wont start, its gonna fight me the whole way

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1

1966 dart wagon

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well go figure my car is going to fight me all the way, i got the engine installed, then bad waterpump, leaking bypass hose and trans dip stick woooo not, anyways, well i got my waterpump back in, fixed the snaped off bolt and such now it wont fire. it turns over for ever, has fuel, spark (maybe weak), timing is right on, compression in #1 is 120...whats the deal? any sugestions.

well it started out being i couldnt get fuel pressure(nothing in filter) well my dad blew threw the line and sure as hell its fine now. well so now we got fuel going threw the carb into the motor. plugs are wet, they were somewhat black, i cleaned them they are all good looking and still nothing, im lost. we did have some starting problems about this time last year, there wasnt a electronic ign. volts reg installed (had old points one) so i swaped that and bam works good(well it did) motor run good when pulled, now all she does is crank. spark is going threw the plugs checked that, i checked my wires for the 3(total) wire alt, and volts reg, and stuff, still nothing? sugestions? :scratch: :scratch:
 
later on: i went and pullled a plug and did another spark check, it was strong then about every time it sparked it got weaker then NOTHING...wth :wack: also i tried swapping out the ballast resistor, changed nothing, I NEED HELP :scratch:
 
Swapping out sucks after a while...however, did you try a different coil.
 
Get yourself a multi meter and start checking. It's generally better in the long run than swapping out parts. Sounds like you have some sort of voltage issues affecting the ignition. The more you pump fuel thru it and it doesnt fire, the higher the probablility that things will not go well once it does fire. you can check for ht spark witht eh distributor laying on the intake and spinning it by hand. As opposed to overheating the starting circuit wiring and rubbing off all the critical cam lube...
 
where could i get a multimeter for about 25 bucks i don't wanna dump a crap load into one cause i know i wont use it much? i found a guide on how to check the coil, but how do i know which field is + and - on the alt, i have the 3 wire alt(bat, fld, and fld) any sugestions? i think it may be the volts reg, had the problem before, how can i check that?
 
I`ve seen multi-meters at Wal-mart, or there`s Radio Shack. If you have a 69 electrical system on your car then one of the field wires should go to 12 volts (field side of the voltage regulator)and the other to ground on the alternator.
 
got a volts meter, figured this out. with the key on, the + side of the coil has 7.05 volts :scratch: low correct.

didn't get anything from oil - to +, i didn't get time to disconnect all the wires gotta go to work soon, i have another coil it tested from - to where the coil wire plugs(middle big plug) 10.35 ohms

the ballast resistor got pretty hot, and i got 0 ohms threw it with the wires connected and disconnect. i'll get more updates later, any thoughts so far :scratch: :scratch:
o and those were with the key on
 
Suspect the ballast resistor and/or the starter relay. You should be getting about 9 at the coil running, and a full 12 cranking. Bypass the resistor by building a 12 AWG wire with male spade connectors and connecting the two resistor wires directly together with it. You can run 12v to the coil that way for a while, although it will shorten points life a little.
 
C130 Chief said:
Suspect the ballast resistor and/or the starter relay. You should be getting about 9 at the coil running, and a full 12 cranking. Bypass the resistor by building a 12 AWG wire with male spade connectors and connecting the two resistor wires directly together with it. You can run 12v to the coil that way for a while, although it will shorten points life a little.
Click to expand...
it now has electronic ign, so by by passing the ballist resistor the coil will get more power. whats a 12 awg wire? that is just the bypass wire to connect the ballist wires right? i'll see what i can do when i get home, thanks for the tip
 
Agree with above. Do yourself a favor and switch to electronic ignition. You should install an electronic voltage regulator as well ($26). Get the Mopar Performance kit and save yourself some money and replacement costs. Better yet go to FBO (4secondsflat.com) and get his complete kit http://4secondsflat.com/a688specs.html Better than anything you would get from Summit or Jegs.
 
i by passed the ign switch, got higher voltage at coil then, still no firing up. plugs are wet as hell, but clean im letting it all air out for the night. any thoughts :-| :scratch: man this is lame
 
Sometimes when plugs get washed down they will not fire correctly . You may need to put in new plugs .Is no. 1 compression timed to fire correctly ?
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What kind of shape is the dist cap in? look inside and scrape off all the white looking flake's of all 8 pick ups and if you see any fine cracks that will make the ignition fire anywhere.. Just a thought.
Hope you get this behind you.
 
Start again with a fresh mind .. Set #1 on TDC.. Check your distributor rotor pointing at #1 wire. If the plugs are getting spark/gas at all it shoud give a sign of life.
 
check cap (also was new last summer) all of my new stuff has a max of say 20 miles on all of it, cap is good, all contacts are nice, the rotor looked a little dirty i scratched it off a lil to give a better contact. timing is right on, on comp of #1 rotor is dead on #1. i got some new plugs i'll try em tomorrow after work
 
It sort of sounds like a timing thing ,if you`ve got spark, fuel, and compression, then maybe all of these things are just not happening when they`re supposed to. I would check once more to make sure that your distributor drive is oriented towards the proper intake bolt and that #1 cylinder is on it`s compression stroke at TDC. Check to see that there is lash in both valves. You should be able to wiggle the rockers and feel if they`re loose. I would start there because with all the elements in place you should get at least one cylinder to fire if all else checks out.
 
One last thing no one mentioned yet. Charge your battery.
Another thing, if you have a test light, touch it to the small terminals of the coil with ignition on, Should light on 1 terminal at least depending on where the distributor is stopped at. Then have someone turn it over with you still touching the terminals, one at a time. One should blink, and the other should be on constant. Let us hear back what you find.
 
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