Would like more amps...

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j par

j par

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I would like to run more electrical stuff on the car and was wondering how more amps works? Likely I have a 60 amp alternator now with the traditional voltage regulator. I was thinking 80 amps or even a hundred on a one wire. if I wanted to do a hundred amps would I just put a one wire alternator on and run that wire to the positive of the battery.. no problemo?..
I think right now I have one fat wire coming from the positive of the battery to my control switches which run the six Al and all of my accessories. I believe I have a wire that comes off the starter the comes in and runs the Factory fuse box and runs the headlights taillights blinkers and Horn and actually the starter relay..
Thank you for anybody and everybody's help and experience..
 
j par said:
I would like to run more electrical stuff on the car and was wondering how more amps works? Likely I have a 60 amp alternator now with the traditional voltage regulator. I was thinking 80 amps or even a hundred on a one wire. if I wanted to do a hundred amps would I just put a one wire alternator on and run that wire to the positive of the battery.. no problemo?..
I think right now I have one fat wire coming from the positive of the battery to my control switches which run the six Al and all of my accessories. I believe I have a wire that comes off the starter the comes in and runs the Factory fuse box and runs the headlights taillights blinkers and Horn and actually the starter relay..
Thank you for anybody and everybody's help and experience..
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I am far from an expert, but a msd , no ballast resister , and a one wire 100 to 130 amp would be a vast improvement , handle anything , but would need some wiring updates, like getting rid of the firewall connections to start with.
see above post^^^^^^^^^^^^I run a 130 amp gm alternator on mine , will handle anything.
 
You have to look at the gage diameter of the alternator output wire x the run length from the alternator to the battery. Yes bypass the bulkhead connector. I would recommend marine grade copper wire, and make a fusable link for at the battery end. You can buy fusable link wire in bulk from pico wiring products and make your own fusible links. Make up a few extras to keep in your glovebox. Typically they should be 6" long, and 2 sizes smaller in gage than the wire circuit they are protecting. Stock older mopar alternator output wire is typically #12 or #10 gage. You can probably go with a #8 gage with good ring terminal crimp and solder ends and be just fine.
 
moparmat2000 said:
You have to look at the gage diameter of the alternator output wire x the run length from the alternator to the battery. Yes bypass the bulkhead connector. I would recommend marine grade copper wire, and make a fusable link for at the battery end. You can buy fusable link wire in bulk from pico wiring products and make your own fusible links. Make up a few extras to keep in your glovebox. Typically they should be 6" long, and 2 sizes smaller in gage than the wire circuit they are protecting. Stock older mopar alternator output wire is typically #12 or #10 gage. You can probably go with a #8 gage with good ring terminal crimp and solder ends and be just fine.
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It's funny you say that because that's exactly what I have now. I have a 10 gauge wire running directly from the alternator all the way to the positive on my cut off switch in the trunk. With a fusible link on the end of it..
In the picture it's the black wire running along with the red battery cable into the green fusible link.
IMG_20200324_143456.jpg
 
It's the only wire going to the battery side of the cutoff switch. All my other wires either run off of the non battery side of the cutoff switch or off the end of the starter which is connected to the red cable...
 
if you buy your new alternator from powermaster, it will include an instruction sheet on what size wire is needed depending on the length of the run
 
I put a single wire alternator on my Duster in 2010 and have no issues with it, I wired it to the starter solenoid hot post no issues.
I also bypassed the amp gauge on the dash.
The alternator I bought was built in a mopar case, so all the brackets aligned fine.
 
I really dont know if you can do the starter run and lower it...that's why I simply posted thier recommendations
 
sireland67 said:
I put a single wire alternator on my Duster in 2010 and have no issues with it, I wired it to the starter solenoid hot post no issues.
I also bypassed the amp gauge on the dash.
The alternator I bought was built in a mopar case, so all the brackets aligned fine.
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Yes I would absolutely get one in the Mopar configuration...
 
I cant remember if it is a powermaster or summit brand.
I liked it so well I bought another one for my engine start stand, it is has already been robbed for my cuda.
 
I used a mini denso for Chevy application and made my brackets. Made a spacer from threaded black pipe. Cut the ends off and trued them up with a lathe at work. Will do the same w sonny's car, since I kept the templates I made to make mine. I also made a small stainless steel bracket off battery positive cable that's threaded for a bolt. And have my 6" long fusable link attached to that and bolted to the end of the 8 gage alternator cable. I made those up with ring terminals and shrink tubing.

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moparmat2000 said:
I used a mini denso for Chevy application and made my brackets. Made a spacer from threaded black pipe. Cut the ends off and tried them with a lathe at work. Will do the same w sonny's car, since I kept the templates I made to make mine. I also made a small stainless steel bracket off battery positive cable that's threaded for a bolt. And have my 6" long fusable link attached to that and bolted to the end of the 8 gage alternator cable. I made those up with ring terminals and shrink tubing.

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Oh man I do like a budget-minded alternative!...
 
Mini denso I have has output wire and case ground, but has 2 spades in the back labelled I and L. Its internally regulated, so run your one ignition switched lead to the I terminal, disconnect your firewall voltage regulator and connect those 2 wires together. Second wire is an indicator light. Really easy modification to add a fault lamp. Inside the car off ignition switch hot add the light, then run the wire to the L terminal in the denso alternator.

The way the circuit works is when you turn the key, the alt light comes on. When you start the car and its generating power, the L circuit inside the alternator disconnects and the light goes out. If theres a fault and the alternator is not outputting then the L circuit inside the alternator reconnects to ground and turns the light on.

I converted my rallye gage ammeter to volts with a sun volt gage, and added an alternator fault light to the gage. You can see the light getting its power off the + side of the gage, and the black wire is the feed to the L terminal on the alternator. I used a 12V high bright red LED and a #50 drill so when the light is off it's not noticable

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Yep made this with fiberglass, resin, 16 gage sheet steel, rivets, JB weld, and a cotton Tee shirt to custom fit an aluminum radiator. I kept the sheetmetal templates, and fiberglass buck to make one for my kids car.

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Is this the car your Speedmaster heads are going on? If so fitment gets tight. I can shoot you some pics of the 60amp Denso on my 340 with Speedmaster heads.
 
Yes it is. Send me a pic. The 318 i am using as a mock up is getting a mild rebuild then going into my kids car, so if I have to reinvent these for a set of speed masters i will do that. Got my block and rotating assy back from the machine shop. Have not had time to mess with it. It's on the engine stand, sprayed down with LPS-3 , wrapped in a trash bag and sitting.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Yes it is. Send me a pic. The 318 i am using as a mock up is getting a mild rebuild then going into my kids car, so if I have to reinvent these for a set of speed masters i will do that. Got my block and rotating assy back from the machine shop. Have not had time to mess with it. It's one the stand, sprayed down with LPS-3 , wrapped in a trash bag and sitting.
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So your running Speedmaster heads too?
 
dano said:
Is this the car your Speedmaster heads are going on? If so fitment gets tight. I can shoot you some pics of the 60amp Denso on my 340 with Speedmaster heads.
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I'm totally shocked we haven't met since we live so damn close quite honestly...
 
j par said:
I'm totally shocked we haven't met since we live so damn close quite honestly...
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I hide really well for a tall fat guy.

Here are some pics. I have CVF Brackets I made work (basically bolt the bottom tensioner to the Denso). The rear Denso cover is held on with studs and nuts, the most inboard one just clears by about 1/32". The others are outside of the head. I could have use a bit shorter belt.

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