wtb: Driveshaft for 65 dart 273 4sp 8.75 trunion

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stroker402

1968 dart GTS convertible
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I'm switching out my 7.25 rearend for a 8.75 in 65 dartcharger 273 4sp.
Need a trunion style driveshaft for a 8.75 rear end.. trunion style was only used on the 64 -65 early abody. or if someone has all ready converted it over to a better style front u-joint. ..I do not have any mesurements of that driveshaft length for the 8.75 rearend.
I think 65-65 barracuda had the same wheelbase as the dart too >>> that driveshaft will probally work also.

or does anyone know if the two driveshafts are the same length for 7.25 and 8.75? v-8 cars 4 sp.
Let me see what you all have . Thanks !
 
I believe that you need to shorten a 7 1/4 driveshaft about 2" to make it fit with an 8 3/4". We usually took them to a driveline shop to have shortened and balanced.

From 904 to 727 also needs to take out another approx 2". I don't know about 4 speeds.
 
Well hell you need to actually measure it. But I would not put a ball and trunnion under there for love or money. I don't have the info at my fingertips, but there is hardware available to eliminate it, that is, a slip type yoke on the shaft more like a 4x4 front shaft, which will still bolt to your factory transmission flange
 
Well hell you need to actually measure it. But I would not put a ball and trunnion under there for love or money. I don't have the info at my fingertips, but there is hardware available to eliminate it, that is, a slip type yoke on the shaft more like a 4x4 front shaft, which will still bolt to your factory transmission flange

Yes ... I know exactly what you are talking about that 4x4 driveshaft .. My 1994 toyota 4x4 has that flange that should bolt to my trans .. I see it done to a 65 red dart sedan that was up on ebay not too long ago.

looked pretty durable.
I will have to search for a toyota 4x4 driveshaft then ...

anyone have one ?
 
I would not put a ball and trunnion under there for love or money.
Why would you steer away from the ball and trunnion? They are a little harder to get parts for but they held up behind a lot of 413s, wedges and Hemis on the strip. I've had a ball and trunnion behind over 400Hp and a 4spd for quite a few years and it's still holding up. If Passon ever sells a five speed I'm hoping to be upgrading to a more modern front u-joint system but personnally don't think the old ball and trunnion is all that bad......
I had to shorten mine approximately 2" for a 7-1/4 to 8-3/4 swap but measure to be sure.
 
Why would you steer away from the ball and trunnion? They are a little harder to get parts for but they held up behind a lot of 413s, wedges and Hemis on the strip. I've had a ball and trunnion behind over 400Hp and a 4spd for quite a few years and it's still holding up. If Passon ever sells a five speed I'm hoping to be upgrading to a more modern front u-joint system but personnally don't think the old ball and trunnion is all that bad......
I had to shorten mine approximately 2" for a 7-1/4 to 8-3/4 swap but measure to be sure.
Thanks for the information,You just resolved my issue on mu 63 Dart,I am putting a 8 3/4 in...I will just get it shortened.
Martin
P.S. Thanks for link also,it was a good read.
 
I have one that was rebuilt 25 years ago and is packaged up ready to go.
It was out of a 65 4-door b-body with a 4-speed and 8.75 rear.
What length do you need.
You could shorten it to fit what you need.

PM me for more info.
 
Here is what I have it includes the front yoke.


1000344sf.jpg
 
Why would you steer away from the ball and trunnion? They are a little harder to get parts for but they held up behind a lot of 413s, wedges and Hemis on the strip. I've had a ball and trunnion behind over 400Hp and a 4spd for quite a few years and it's still holding up. If Passon ever sells a five speed I'm hoping to be upgrading to a more modern front u-joint system but personnally don't think the old ball and trunnion is all that bad......
I had to shorten mine approximately 2" for a 7-1/4 to 8-3/4 swap but measure to be sure.

I would think if they run the trunnion with 413 and wedge cars back in the day they should hold up fine !

think I will just shorten or lengthen which ever for my 65 dartcharger ..
 

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I have one that was rebuilt 25 years ago and is packaged up ready to go.
It was out of a 65 4-door b-body with a 4-speed and 8.75 rear.
What length do you need.
You could shorten it to fit what you need.

PM me for more info.

do not have the 8.75 in the dart yet.. so I don't have any measurements yet. but .......... If your DS came out of a 65 bbody, it will be a few inches longer Right ?
 
Thanks for the information,You just resolved my issue on mu 63 Dart,I am putting a 8 3/4 in...I will just get it shortened.
Martin
P.S. Thanks for link also,it was a good read.


That sounds like the easiest way to do it.
rather than buying the spicer unit .
 
The problem with ball and trunnion is not strength per se, it's the present day COST if you need parts for the things. Since you need to spend money getting a shaft made/ shortened, it's silly to put money into one of 'em.

Trucks were once chain drive. I don't think you see many anymore. There are better ways to do things.

2dano75.jpg


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwfbxT3JvXU&feature=related"]1959 Kenworth Chain Drive - YouTube[/ame]
 
Yes the one I have should be longer, that is why I have a pic with the tape measure besided the shaft.
It should be the longest shaft made, and the tubing is all the same diamater so cutting it down would be no issue.
The ball and trunion uint was rebuilt and it has less than 10K miles on it.
 
I found two driveshaft businesses here in milwaukee that can do this conversion . Thanks ALL !
 
I found two driveshaft businesses here in milwaukee that can do this conversion . Thanks ALL !

I had the conversion done to my drive shaft and parts and labor ran about $355. A little pricey since I thought that I could just get it shortened and rebalanced. The shop I took mine to said they didnt have the correct fixture to balance the ds with the ball and trunion joint so my only option was to do the conversion the the slip joint in the shaft.

Good luck.
 
I had the conversion done to my drive shaft and parts and labor ran about $355. A little pricey since I thought that I could just get it shortened and rebalanced. The shop I took mine to said they didnt have the correct fixture to balance the ds with the ball and trunion joint so my only option was to do the conversion the the slip joint in the shaft.

Good luck.

That's a good point !! I thought it would be about that much to convert.. hummmmmm..
 
The slip yoke and spline can be salvaged from a 70 or 80s 4wd pickup front driveline in a wrecking yard if you can find one with 2-1/2" tubing. Might be able to save a few bucks there. Just check it carefully as they had a tendancy to wear and wobble on higher mileage pickups.
 
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