I'm going to pick everyones brain on the ignition as I'm doing an HEi and it's a WR 95 Ron Francis harness. No ECU no ballast resistor Mopar ignition switch. I know or think blue ign1 is run yellow is start black assessory and red power brown is ign2. I got factory diagram and service manual. But I'm second guessing with this GM style harness. My wiring skills are ok I'm no expert for sure. Been to long.
WR 95 Ron Francis harness 74 Dart sport
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I'ts impossible to read those. Can you post a line to download them, or figure a way to post them higher rez?
Something Francis doesn't cover is the unique Mopar ignition switch. IGN1 "run" (blue) goes DEAD with the key twisted to start. Normally the IGN2 (usually brown) is the ballast resistor bypass and the key switch shoots full 12V to the coil+. So you need to connect those two together and use that for your "run" line
BUT FURTHER and this has nothing to do with Francis. Often the blue "run" line suffers voltage drop. Some of this is the bulkhead connector--which I guess you've eliminated, and part of it is the ammeter circuit which you may have eliminated. But SOME of it is the ignition switch and connector Drop on this line cases the VR to OVER charge because the VR IGN terminal is receiveing reduced voltage, and ramps up the regulator to compensate
Cut loos the loads off the blue line in the engine bay. Use the key end of the blue to trigger a Bosch relay, feed the relay off the starter relay "big stud" through a fuse/ breaker, and connect the engine bay end of the blue to the load contact on the relay. You can also put a "not" obvious switch in the relay coil line to serve as a simple anti theft
Something Francis doesn't cover is the unique Mopar ignition switch. IGN1 "run" (blue) goes DEAD with the key twisted to start. Normally the IGN2 (usually brown) is the ballast resistor bypass and the key switch shoots full 12V to the coil+. So you need to connect those two together and use that for your "run" line
BUT FURTHER and this has nothing to do with Francis. Often the blue "run" line suffers voltage drop. Some of this is the bulkhead connector--which I guess you've eliminated, and part of it is the ammeter circuit which you may have eliminated. But SOME of it is the ignition switch and connector Drop on this line cases the VR to OVER charge because the VR IGN terminal is receiveing reduced voltage, and ramps up the regulator to compensate
Cut loos the loads off the blue line in the engine bay. Use the key end of the blue to trigger a Bosch relay, feed the relay off the starter relay "big stud" through a fuse/ breaker, and connect the engine bay end of the blue to the load contact on the relay. You can also put a "not" obvious switch in the relay coil line to serve as a simple anti theft
I will try and draw out a diagram I think I'm on the same page with you thus far. Yes no amp meter no ballast now. I get the blue and brown from ignition switch directly to coil thanks for validation. Why the Bosch relay is that for the uneven voltage or needed to force the engine to get start trigger? I thought yellow did that?
Put some better pictures up anyone using this kit here is the diagram or thinking about it's nice stuff just first time doing this on a car like this I'm triple and double checking. Yes I have the big huge 11 x 17 Mopar as well. It's matching up with GM new harness that can be confusing.
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