructions are detailed and complete for all 67-75 A Bodies

45573B7D-2C8B-4B62-8A18-1F9E6EEC359F.png
 
Mine is an H code 340 car but it's long gone. Has a warmed up 71 318 in it now. Will live with it unless I happen on the correct 340 that's cheap enough. Everything else on mine looks to be correct. Was ordered with stripe delete and plain jane interior with rubber floor mat instead of carpet but does have power steering and a/c. Might go with the stripe, I like the way they look.
 
bill richardson said:
Mine is an H code 340 car but it's long gone. Has a warmed up 71 318 in it now. Will live with it unless I happen on the correct 340 that's cheap enough. Everything else on mine looks to be correct. Was ordered with stripe delete and plain jane interior with rubber floor mat instead of carpet but does have power steering and a/c. Might go with the stripe, I like the way they look.
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Mine is just a 318 scamp but bought it with a 71 340 in it I sold the engine and lots of parts but still have some parts left so if ya need any parts let me know. Always ready to help out if I can just like many here most are good people.
 
Not sure about the quality. Maybe someone here has tried one? Hoping they might chime in. I’m likely to go aftermarket column too so the GM connectors work for me.
 
Regardless of the harness you buy, there is a certain amount of DIY that will be a PITA

Most these harnesses either come with "none" or GM style connectors for the turn signal switch, etc. You will have to obtain connector terminals for your original connectors, and some of them (my 67 TS switch) are not available

Most these harnesses do NOT come with provisions for the "extra wire" from the ignition switch for IGN2, nor the type of regulator wiring that Mopars use. Just an example, there is extra wire to be bought that won't match so to speak. Same is true of the backup/ neutral switch.

So far as conduit, I don't know how you will do that and deal with connectors. You going to terminate all the connectors after snaking the harness through? What happens if you need to pull it back out? I've considered stringing mine through the front frame horn.

Whatever you do consider GETTING RID of the bulkhead connector. If you look them over, you'll find it is EASY to fabricate a flate sheet metal blank to replace the connector, then install a large grommet / boot for entrance.

For DARN sure add at least 2 or 3 relays. Use one for the ignition circuit, 2 for hi/lo beams headlights, maybe one other. If you run the ground side of the ignition relay to an accessable point, you can create a simple anti theft circuit by hiding a simple switch "in plain sight" on the ground side of the relay coil.

Some of these fuse panels are not wired "what I'd like." I don't recall the details, for example, I like the wipers on the accessory circuit, not ignition. I have two harnesses, one was a "never installed opened" Painless. Seems to me the fuse panel feed is marginal.
 
67Dart273 said:
Regardless of the harness you buy, there is a certain amount of DIY that will be a PITA

Most these harnesses either come with "none" or GM style connectors for the turn signal switch, etc. You will have to obtain connector terminals for your original connectors, and some of them (my 67 TS switch) are not available

Most these harnesses do NOT come with provisions for the "extra wire" from the ignition switch for IGN2, nor the type of regulator wiring that Mopars use. Just an example, there is extra wire to be bought that won't match so to speak. Same is true of the backup/ neutral switch.

So far as conduit, I don't know how you will do that and deal with connectors. You going to terminate all the connectors after snaking the harness through? What happens if you need to pull it back out? I've considered stringing mine through the front frame horn.

Whatever you do consider GETTING RID of the bulkhead connector. If you look them over, you'll find it is EASY to fabricate a flate sheet metal blank to replace the connector, then install a large grommet / boot for entrance.

For DARN sure add at least 2 or 3 relays. Use one for the ignition circuit, 2 for hi/lo beams headlights, maybe one other. If you run the ground side of the ignition relay to an accessable point, you can create a simple anti theft circuit by hiding a simple switch "in plain sight" on the ground side of the relay coil.

Some of these fuse panels are not wired "what I'd like." I don't recall the details, for example, I like the wipers on the accessory circuit, not ignition. I have two harnesses, one was a "never installed opened" Painless. Seems to me the fuse panel feed is marginal.
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Good things to know as you been there thanks for the info that helps answer a lot of questions.
Bulk head connector is deleted and as far as the conduit, lights and horn wires only and realize if I have problems in the conduit will take some time to replace a wire so try my best to do it right the first time.
 
Been looking at American Auto wire and appears to be the best I found so far $1039 but looks complete. Any feed back would be great.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
.....and realize if I have problems in the conduit will take some time to replace a wire so try my best to do it right the first time.
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Best conduit I’ve found and used is Painless ClassicBraid Wire Wrap 70970 - split style so easy to apply and reapply with a nice, non plastic look.

6F102C65-108C-44B9-BDA4-28DAE2F3B7AD.jpeg
 
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