Would a hood scoop help my problem?

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Looks good. I never gave any thought to fire retardant foam when I did my setup. I went to Home Depot and bought foam and used it. My only thought was to stop sucking hot air into the engine.
 
Looks good. I never gave any thought to fire retardant foam when I did my setup. I went to Home Depot and bought foam and used it. My only thought was to stop sucking hot air into the engine.

I sent a email to a foam place that said: THEY HAVE EVERY KIND OF FOAM!!!
I got a response back today: I'm sorry, we do not have any foam of that type. :rofl: Good thing i have already bought some foam.
 
If I were doing it again I still would not go crazy looking for fire retardant or fire proof foam. Its not like you're building a car out of it, it's just not that much flammable material to worry about as far as I'm concerned. When it comes to fire prevention in my cars, I put lots of time into looking for and correcting things that can start a fire in the first place. To me the biggest fire starters on hot rods and race cars are fuel system components, trans cooler lines and the cooler its self and anything than can cause an engine oil leak. I spend extra time and money on those items and always try and route all the plumbing as far out of harms way as possible. Fuel lines go on outside of frame rails, trans lines are kept away from headers and exhaust, etc, and I use rubber hose only to connect two hard lines together plus I use at least double clamps. The other item I always have is a fire extinguisher. One other thing I almost forgot, NEVER use plastic line for an oil pressure gauge. I witnessed a fire caused by that on a friends car when the plastic line was too close to the header and melted resulting in oil spewing all over the header and POOF>>>FIRE!!! Use copper line for that.
 
you can get braided line in various lengths from dirt track shops, or order your own custom. Way better than copper or the aforementioned "nylon" line.
 
yeah, i'm not to worried about it. foam is cheap! just don't like it when it gets down the carb!!!
Got to get the project done before i worry about fire "retard" foam. :realcrazy: :D
 
yeah, i'm not to worried about it. foam is cheap! just don't like it when it gets down the carb!!!
Got to get the project done before i worry about fire "retard" foam. :realcrazy: :D[/QUOTE

When I made my air box I just used home A/C foam and never had a problem with it
 
Wow! I was just going to scotch brite the hood, primer and paint it a flat black and call it a day. just the flat black primer look like ****. I knew the hood wasn't perfect, but.
all you body men out there, take it easy on me, not a body man, had no intention to go this far. There were sand scratched that looked like they used a big angle head grinder or more like a cut of wheel on it. The original color was red then orange and two thirds of the hood was sprayed this bumpy silver-ish color. that stuff took 60 grit to knock off all the bumps.(look like most of the hood was covered in mosquito bites)
Put 4 rattle can of primer on the hood between the under side and the top. sanded most of that back off trying to get the sand scratches(gouges) down, and that silver stuff. I'm on my third day on this stuff. Pick up some spot putty to fill in all the paint chips and sand scratched that i didn't want to sand thru to the metal. It says it take 20-30
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minutes to dry. day 3 still sanding........................
 
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O yeah!
Will have the parts made for the fresh air under the hood made up tomorrow. When with a simpler design.
 
Its 50% better than it was, and you can see that i rattled can it. but it will have to do. On to fresh air!!!
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Went with a little bit less complicated base for the under side of the hood.
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had a 20" alu ring build with a 11" center hole cut that i attached to the bottom of my air filter base. Then cut and glued some foam on it.

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Then installed hood.
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Now i have to wait until July 9th to see if it was all worth it.

Just a interesting note:
My flat hood weighted 60 pound even. The twin scoop hood weighed 78 pounds. So weight wise, it slowed me down by .0015. Lest hope my gains are way better then my losses.:D
 
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thanks.
The cool thing is that i still have about 1-1/2" between the air cleaner and the roof. Which means that i can put my LD 340 manifold back on, without that super low profile bug eye filter. That may wait for next year.
 
Well here is the skinny!!!
Last race my best to worse et was [email protected] mph to a [email protected] sixtys were 1.887/1.908
This month with the adj altitude 1000 feet higher 9721-9634 foot all day.
[email protected] MPH to a worse of [email protected] sixtys about the same in the 1.885-1.912
The air at a 1000 foot higher, and only down by .08/ on my best run........I think my fresh air experiment was a success!!
Looking to find some more HP and itching to break into the the 7s. i drop my exh (just doing this never helped my et) and installing my header extensions that i had made up awhile ago but hadn't used yet. My first run i ran a [email protected] by the end of the day i pulled of a 8.099.
some of my inconsistence has to do with my starting line routine(how hard i stall it at the line)
Determined to try for that 7.99 with a 9 LOL. I stalled it up as much as it would hole on the line, and launched the car. Just past the tree something when thump and my throttle stuck, momentarily.:wtf: I pulled to the side of the track, thinking that i had broke my transmission. No oil on the track. Yup i knew what i had done. left the hood open, started the car, put it in gear and started to stall it up. the motor lifted off of it motor mount. ****! Drove it back to the trailer and loaded it up.
Time for some better motor mounts!!!!!
Once again, a great day of racing!:D
 
Try launching from an idle?9
Before i changed my slicks. That was the only way to not spin off the line.
I had it stalled up as much as it would, trying to break into the 7s.
The problem with leaving at a idle is your reactions. you have to leave a lot sooner to cut a light.
 
I use a 3x17 round cake pan. Cut the bottom out and riveted to a 1 1/2" drop base open filter bottom. I had some extra window channel rubber to seal to the hood. K&N 14x4 and summit filter top. I have a 16" round hole in my hood and use a dual snorkel scoop.
Did you notice an improvement? I'm running the same scoop and have been thinking about it...well, I really wanna do it, just don't k own if its worth the while, or would choke performance
 
Did you notice an improvement? I'm running the same scoop and have been thinking about it...well, I really wanna do it, just don't k own if its worth the while, or would choke performance
Ambient air is always better than underhood heated air.
 
No hood scoop as of yet, but yes would seal it up.
My water pump turns on at 160 and cooling fans turn on at 180.
Wouldn't be two hard to re rig up my full throttle switch to kill my fans instead of my alt like i had it before.

Just can't decide if i should mess with killing the fans at full throttle, or just sealing the carb from the radiator/header heat?

Seal it , dam sure cant hurt !!
 
If you have a fresh are system (hood scoop exc.) and you don't seal it from the hot under hood air. your waste your time.
 
Did you notice an improvement? I'm running the same scoop and have been thinking about it...well, I really wanna do it, just don't k own if its worth the while, or would choke performance
I notice improvement, the ET consistence was the key for me.
Between rounds you can leave your hood open to get the hot air out(some what) But when you start going rounds, there was not enough time to get it cooled down.
Makes it hard when you ET swings all over the place. The hood scoop made a HUG difference on this.
 
Hot lapping will also put heat in the transmission. Fluid gets thinner, converter efficiency goes down.
 
I understand the search for the elusive tenth. I have a buddy that was fanatical about it. He heated and scraped the undercoat of his car , it was only 30 lbs but he was pleased . He also had some spark plugs made that accepted another 5cc of volume times 8, 40cc.
He notion on the alternator was that it didn’t really have much effect. With all your electronics it’s a different story.
 
Of course I run no hood at all at first because of the dual quad tunnel ram. And now I think about a fiberglass hood or something but I've grown used to being able to see my motor in between passes and visualize anything being wrong.
Unless a radiator hose breaks or a bad oil spray that covers your windshield...that could cause issues
 
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